Syncro 4&4 Discussion and Q&A last answered over 2 years ago.
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Trying to replace the front discs... I thought they just fitted over the studs and you could get them off relatively easily ? ( after removing the screw ).
I've just tried everything to get the 1st disc off the hub and I can't shift it at all - that includes using a puller and breaking the ring on the disc in two places....
No John they tend to 'rust weld' themselves to the hub - plenty of heat helps!
80-90: 1053
Syncronauts: 15
T3 Syncro DOKA (makeover nearly finished)
T4 Syncro LWB Panel Van - now departed
T3 Syncro SIKA - deciding whether it's for the chop or worth saving
Second what Syncrodoug says. My near side disc on my Doka had rusted on so badly that I had to use a hydraulic puller, oxy-acetylene and had to smash the living daylights out of the disc. I broke off so many pieces of disc, it was untrue. Beware about using a puller on cast iron discs. When the disc shatters the pieces fly off at super-sonic speed. Very easy to lose an eye...
In all, it took nearly three hours to take one disc off! And that's with good facilities. When they 'grow' on badly, they are almost fused together. A right pain! By contrast, when I changed the other side I expected the same hassle, but it literally fell off in seconds. Strange...
1989 RHD Tristar Syncro
My other ride is a 572 hp DG Wasserboxer powered Oval...
I did think of heat, but that will bu**er up the bearings, which is what I dont want to do. Also I don't have anything that gets that hot, just a small blowtorch....
Not too clever setting fire to your syncro in the front drive either.
So, plan C is to try and cut away some of the material with the angle grinder and see how that goes. This was supposed to be an easy job for Sunday, just change the discs & pads and put on the nice shiney backplates and CV protecters that I got got from brickwerks
I put on new backplates a month ago and luckily the discs came off easily, it was the bolts securing the splash plates that were well rusted in. soaked them in plus gas and tapped them round with a sharp chisel.
remove screws, refit wheels, slack nuts half a turn, go for a low speed drive on a private road and try stabbing the brake pedal???????????????
It works for stuck alloys!!
Take a hefty steel drift, the wider the better, place it between the studs and welly the living daylights out of it. Keep moving it around the hub and continue until your arm goes numb ( ), soak in plus gas and go for a cuppa. Come back after ten minutes and tonk it again at which point it should come free - well it did for me. Don't forget to protect you eyes.
), soak in plus gas and go for a cuppa. Come back after ten minutes and tonk it again at which point it should come free - well it did for me. Don't forget to protect you eyes.