Silly Question but....

Post by **KarlT** » 23 Mar 2006, 09:32

Finally getting round to some of that TLC and was wondering......

Gearbox oil...... What do we recommend?.....Is it the same as a regular/normal T25?

Speedo cable......Is that regular as well?

Is there any bits underneath that would appreciate some grease

Post by **Diamond Hell** » 23 Mar 2006, 11:05

Gearbox oil - Dave at Shiplake Motors recommends EP80-90. The specced oil is GL4. It's an utter utter a*** to fill BTW

Front diff oil is specced at GL5 NOT GL4

Speedo cable is totally different to 2WD buses.

If your lockers are working leave well alone but exercise regularly, if they aren't working get in there with the PlusGas or TT. If they take a long time to come on then maybe you should take the actuators off and grease the pins.

Also drop the gear linkage on the box, clean out the cup and grease it up - m'mmmmmmmmmm smooth gears

Post by **KarlT** » 23 Mar 2006, 19:51

Cheers D Hell for getting back

Speedo cable special item

Where the hell would you get one of them?

Mine isn't broken but does the jumping about & tap tapping below 30 mph & on my old bay that meant broken cable soon. (May try WD40 down it)

So the front diff takes oil

( You live & learn. ) But if front diff already tightens up on full lock, new oil's not going to help........ is it?

''Also drop the gear linkage on the box, clean out the cup and grease it up - m'mmmmmmmmmm smooth gears''

Sounds bloody good but...........How do I do it???

P.S. No diff locks don't work........ I'm determined to actually get under and have a look.....one day soon.........honest!!!

Post by **HarryMann** » 23 Mar 2006, 20:11

Mine isn't broken but does the jumping about & tap tapping below 30 mph & on my old bay that meant broken cable soon. (May try WD40 down it)

Could be the speedo, not the cable.. cable is VW OEM

Just disconnect it at top under pod/binnacle and see if it turns smoothly when driving...

If you take the cable off the diff be careful, as with everything syncro, clean thoroughly all around first to see what you are looking at and and Plus Gas as DH says. Don't even think about cross-threading the knurled collar when refitting.

All syncros will tighten up on full-lock, its not the diff its the VC (unless you have left the diff-lock on and then you'd be experiencing a few other problems as well). The VC always transfers a degree of torque so you will get this effect, question is, how much it does it. Dont panic yet, read up on VCs and their testing... and glean an idea.

There are lots of linkages in the gerachange, the ball/cup DH is talikng often gets full of much off-roading and if the rubber bellows has come off (which it does, or split) obviously its the wrong way up for draing water even...
Until you familiarise yourself with the Syncro underworld, its all going to be a bit of a mystery....

But in this case, there are two through bolts/nuts holding the rear sliding selector rod joint to the transaxle, coming off a thick ally flange. Note which side of the case (front or back) the steel joint plate is and remove (13mm).
This will allow the rod to drop down with the rearmost cup that the box's selector arm balllocates in. Clean out all the ground and moisture, re-grease heavily, clean ball.. re-assemble.

But really while you're at it, you should pull the sliding joint apart and prepare to be shocked - n, relaly, changing these nylon bushes and re-greasing is what will really make a difeference if they haven't been done for a few yeasr highly likely)..

Best is to go to our c80-90 Wiki (always check first), where a lot of the job is detailed

http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... l_specific

Choose Sloppy Gearchange

Post by **Cate** » 23 Mar 2006, 20:13

Karl, to do the gear likage cup and onion.....

get under there and a little further forward than the cup part is a bracket which holds the linkage onto the gear box,
Undo this bracket, remember how it sits, its possible to put it back wrong,
this will allow the end of the lkinkages to drop,
scoop out all the old grease and muck, clean off the onion too, regrease lots, slot back together, make sure the rubber boot is secure
and do up the bracket.
Bobs yer uncle.

Post by **Cate** » 23 Mar 2006, 20:24

Oi Clive! i spent ages writing that!

Post by **HarryMann** » 23 Mar 2006, 20:47

Sorreee... Its in the Wiki anyway, with a lot lot more...

You were thinking all that through carefully, eh?

How anyone gets those boots to stay on I don't know, unless I'm always buying the wrong one...
but replacing the rear nylon sliding joint bushes makes more diff than anything if they're worn for the ease with which its done (and a few quid)

PS. Most part nos in the Wiki, photos to follow...

Post by **Cate** » 23 Mar 2006, 20:49

Wasn't thinking it through, just yakking at the same time!
You need nice new boots for them to stay on.

Post by **HarryMann** » 23 Mar 2006, 20:57

Nice new boots slip nicely right off my cups... they just don't seem long enough by half! Even a hose-clip has trouble holding them on

Russel? Know what I mean

Post by **syncroandy** » 23 Mar 2006, 21:45

Clive,

I seem to remember the linkage with the nylon ball on it (251 711 221 F) has a grooved flange into which the upper end of that boot should be located. It should then sit in the right place, with it lower wider part snugly fitted around the cup part (251 711 973).

Post by **HarryMann** » 24 Mar 2006, 00:32

Cheers for that,

But (you knew that was coming), with the upper rib nicely located in that groove, the lower extension needs to be a fair bit longer on both my syncros, because as soon as the lever is waggled, it just slips up and off...
so time to check my part Nos I suppose?

Yet, if other's don't slip off, how do they get filled with crud, as so many report (Cate included) - do they perish and tear that often?

Post by **syncroandy** » 24 Mar 2006, 08:45

We can investigate at CF ? If there's time..