guage stripdown

[Poseidon]

Hi, I'm having some problems with the instrument cluster in my van, I was suffering from the buzzer of doom, which turned out to be the dash. So I managed to pick up a replacement working cluster this evening, all seems good with it, apart from neither the fuel of temp gauges come to life.
I can get them to work by placing 6v across the contacts on the back of the dash, but when its plugged in nothing works, where as the old fuel gauge does work... (the temp has been dodgey since i messed about with the back of the engine compartment

Does anyone know if there is a strip down guide available for the dash clocks? or any tips?

Cheers guys!
Tim

[Doctor Foster]

I had similar problem once with my temp gauge and found the metal pin in the connector block that plugs in the back had become bent and pushed back thus not making any contact when connected. Managed to manipulate it with a very small/thin screwdriver and bend it back into shape.

Worth a look.

[Poseidon]

Would that be one of the contacts in the big muti connector which plugs into the dash?

I think I need to open the instrument clusters up and make one good one from two slightly knackered ones...

Just not sure how easy it is or where to start without damaging the PCB on the back of the instruments..

[Doctor Foster]

Would that be one of the contacts in the big muti connector which plugs into the dash?

I think I need to open the instrument clusters up and make one good one from two slightly knackered ones...

Just not sure how easy it is or where to start without damaging the PCB on the back of the instruments..

Yes thats the one. Pull it off the back of the cluster and have a good look at the pins inside.

Removing the PCB is fairly straightforward just be very careful. The bulbs on the top of the console that light the speedo/clock up twist off to remove.

[Poseidon]

I just had a moment of genius after studying the haynes wiring diagram.

The new instruments had no little black thing on the back of the clock side, so I moved the one from the old dash to the new, refitted the dash and went for a drive. The fuel gauge in the new dash worked, but the coolant didn't, also after a short time the buzzer of doom once again sounded.. (same problem as I had with the original dash..

Tracing back the tracks on the PCB I noticed that the centre pin of the voltage stabiliser was linked to both the buzzer of doom bit and also the coolant gauge, therefore it looks like this was the route cause of the problems. So I've now ordered a new one which will hopefully fix the coolant gauge and also stop the buzzer of doom going off... well, lets hope so anyhow!

will report back after getting the new (£16 +vat) part fitted tomorrow... fingers crossed!

[Doctor Foster]

nice one.

fingers crossed for ya

[Doogs]

Hi everyone,

New here and first post, great site btw , i got clock and fuel gauge not working , im gonna try replacing voltage stabiliser first but cant find a link for suppliers please if anyone has one can they link it, thanks in advance

[Doctor Foster]

Hi everyone,

New here and first post, great site btw , i got clock and fuel gauge not working , im gonna try replacing voltage stabiliser first but cant find a link for suppliers please if anyone has one can they link it, thanks in advance

Is your temp gauge working?

[Doogs]

Hi,

It seems to be but barely registering (i ve only had van 2 days so still finding my way round it)

[Doctor Foster]

Hi,

It seems to be but barely registering (i ve only had van 2 days so still finding my way round it)

They temp needle takes a while move until they reach running temperature. Well mine does.

[Doogs]

Is the fact the clock not working either possibly just coincidental or does the voltage stabiliser affect that too, just trying to find an easy fix tbh before i look at the fuel sender, and thanks for the prompt response

[Poseidon]

I would probably check the multiplug that plugs into the bottom of the dash.. sounds like one of the pins isn't connecting properly, or the pcb on the dash where it connects is corroded..
From what I gather the voltage stabiliser effects the fuel, temp and also has a feed into the oil pressure warning system..

my local VW dealer was able to order me in a new Voltage Stabiliser, at an incredible £16 +vat!! hope it fixes the problem at that much!

[Doogs]

Thats great i ll look at that tomorrow, gave the multiplug a wiggle but i ll look in more depth now when i go into the dash, thanks for all the advice everyone

[Doctor Foster]

I would take the whole instrument pod off and thoroughly inspect it. its very easy. remove the cowling over the top. push out the switches, headlights/hazard light etc. pull out speedo cable and muti pin connector from rear. undo screws holding pod to the dash. Lift and and inspect the pcb tracks on the back. check for any sign of damage/corrosion or splitting of the tracks. Check the multi pin connector and makes sure all the pins inside it are not bent back.