fitting steering rack mounts

[lloydy]

has anyone fitted these?
are any special tools needed?
Step by step guide for an idiot would be nice, as i am going to attempt this myself
many thanks

[Red Westie]

The standard rack mounts are pretty easy to change. I did mine recently when I fitted a recon rack but I reckon they could just about be done in situe. The mounts themselves are easily extracted with a longish 8mm bolt and appropriate sized 1/2inch socket (to go over the bush) then just wind a nut on the bolt to pull the old bush into the socket. Reverse to pull the new bushes in (helped with a small smear of rubber grease)
You may have to undo at the splined coupling just to give the rack a bit more movement (mark first so you put it back in the same position.
Interestingly the mounts have two flat sides that I positioned top/bottom (rightly or wrongly this gives less lateral movement which is desireable)
Martin

[lloydy]

thanks for reply, had a good look underneath and seen the steering rack boot on one side is split/hanging off and that looks a bit more involved. So i guess i will book it in to local garage to have a bit of a front end refresh

[Red Westie]

OK......in addition, a track rod end to remove.
1) mark a line of chalk across the track rod and arm.
2) undo the locking nut
3) split the ball joint from the hub (hit the side of the taper joint hard whilst applying leverage and it will pop off)
4) Count the number of turns the track rod end unscrews from the rod itself (easy because it will come to rest against the nut when you replace it as long as you don't move the locking nut too much)
5) Cut off/pull off the old boot
6) Renew and use new clips/ties or locking wire to fix
7) count the track rod end back on
As long as the chalk line 'lines up' once tightened there will be no need to have the tracking redone.

Martin

[lhd]

I thought you didn't need to remove the track rod end to fit a new boot, the boot just slide over.
I'm sure billy 739 mentioned something about this.
Here it is..
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... r#p7348369" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Rob

[lloydy]

thanks, will have a good look tomorrow in daylight and see if i think i can do it, would like to think i can, just ordered the boots from brickwerks, so at least i'll have them. hopefully give it a go midweek, i guess you can use cable ties to hold the boots on? or is there something better to use?
thanks again, Lloyd

[lloydy]

thanks also lhd just read that thread. Now just positive thinking '' i will do it myself and save money''

[famous phil]

Hi all,, I find after reading the link that Billy739 has put up that this may be the hard way I've done it that way myself but found a much easier way ( was updated in the workshop bulletins ) to replace these boots
the side that you are replacing turn the steering so that the trackrod extends on that side to nearly full lock , would be good to jack it up on this side but not nessesary ,, pull the boot from the rack and reveale the iner tie rod there's a swivel housing that unscrews there's a locking tab towards the rack ( these can wear and cause play in stearing if boots left in poor condition ) once undone remove damaged gator and replace with new ,,, when refing the track rod you must remember the locking tab " you dont want it comming loose , pictures can tell more than a thousand words back in ten mins Some might think swings and roundabouts but I had a tool a litle like a pair of molegrips but with a claw for the top jaw for locking the tab on the rack ,,,,,,,,,

[Red Westie]

Now you mention it you could well be right about not having to remove the track rod ends...obviously you will still need to remove the track rods from the hubs.
If these are original they will have castlated nuts with a splitpin.......make sure the splitpin is replaced or if re-used is in good condition.
Like you say, the new boots should stretch over the track rod ends...sorry about that wasn't thinking but thats even better isn't it.

Oh and just in case the diagram above is confusing you? you certainly don't have to touch the inner track control arm locking tabs...just knock off the track rod ends from the hubs.
Martin

[lloydy]

thanks everyone, shall post again after i've done it [do you see the positive thinking there]

[famous phil]

Hi all ,
Martin I'm just pointing out how VAG used to do this task and the pics above show the rack in a vice for clarity , ,,

Regards Phil

[Red Westie]

Famous Phil.....I wasn't having a go, I was just pointing out, for someone doing this job for the first time, pictures of a rack in a vice and several references to 'the locking tab' and the mention of 'mole grips with a claw for locking the tab...these things can confuse when replacing the boot does not involve these operations. that's all mate
The picture does help....let the ferret see the hole

Martin

[famous phil]

Hi , Thats OK its just like a lot of jobs like this there can be several ways to doing the job

[lloydy]

Right, fitted the new steering rack boots. went quite well, apart from not being able to remove the split pin from the track rod end on drivers side. thought it would be a good idea to drill out the broken bit stuck inside. ended up braking drill bit off inside, and getting that stuck
All worked out in the end though, sothanks for all the tips, maybe tomorrow i'll do the rack mounts. might be best to wait till after the dartmoor meet this weekend

[Ian Hulley]

maybe tomorrow i'll do the rack mounts. might be best to wait till after the dartmoor meet this weekend

Sometimes the rack bushes need to be pulled out ... home DIY way is a longish M8 bolt and nut, series of washers and a socket wide and deep enough to pull the bush into. Apply coppaslip to the rack before the new bushes are fitted ... if you haven't bought them already the powerflex ones from Brickwerks are the dogs

Ian.