CU care tips please

[81AirCooled]

Hi everyone, at long last I'm due to pick up my 29 year old T25 with CU engine next week and plan to spend a week in Italy the following weekend which is a 700-800km round trip at planned cruising speed 50-60 mph. I've read the Wiki but could do with a few pointers to hopefully see us get there and back in one piece.

It passed it's MOT in April but I haven't seen the report yet so don't know if there were any minor issues but can I assume the fuel lines are okay?
Starter motor is new
Air filter is new
Oil and filter were apparantly changed before MOT but I'm not 100% certain
Fan belt change last change unknown.

Will I be alright checking the fan belt for wear and taking spares? Do you think I can get away with not changing the oil assuming it's not minging?

Anything else I need to be aware of before setting off?

Thanks

[paul66beetle]

Why not carry out a basic service anyway for peace of mind. Parts are cheap enough from your usual suppliers ie (GSF German Swedish French) etc. Remember Mineral Oil degrades so its worth doing a change for what its worth.

With any long trip its always worth carrying a few spares. Just my thoughts.

[Gunslinger]

If I was collecting a van one week and taking it to Italy the next I would certainly be wanting to drop the oil and replace the filter (I do mine every 3k). It'll cost you about £20.00 and take you 15 mins. I'd replace the plugs (Bosch W8CC) and clean and regap (.6mm) the old ones to keep as spares. I'd check the dizzy cap and rotor and carry spares, same with the leads and carry at least one lead (longest) and HT lead as bare minimum. I carry a lot more spares but then I'm a pessimist. I'd also check and replace the small fuel filter under the drivers side sill. Should be visible through a space in the chassis cover. There is a section in the wiki detailing suggested spares and tools to take.

[andisnewsyncro]

I agree. I'd service it thoroughly before even thinking of going anywhere. Use quality parts and proper oil. It may have passed an MOT in April but what's it been doing since? Put another way a third of its MOT has expired Check the tyres over carefully, age and condition. There's always going to be something that needs doing to keep an old vehicle safe, reliable and roadworthy. Perhaps a slightly less adventurous trip for a first excursion to check for any teething problems. Make sure your gas install and your electrics are working before you set off too.

[paul66beetle]

... but can I assume the fuel lines are okay?
..Anything else I need to be aware of before setting off?

Never assume anything, fuel lines perish with age and its worth checking them all out and replacing. Lots of fires are down to bad fuel lines.

Buy a Fire Extinguisher for the van.

[81AirCooled]

... but can I assume the fuel lines are okay?
..Anything else I need to be aware of before setting off?

Never assume anything, fuel lines perish with age and its worth checking them all out and replacing. Lots of fires are down to bad fuel lines.

Buy a Fire Extinguisher for the van.

Thanks for all the answers , there's lots more to do than I'd hoped for. I think the previous owner was reasonably careful with the fuel lines as he has a fire extinguisher installed by the drivers seat. I also have another I can take along with us. MOT here in Germany is only due once every 2 years but whether than makes it more or less thorough than in the UK I've no idea, and the vehicle has been off the road since May or June but I may just take it down the garage and ask they check the fuel lines and change the oil for good measure.

[paul66beetle]

[.... the vehicle has been off the road since May or June but I may just take it down the garage and ask they check the fuel lines and change the oil for good measure.

Mine was off the road for about 10 years!! Needless to say fuel lines & tyres had perished.

Good luck with the trip, why take it down to a garage? These are things you can check & do yourself, you will save a fortune and also become familar with the engine. This will help you when you go on any trips as you will then know what you are looking at.

Buy a cheap Haynes manual.

[richnewton]

all great advice there, definately change the oil and filter for what it costs
take it steady and have fun

[paul66beetle]

..I'd replace the plugs (Bosch W8CC) and clean and regap (.6mm) the old ones to keep as spares.

Aren't they W7CC's. I've worked from the following table for CU engine it specifies W7CC and for the Aircooled CT/CZ engines W8CC?

"2.0 litre CU/CJ/CV engine: Bosch W7CC or equivalent

1.2,1.3,1.5,1.6 litre D/F/AB/AR/H/B/AS/AD/AJ etc: Bosch W8AC or equivalent

1.6 litre CT/CZ engine: Bosch W8CC or equivalent

1.6 litre ACD engine: Bosch W8DTC, Beru UX79 or equivalent"

[Gunslinger]

Mmmm interesting. I use W8CC and they seem ok, doesnt mean they are right though of course. Maybe I should do a little more research

[paul66beetle]

A quick check on JK seems to point to W7CC, I'm off to the shop to buy some.

http://www.justkampers.com/shop/type_25 ... ug-j10118/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Gunslinger]

GSF list them as W8CC

T1/T2 1.2-1.6 >79 W8AC 905AA2450 £1.50
T2/T25 1.7-2.0 >82 W8CC 905AA2470 £1.65

[fullsunian]

Mmm brave man...If it were me I would be giving a very good service at the very least, including all the above and a good brake service. Then I would run it around local till I got used to it and understood it better. You have to remember that its a 29 year old van. Start building up a good collection of spares that stay in the van all the time, I even keep a dizzy and ignition pack in mine...but hay thats just me..a mechanic lol
Good luck

[paul66beetle]

Seems both are acceptable..

"The stock plug is either a Bosch W7CC or W8CC plug (aka Bosch Super with copper electrode). The former is recommended for motorway usage, hot weather and FI while the latter is suitable for all year round plug use and idling in heavy traffic. Neither of these plugs have a protruded nose or multiple electrodes. You might be tempted to purchase platinum plugs or buy a plug with multiple electrodes but you'd be throwing your money away."

Its to do with the temperature and the ability to burn off deposits/strength of core.

The most common bus spark plugs is Bosch Super W8CC copper plugs. What plug you use depends on the climate where you live: use W8CC then switch to W7CC when the ambient temperatures are high.

If you do an excessive amount of motorway driving it's also recommended to switch to the cooler W7CC plug. When should you switch from one to the other?

VW's specs:
Plug Stock# Engine Application Temperature NGK equivalent
W8CC 7504 Type 4 bus engine carbs up to 25C B5ES
W7CC 7598 Type 4 bus engine carbs above 25C B6ES
W8CC0 n/a Type 4 bus engine L-Jet up to 25C n/a
W7CC0 n/a Type 4 bus engine L-Jet above 25C n/a

Here's an easy way to remember which plug to use: when it's consistently 77F outside or warmer, switch to W7CC.

The plugs with a "0" after the designator code are long life versions of the standard plugs. They are double the price, hard to find and don't last more than 2x as long so you don't need to search them out: just use regular versions.

[Gunslinger]

Here's an easy way to remember which plug to use: when it's consistently 77F outside or warmer, switch to W7CC.

I'll be sticking to the W8CC then, yes, even this close to the equator in tropical Bedfordshire