gear oil change 1st timer

[robobobo]

Hi
Im goint to attempt my first gearbox and front diff oil change on my caravelle. Ive read the posts about recommended oils etc but was wondering on anything i need to watch out for when attempting it and any special tools i may need. I read on gowesty that i may need to pump the oil in ?? is this correct or can i get away with a suitable long nose funnel. Is it pretty obvious where the drain fill plugs are ?? Do i need to get any seals for replacing the drain plugs ??

I planned to use the Fuchs 75w/90 , my box does have the 1st 2nd syndrome when cold and i do have to take it easy on that gear change to avoid a slightly unpleasant noise. It never occurs when changing down from 3rd or up from 2nd to 3rd though. Is there a more suitable oil to help this(non bank breaking) and is there any where in particular to check in the linkage that is a common failure that may help me achieve a smoother change ?

Im sure it will become obvious when i crawl under but a little advice is worth a lot for a new kid, so thanks in advance

Many thanks Syncrosperts

PS, will a mk2 golf GTI 8v AFM be a direct replacement for my 2.1 DJ AFM, been getting a few judders of late ... i heard it was true but wasn't sure if they would be calibrated the same.

ta ta cheers

[syncrosimon]

I am sure you have read that you need to undo the fill plugs first, just to be on the safe side!

With three extension bars I can undo the gearbox fill plug from the rear off side wheel arch. Just jack it up a bit on the standard jack first to give you clearance.

I keep a bit of garden hose, and a funnel for filling. Then tie it up somewhere at the back, and high up. You can sit in a garden chair with a cup of tea whilst filing then, which still will take 30 minutes or so. Plug the ends of the hose when finished for next year.

Might as well lubricate the linkage whilst you are under there.

Simon.

[Titus A Duxass]

Warm the oil in a bucket of hot water first, it speeds the process up.

[Aidan]

for less than a tenner you can get a 500ml oil syringe from your local motor factor which makes the job so much easier
if petrol then the snap on 3/8" 17mm hex tool (about £10 off ebay)is the best for accessing the drain plug, the double ended type foul the exhaust if trying to use the 1/2" end to drive, so you end up on a spanner which is less than satisfactory, esp if plug hasn't been out in a while (or ever)
the state of the plug will give you an idea of the state of the box
the second gear when cold issue will be helped by the semisythetic oil, but the damage to the synchro dogs is accumulative and you won't eliminate it, it's a factor of the design (1st and second sat in cold oil, oil can't move fast enough to allow the synchroring to slow the gear down in time for the selection shift) and peoples driving styles
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[robobobo]

Thanks Aiden , Titus and Simon, great tips !!

The second gear is ok if i back off the revs and change moderately. Is it true i only need 4 litres refill for the rear due to the ball valve ??

[Aidan]

4 litres yes probably less but go for measured quantity as I've seen quite a few with only 3 1/2 litres in them in total where they have been filled to overflowing, but the cold oil doesn't necessarily pass the ball valve so not actually full, if level then the valve should be open but slightly down at the back and it may close, some ramps aren't very level and it depends on how van is put on and how heavy it is and what engine it has sometimes

[robobobo]

thanks Aiden, much appreciated.