footwell water leak
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- gti mad man
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footwell water leak
running out of ideas lol list goes like
1)rust round windows profesionaly sorted
2)new window rubber and sealed profesionaly
3)brand new vw washer jets
4) wiper spindles sealed
5) aerial holes sealed?
6) grommets in place behind the headlights
any other ideas
1)rust round windows profesionaly sorted
2)new window rubber and sealed profesionaly
3)brand new vw washer jets
4) wiper spindles sealed
5) aerial holes sealed?
6) grommets in place behind the headlights
any other ideas
Holdsworth villa 3 1987
Andy
Andy
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Re: footwell water leak
check your door seals and roof seals. Sit in it with a a hose on everywhere.
- very_bland
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Re: footwell water leak
Mine comes from my windscreen corners. Quite an impressive puddle I get on the passenger side too!
Re: footwell water leak
Check the condition of you gutter where it joins the roof section, any holes there allows water to track along the inside and drips down by your right leg front bulkhead, I know cos I've been there.
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Re: footwell water leak
I'm actually about to tackle this job in a big way over next week or so. I found I only really got water on my feet when pulling off after it had rained overnight and eventually traced it to the very top edge of windscreen seal. You only need a hairline crack that you can't spot by eye and water will work its way underneath, down the sides (out of sight beneath rubber lip), down to bottom corners, accumulating and spilling inside the cab. As mines a Caravelle I was loath to lose the seal with chrome insert so have ordered a brand new one this week - almost double the price of a standard one but it will look right and its also easier when it comes to refitting screen - allegedly.
My plan is to cut old rubber away, remove screen and spend a full week repairing/rebuilding windscreen lip, fit new rubber PLUS windscreen mastic, but to be on safe side may create a new route out at bottom corners for any moisture that does find its way under seal. You can probably rule out windscreen seal by next time, lifing the side part of the seal (ie on A pillars) and see if theres any moisture beneath. If there is, its coming in via the very top edge - common (even with a new seal sometimes). Other route is via aerial which I've filled in as I never listen to the radio anyway. Theres also a line of thinking that rain that sits in bottom corners on outside of glass when vehicle is parked also finds its way in between glass and seal but thats something I'll be paying close attention to during refit. Either way the job simply can't wait any longer.
My plan is to cut old rubber away, remove screen and spend a full week repairing/rebuilding windscreen lip, fit new rubber PLUS windscreen mastic, but to be on safe side may create a new route out at bottom corners for any moisture that does find its way under seal. You can probably rule out windscreen seal by next time, lifing the side part of the seal (ie on A pillars) and see if theres any moisture beneath. If there is, its coming in via the very top edge - common (even with a new seal sometimes). Other route is via aerial which I've filled in as I never listen to the radio anyway. Theres also a line of thinking that rain that sits in bottom corners on outside of glass when vehicle is parked also finds its way in between glass and seal but thats something I'll be paying close attention to during refit. Either way the job simply can't wait any longer.
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- bunnynogood
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Re: footwell water leak
RE. little hard to trace/fix capillary leaks round window seals etc. has anyone used and had good results from this stuff ?
http://www.purplemarine.com/Product.asp ... ode=350193" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Capt. Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure. If it can seal small capillary leaks on seagoing vessels then it must be some good
http://www.purplemarine.com/Product.asp ... ode=350193" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Capt. Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure. If it can seal small capillary leaks on seagoing vessels then it must be some good
Only old Fools left in this van overnight
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Re: footwell water leak
It is good stuff a little goes a long long way.
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Re: footwell water leak
Only thing I would add (for anyone else who hits this problem), is do have a nose under that seal. If its never had any work done under there and its been leaking any amount of time, rust may already be spreading big time and crack cure (whilst brilliant) won't put a stop to the rot and worse problems later. This is why I've decided to pop screen out and really go for it. Ordered a fresh bottle of vactan in preparation as I'll have plenty to weld I'm sure and one coat of that plus Rustoleum will sort it for another 20 years. It should also markedly reduce condensation on the inside and keep my feet dry...
