What fixed my engine??

[sharpmz]

I know this is going to be really quiet long so apolagies already!!

I bought a 85 1.9 (think DG) a little while ago and have been slowly putting right some of the wrongs and trying to get it ready for the MOT.

Everything seemed to be going well and managed to get most of the work done (with loads of help from posts on here!!) When i bought the van there seemed to be a small ammount of blue smoke, i asked about it and he said it was from some contaminated fuel that had been put in accidentaly. The alarm bells started and i immediatly had reservations but after speaking for a while the guy was really genuine and i felt inclined to belive him especially as the engine had been re cond at elite a 2 years ago ( only done 100 miles on it) and had been at his workshop since with him regularly running it up to temp and looking after it etc.

After finishing the last few jobs for the MOT i drove the van up to the garage but only made it half way before the engine lost power and a large puff of smoke later and it was all over!!

The van has been up at the garage and had all the usual suspects, blocked breather etc checked and all ok. The next to check was rings but before that the mech put in some Lucas oil treatment gave it a run but didn't seem to work. I then remembered about the dodgy fuel and after running the tank dry filled up with new and after a bit of chugging... no smoke!!

now i know i should just leave it there but i have a few thoughts,
1) if it was a stuck ring would it just free its self? ( sorry i know very little about engines)
1) did the addative do the trick and just needed a while to get in.
2) Would the dodgy fuel be the likely suspect?
3) Is there any way to tell if it was a stuck ring, bad fuel, or the lucas addative that did the trick
4)If it was just fuel should i now drain the oil, flush and replace to get rid of the addative?

Thanks to anyone that has managed to stay awake long enough to read all that!

Any help really appreciated
Thankyou!!

[ghost123uk]

2) Would the dodgy fuel be the likely suspect?

Sounds like it to me

4)If it was just fuel should i now drain the oil, flush and replace to get rid of the addative?

Yes (though, imho, flushing is not really necessary, but do fit a new MANN oil filter, cheap enough from the main dealers btw)

If whatever was in the fuel was lighter than Petrol, it won't have got to the engine in much quantity until the fuel level dropped. (note = it won't be Diesel though as this mixes evenly with the petrol)

I would look at the plugs, change them for new if they look at all manky, then check them again in 200 miles to gauge how clean the motor is running. (report back if you are not sure how to check plug condition / colour )

Change the fuel filter.

Keep checking the oil and water.

Keep fingers crossed

.

[sharpmz]

Ideal! thanks very much, has put my mind at rest!
I think i saw a post on plug condition already so will find that again have have a look.

Am i right in thinking that the engine should have a 500 mile run in even though its been there for a while and is there a best way to do this (sure there is a post for this too so will look as well)?? I changed the fuel filter first off (which was clagged right up!) Should i change it again anyway as cheap to do or will it flush through? Oh and when you say keep an eye on water and oil do you mean just level or should i be looking out for anything else?

Thanks again for help!

[lloyd]

Changing fuel filter is cheap insurance.
Get 2 and keep one as a spare.

[R0B]

also worth mentioning here.a lot of vans i have seen have a fuel filter put on the fuel line near the engine.i think the persons who put them there did not realise there is one,just after the tank.this is the only one you should have..

[ghost123uk]

Am i right in thinking that the engine should have a 500 mile run in even though its been there for a while and is there a best way to do this

Not sure what you mean by a 500 mile run.
They certainly benefit from a good run on the motorway.
It cleans out the combustion chambers and exhaust valves / ports, is good for the rings, dries out any containments in the oil and most of all it gets the hydraulic tappets working.

( I drove 110 miles back from Grantham last weekend at a faster than normal cruising speed, ie around 70 - 75 mph, and the engine sounds and runs better since then !!)

Oh and when you say keep an eye on water and oil do you mean just level or should i be looking out for anything else?

No not really, as long as all looks OK and there is no oil in the water or water in the oil, plus no loss of either, then you likely have a good engine

.

[sharpmz]

Yep, there's definately only one filter.... and it's in the right place!

Sorry, didn't make myself too clear there. what i meant is i think i read somewhere that the engine needs to be "run in" for 500 miles? Just wondering if this is still the case?

Would love to nip onto the motor way for a trip out but takes 3 hours from here... will have to make do with the A30.

[VWCamperfan]

The engine only needs running in if new parts have been fitted ie. pistons/rings, barrels, bearings etc.
If new pistons/rings/barrels have been put in then it will have to be run in and you will get some blue smoke until everything has seated and sealed properly.

[sharpmz]

Righto,sounds like everything might be ok!! (fingers crossed)

Only thing i'm a little concerned about now is the business of this addative. It went in without me knowing too much about it but the guy semmed convinced it was the mutts nuts so didn't think too much of it. have now looked into it a bit and find some that swear by it and some that slate it which was expected. But then came across this http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm and now not sure what to think?

Anybody got any thoughts?
Sorry should probably be a new thread and may of been covered already.

[VWCamperfan]

Watercooled engines tend to be a little bit more forgiving towards addatives in these engines. Aircooled run hotter and most addatives don't like it and tend to clog the oil filter.
Personally I wouldn't use engine addatives but I do use molyslip in the gearbox after experiencing first hand how good this stuff is!

[AngeloEvs]

also worth mentioning here.a lot of vans i have seen have a fuel filter put on the fuel line near the engine.i think the persons who put them there did not realise there is one,just after the tank.this is the only one you should have..

I and others have moved to having just one in the engine bay to overcome the problem of fitting the later, cheaper fuel pumps which have a larger inlet diameter. I carry a short length of fuel hose suitable for for the new pump (if it needs to fitted) and can easily connect to the filter which has a stepped outlet to accomodate the slightly larger hose. No need for two though.......I couldn't source the correct one so stuck with doing the filter mod.

[lloyd]

The engine only needs running in if new parts have been fitted ie. pistons/rings, barrels, bearings etc.
If new pistons/rings/barrels have been put in then it will have to be run in and you will get some blue smoke until everything has seated and sealed properly.

Think engine is new with only 100 miles on it, so has new parts have been fitted 100 miles ago.

[lloyd]

sharpmz, I'm a little confused. Your first post says contaminate in fuel, now you talk about oil additive.

[sharpmz]

The problem was a lot of smoke from exhaust. As well as the huge number of thins it could be i was aware it could be dodgy fuel, before i could do anything about this the mech put in the oil addative. The fuel tank ran dry and put in fresh and the smoke has stopped but not sure if it's down to the addative or fuel, i really want to belive it's the fuel and seems most likely but hey, when is anything straight forward and easy!!

My worry now is that should i leave the addative in or drain and change??

[ghost123uk]

My worry now is that should i leave the addative in or drain and change??

drain and change