Just a quick brake question or two

[conrad]

Just changed the disks and pads and I suspect I have at least 1 sticky caliper.

Should there be any contact between the pads and disks when the brakes are released?

The drivers side on mine sticky I suspect. The caliper was a complete buggar to rewind and I can't really turn the disk by hand when the brakes are released. The passenger side was easy to rewind but there is still a little contact between disk and pad. I can turn the disk by hand but I can feel a little resistance.

I'd rather not have to spend a fortune but I refuse to scrimp on brakes. I was planning on just replacing the dodgy one with a second hand unit but I'm not sure if I need to replace the pair?

Anyone care to offer any opinions? Was looking at the GSF calipers. They seem to be the cheapest but has anyone had any experience of them? Is it, as it so often is, a buy cheap buy twice situation? If these are to be avoided which are the ones to get.

The van is a 87 1.9DG T25 conversion (with the later type brakes of course).

Thanks
Conrad

[AngeloEvs]

You should be able to turn the wheel freely. Think that the calipers available from most stockists are reconditioned anyway and new (if available) would cost a mint me thinks! Best to replace as a pair was the advice given to me.

[kevtherev]

the pads will be in contact with the disc lightly.

that piston should be pushed in as far as it will go then the pedal will settle the pad against the disc when pumped.

if it sticks on hard then it may be seized with corrosion.
replace with new
Hey you'd be stiff after all that time open to the elements

[Fritz]

All I can suggest is IF you have any doubts about the calipers and you can afford to replace them, then do so.........BUT shop around for the best prices, you will be surprised at the price you can get them from an independant supplier compared to the any of the larger parts companies.......


Regards


Fritz.........

[conrad]

Thanks for the quick replies fellas. At least it's only the one caliper mucking about.

What I think I'm going to do is replace the sticky one with a 2nd hand one, see what it's like and if it fails the MOT next month or feels unsafe in any way I'll replace the pair with recons.

Thanks again
Conrad

[Ian Hulley]

Just a word of caution, some of the after market pads are too thick. i.e. with the piston fully in the new pads are too thick to go over the disc. I had to file some off the lining material of the last set I bought. Fitting the Brickwerks uprated pads this week so we'll see how they go in

Ian.

[conrad]

Really? Wow, that's just great.

You don't know which ones are which? I got mine in Euro Car Parts. Can't remember which brand they were though....

I hope they'll wear to to the correct thickness pretty quickly if I've got the thick ones. I'm sure the new disks are not helping things either.

Nothings ever easy is it?

[T-3PO]

Out of interest, and just a thought, is there no way to strip the caliper(s), clean, lubricate and rebuild them with new seals, springs etc etc?

I had a similar sticking problem on mine, but it's the early model with twin pistons, used to squeal like biatch when you really worked the brakes on steep hills. Cost me about £25 in all and done in about 6 hours spread over a couple of days (leaving the pistons and non perishable parts in brake fluid for a day or so really cleaned them up well)

[Red Westie]

conrad....if your brake pads are that tight, you really can't just leave them to wear down. The reason why you can't just leave it is the friction will cause your brakes to over heat with possible vapour lock (complete loss of brakes due to the fluid boiling) You are going to have to strip out those pads and take a mm or so off each with some course emery laid on a flat surface (assuming that the pads are just too big and this is NOT piston seizure)
Martin

[conrad]

Out of interest, and just a thought, is there no way to strip the caliper(s), clean, lubricate and rebuild them with new seals, springs etc etc?

I had a similar sticking problem on mine, but it's the early model with twin pistons, used to squeal like biatch when you really worked the brakes on steep hills. Cost me about £25 in all and done in about 6 hours spread over a couple of days (leaving the pistons and non perishable parts in brake fluid for a day or so really cleaned them up well)

Well, I'd thought about that but I'm renting my van out on Saturday for a week and I want to be sure nothing's going to go wrong for them. I'll probably do that in my own time and have a spare one. I'm also trying to fix exactly the same problem on my Saab 9000 (same caliper too!) so I just need to get them both sorted a soon as possible or I'll have no car and not be able to rent the van out into the bargain.

conrad....if your brake pads are that tight, you really can't just leave them to wear down. The reason why you can't just leave it is the friction will cause your brakes to over heat with possible vapour lock (complete loss of brakes due to the fluid boiling) You are going to have to strip out those pads and take a mm or so off each with some course emery laid on a flat surface (assuming that the pads are just too big and this is NOT piston seizure)
Martin

Well I'm pretty sure that the N/S caliper is working OK. It wound back really easily and is definitely releasing the brake pads instantly. I can turn the hub by hand with the wheel off and there's no real resistance. Just sounds like the pads are rubbing very lightly on the disk which I understand is to be expected.

I suppose it might be prudent to take a mm or two off just to be sure?

The O/S is definitely sticky/seized so I've got one off one of the traders on here. I'll get that on as soon as it arrives and replacing the fluid might be a good idea while I'm at it I reckon.

[Ian Hulley]

The Brickwerks uprated late pads fit perfectly, surprise surprise Will report back on performance in a day or 3.

Ian

[conrad]

Well, I got my caliper but I got sent the wrong side so I decided to push the piston back and forward for about 15 mins. The sticky caliper was so much easier to push back than the first time when we were using an extension bar on the rewind tool. Was able to do it by hand this time and the more it was pushed in and out it became even easier.

The pads were ok and not too big as I'd feared. Took it out for a bit of a run and of course as the pads and disks were new the braking wasn't the best but after about 50 miles now it's really improved. I'd say that after another couple of hundred of miles it'll be as it should be. I didn't bleed the system as I suspect I'm going to sheer a nipple if I do so that can wait until the hire is over. The sticky caliper has stopped sticking too. There was an equal amount of heat between the two sides - result!

Was changing oil, plugs and filters last night and the starter finally died. No more tapping it with a hammer so I suppose I'll have to do that today as well. Good job I've a new one waiting in a box and even better it went now instead of next week...............

[toolsntat]

Out of interest, and just a thought, is there no way to strip the caliper(s), clean, lubricate and rebuild them with new seals, springs etc etc?

I had a similar sticking problem on mine, but it's the early model with twin pistons, used to squeal like biatch when you really worked the brakes on steep hills. Cost me about £25 in all and done in about 6 hours spread over a couple of days (leaving the pistons and non perishable parts in brake fluid for a day or so really cleaned them up well)

Hi there, is there any more info that I should know, as all being well will be doing this shortly on an early set...
Got a service kit from GSF
Cheers
Andy