Will post pics for those interested....
Will post pics for those interested....
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
Re: footwell water leak
For anyone removing their windscreen I found it a lot easier to handle the windscreen using some vacuum handles you can get them at B&Q make sure they are attached correctly as the curve of the glass means you have to press quite hard before you operate the vacuum lever.
Re: footwell water leak
Doing similar job and wondered where to get Vatcan from...looked on ebay but can't find it, have i got the spelling right? Cheers.
NB Would defo be interested in pics of this job.
NB Would defo be interested in pics of this job.
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Re: footwell water leak
no its Vactan...
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Re: footwell water leak
And don't buy a giant bottle - false economy unless you're doing a rusty barge. Vactan only has a shelf life of one year so the £6-£7 bottle (or smaller) is best bet.
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Re: footwell water leak
Heres the full description of Vactan. Incidently I was the first one to pen its unique qualities on here three years ago and it fits in perfectly with the £50 rollered paint job. Chickenkoop has gone the whole winter with ONLY Vactan on various rust spots and it has held its own (even if his camper presently looks like a dalmation). I still think its the best rust treatment there is and have used it on so many things now. It does appear to halt the rust completely if applied correctly although as always, if an area is totally rotten, you should always fit new steel - just my experience. It can also be brushed/dabbed on or watered down (yes with water) and sprayed into crevices, seams etc. A small cheap plastic hand sprayer works fine but you can even run it through a paint gun I guess.
I've just ordered a fresh bottle myself as I'm about to remove windscreen (to stop notorious internal cab leak) and will be welding in new steel and repairing windscreen lip before installing a brand new windscreen rubber and wouldn't contemplate it without a coat of vactan prior to repainting:
Vactan is a waterbased rust converter and primer and very little surface preparation is required before use. It is widely used in the commercial industry but can also be used in a domestic setting. It will treat rust on cars, car chassis, boat keels, engines... the list is endless...even your garden gate. If you have rust to treat then you need VACTAN.
What is Vactan?
Vactan is a complex mixture of a vinyl acrylic copolymer and tannic acid for the treatment of corroded steel and iron surfaces. Vactan neutralises the corrosion process by converting the rust into a blue black metallo-organic complex which passivates the surface. It then further protects the surface by forming a film with low permeability to water vapour and oxygen. Vactan is self priming and many do not overcoat but for long term protection it is advisable to overcoat with solvent or water based paint. One litre of Vactan can treat 8-9 square metres.This non hazardous product has been tested and certified as fit for use for the carriage of grain and use in potable water systems. Store in ambient conditions out of direct sunlight.
Application
Surfaces should be wire brushed to remove loose rust and it is preferable to remove soluble salts by washing with water as they inhibit the conversion process. Surfaces should also be oil and grease free. Vactan has been designed for application by spray and brush. By airless spray a dry film thickness of 60 microns can be achieved without sagging. The addition of further water may be necessary for air assisted spraying (50-70 psi). By brush application, a dry film thickness of 40 microns per coat is considered optimum. Vactan can be applied over damp surfaces and dries quickly under suitable temperature and humidity conditions. Immediately after use equipment should be washed in water to remove all traces of Vactan.
Drying Conditions
Under ideal conditions a 100 micron wet film of Vactan will be touch dry in approximately 10 minutes at 20 Deg C. Whereas at 10 Deg C and little air movement this time could be as much as 2 hours.
Recommendations
Vactan has numerous uses throughout the world. It receives high praise from the Dutch Barge Association and many shipping companies. We supply to Disney Cruises, Universal Studios in Florida, P&O Ferries and now have distributers around the world.
