I think its terminal

[albertramsbottom]

Over heated again today after 40 mins idling. timed it 5degs ATDC. Still the same, the oil light starts to flicker and the engine is very hot. In fact I can only just touch the centre of the fan where the three bolts are becuase its so hot.

How this part of the engine could get hot is beyond me.

Now I have to work out how to get this puppy to VW elite for a recon as we are in wales. I might get in touch with Lauri Pettitt maybe!

[famous phil]

Hi, do you know if the thermostatically controlled flaps are opening to let the cool air circulate the engine , is the tinware and engine compartment seals in-tacked , cooling pipe clear of obstructions and fitted to body to draw cool air into the side vents

[albertramsbottom]

Hi, do you know if the thermostatically controlled flaps are opening to let the cool air circulate the engine , is the tinware and engine compartment seals in-tacked , cooling pipe clear of obstructions and fitted to body to draw cool air into the side vents

Yes I disconnected the thermostat and its in the failsafe position, so allways open. All tinware in place and the engine bay is nice and sealed. I have no idea what the "cooling pipe" is though

I dont think these exist on CU engines

Cheers

[CovKid]

Failed/failing oil pump?

[albertramsbottom]

Possibility!

Dodgy oil pressure relief valve!
Oil pump
Blocked oil channels
Main bearings

New engine I think, I have had enough

We have had a chat and we might sell it as a lemon. Its really anoying as it starts with a tiny turn of the key with no throttle. I dont know what it would be worth with the engine issues. I suppose with more CU knowledge than I have it might be an easy fix but worst case senerio it would need a recon.

bay of fleas maybe

IMG_0228.JPG

[VWCamperfan]

I don't think this is oil related. The oil light is simply coming on because the engine is overheating and making the oil thinner.
As a last resort thingy, start her up and get underneath to make sure you have plenty of air coming out of the cooling tinware at the bottom.
I'm still not convinced you have a good airflow from the cooling fan around the engine. The oil plays some part in keeping the engine cool but most of it is done by the cooling fan and tinware.

Parts 12 and 13 below are where you should have a load of air coming through (below engine cylinders).

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Pe ... ed_tinware" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[albertramsbottom]

There is a pretty good airflow towards the back of the bus from these tinware peices. Even at idle I can feel the air blowing. All tinwares in place and the engine bay is totally sealed.

Its a mystery which to be honest has worn me out. Ive had enought

But I think you are totally right about the oil thinning due to overheating. I have thought this all along and not being able to touch the fan becuase the engine is so hot is just not right

Im gonna get a transit and bung a matress in the back

cheers

[albertramsbottom]

thats intresting, if you put the word transit in this forum it spells it transhite

go on give it ago

T r a n s i t is the only way you can put it in without it changing

[boatdog]

have you checked the engine cooling fins are clear of rubbish its ok having air blowing down but if the fins are full of leaves oil dirt etc it wont cool when its hot if you go under the engine is it blowing hot air down?
and when you say you have the cooling in the fail safe position are you sure it actually is?

[famous phil]

boatdog has a good point about the cooling flaps being in the correct position or not

Quote - I have no idea what the "cooling pipe" is though - sorry think I've muddled this up with the rubber connector for the heating system ,
fully synthetic oil will cause them to run hotter as it doesn't cool to well

[albertramsbottom]

have you checked the engine cooling fins are clear of rubbish its ok having air blowing down but if the fins are full of leaves oil dirt etc it wont cool when its hot if you go under the engine is it blowing hot air down?
and when you say you have the cooling in the fail safe position are you sure it actually is?

It isnt possible for them to be round the wrong way. I spring ensures that they remain open

[albertramsbottom]

Just stripped everything oily of this peice of sh**t. Oil strainer off, other oil thingy where the dipstick goes and the oil pressure releif valve. All looks really good and clean. The oil strainer was very clean, but there was a bit of bright green rubber and looked like a bit of gasket.

The oil pressure releif spring looks good. The bently manual says that I can test the spring with a spring tester (funny enough). I dont think I have one of those in the shed

[Mocki]

where you planning on finding a 1982 transit then? good luck!!

i recon you might have more than one issue here,
has it always over heated?? or is it a new thing???

[albertramsbottom]

where you planning on finding a 1982 transhite then? good luck!!

i recon you might have more than one issue here,
has it always over heated?? or is it a new thing???

Nope only since I had a new head fitted

Which meakes me think that I should check the valve clearances on that head as well just before it mysteriously bursts into flames

I think the idle is a little slow as well so when I done the timing it still could be out a little, no tachometer

Clutching a straws

[billy739]

try spinning the dizzy slowly with the engine running at idle , until it reaches the higest running speed.