Availability
Vactan is available in 150ml, 250ml, 500ml, 1lit, 5lit and 25lit containers.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trks ... Categories" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I've just ordered a fresh bottle myself as I'm about to remove windscreen (to stop notorious internal cab leak) and will be welding in new steel and repairing windscreen lip before installing a brand new windscreen rubber and wouldn't contemplate it without a coat of vactan prior to repainting:
Vactan is a waterbased rust converter and primer and very little surface preparation is required before use. It is widely used in the commercial industry but can also be used in a domestic setting. It will treat rust on cars, car chassis, boat keels, engines... the list is endless...even your garden gate. If you have rust to treat then you need VACTAN.
What is Vactan?
Vactan is a complex mixture of a vinyl acrylic copolymer and tannic acid for the treatment of corroded steel and iron surfaces. Vactan neutralises the corrosion process by converting the rust into a blue black metallo-organic complex which passivates the surface. It then further protects the surface by forming a film with low permeability to water vapour and oxygen. Vactan is self priming and many do not overcoat but for long term protection it is advisable to overcoat with solvent or water based paint. One litre of Vactan can treat 8-9 square metres.This non hazardous product has been tested and certified as fit for use for the carriage of grain and use in potable water systems. Store in ambient conditions out of direct sunlight.
Application
Surfaces should be wire brushed to remove loose rust and it is preferable to remove soluble salts by washing with water as they inhibit the conversion process. Surfaces should also be oil and grease free. Vactan has been designed for application by spray and brush. By airless spray a dry film thickness of 60 microns can be achieved without sagging. The addition of further water may be necessary for air assisted spraying (50-70 psi). By brush application, a dry film thickness of 40 microns per coat is considered optimum. Vactan can be applied over damp surfaces and dries quickly under suitable temperature and humidity conditions. Immediately after use equipment should be washed in water to remove all traces of Vactan.
Drying Conditions
Under ideal conditions a 100 micron wet film of Vactan will be touch dry in approximately 10 minutes at 20 Deg C. Whereas at 10 Deg C and little air movement this time could be as much as 2 hours.
Recommendations
Vactan has numerous uses throughout the world. It receives high praise from the Dutch Barge Association and many shipping companies. We supply to Disney Cruises, Universal Studios in Florida, P&O Ferries and now have distributers around the world.
Availability
Vactan is available in 150ml, 250ml, 500ml, 1lit, 5lit and 25lit containers.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trks ... Categories" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
- edoh
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Re: footwell water leak
was all ready to jump into this thread with my experience of the passenger well swimming pool - when i thought i'd take a couple of photos - just to share my problem -
laid out some bog paper and talcum powder so path of rain water would be evident to forum posters - NOTE - BOG PAPER AND TALCUM POWDER - ESSENTIAL TOOLS OF THE PROPER SHADE TREE MECHANIC!!!
had always presumed small pool of water in the footwell must be coming from passenger side windscreen corner -
as it appens - nuffink from the top roll of paper/talcum powder - so unlikely to be a windscreen leak -
however -
soggy mass of tissue - on passenger step!?!
nothing on tissues placed on top of and side of passenger door?!?
any ideas senors?
let me know -
edoh
winner of most perfumed campervan 1969 1970 1971 1972 197..............
laid out some bog paper and talcum powder so path of rain water would be evident to forum posters - NOTE - BOG PAPER AND TALCUM POWDER - ESSENTIAL TOOLS OF THE PROPER SHADE TREE MECHANIC!!!
had always presumed small pool of water in the footwell must be coming from passenger side windscreen corner -
as it appens - nuffink from the top roll of paper/talcum powder - so unlikely to be a windscreen leak -
however -
soggy mass of tissue - on passenger step!?!
nothing on tissues placed on top of and side of passenger door?!?
any ideas senors?
let me know -
edoh
winner of most perfumed campervan 1969 1970 1971 1972 197..............
Owner of a red T25 fixed hi top campervan - colour - spikey red - petrol - water cooled - 1.9 dg engine rhd - 1990 g reg n still going strong!-