The First of many GTi questions......sorry

Post by **ROSS** » 19 Mar 2006, 14:20

My new engine just turned up on friday, I've had a brief look around and there is something i'm not too familiar with. The inlet manifold and the exhaust manifold are on the same side of the engine, is this going to be a problem? Is there any way around having to have the engine mounted on an angle so i can get to the inlet manifold easier in the event of a problem? The engine is a 1.8l 8v from a Mk2 golf the code is PB, has anyone had any experience with this swap.

Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated

Cheers, Ross.

Post by **andylen** » 19 Mar 2006, 15:20

No probs mounting at the angle, but manfold hits the chassis rail at the front end. You can either take a blow torch and beat it in, or cut a section out about 2 inch square and refbricate it. If you diesel engine is still in then you can see what to do by removing manifold and putting the pb one on instead. Hope this helps.

Post by **HarryMann** » 19 Mar 2006, 15:25

PB's are used quite a bit s alternative engines. Canted over with JX kit unless you want it stuck up through engine hatch cover.

Post by **ROSS** » 19 Mar 2006, 17:23

Yeah I understand the need to mount the engine at the angle it was the fact that once you do this with the PB the inlet manifold was going to be underneath the engine rather than on top because it's on the same side as the exhaust manifold. Has this not been any kind of hassle to anyone else during future maintenance?

Post by **HarryMann** » 19 Mar 2006, 18:00

If you clean it all up and put it all together nicely, why would you need access, as long as you can get at the manifold/downpipe joint should you need to... which I think you can. Not that I'm speaking from personal experience, although the DoDokas Project group have just put a 2-litre in one, and DH is making up a manifold to pipe joint for it. Maybe drop him a pmail (Diamond hell), and many others have done this too...

Post by **ROSS** » 25 Apr 2006, 12:40

Right second question:

the swap is going quite well however...... as the new engine is common rail injection controled by an ecu will I need to install some kind of lift pump or otherwise inorder to get the rail up to an appropriate opperating pressure? Also is there any need to fit a fuel cut off switch, I've heard they are a legal requirement; or does the ecu do this automatically, I think it takes a reading from the crankshaft possition sensor so i would assume it knows when the engine has stopped?

Thanks for an help.

Post by **andysimpson** » 25 Apr 2006, 20:15

ROSS wrote:Right second question:

the swap is going quite well however...... as the new engine is common rail injection controled by an ecu will I need to install some kind of lift pump or otherwise inorder to get the rail up to an appropriate opperating pressure? Also is there any need to fit a fuel cut off switch, I've heard they are a legal requirement; or does the ecu do this automatically, I think it takes a reading from the crankshaft possition sensor so i would assume it knows when the engine has stopped?

Thanks for an help.

You should only need a main fuel pump and not a lift pump aswell if you mount the pump low down.

The ecu controls the pump, it will stop if the engine does.

Post by **ROSS** » 26 Apr 2006, 07:53

Nice one, is there any kind of specific pump I'll need?

Does anyone have a wiring diagram or explanasion of how to wire the engine into the van? The mechanics I can handle but wiring is usually a bit of a mystery, even the basics might be some help as I have a mate who has offered to help and he might be able to decipher any explanasion given. Once I've got it going I could put some sort of step by step on my journal thingy.

Right gonna crack on and get the engine put back together this week and hopefully mount it, worry about everything else next week!

Cheers all.

Post by **Diamond Hell** » 26 Apr 2006, 08:19

Chassis rail meet sledge hammer - should sort it.

Provided you're using Digifant you should only need to power up the ECU and the rest will pretty much look after itself, provided it's all hooked up. The temp and oil pressure wiring should all just hook back up into the same wires as the PB has pretty much the same sensors, especially if you use T25 diesel water housings!

Post by **ROSS** » 12 May 2006, 07:47

Thanks Diamond you're a star, however I need a loom for the ecu are they easy for the novice to make or will I need a load of gear to do it? I would imagine the plugs are the biggest bit to worry about I can get plenty of wire from work.

I was thinking of getting the haynes for the golf the engine came from would this be a good idea? Or should i get one of these

http://www.datamanuals.net/vwcompp.htm

seem fairly comprehensive and cheaper than a haynes what do you think?

Post by **Diamond Hell** » 12 May 2006, 08:01

You didn't get the loom with the ECU?!

Something of a school-boy error.

Go find a Golf2 GTI with the same ECU as yours in a scrappy and pull the loom from the fusebox onwards.

Post by **HarryMann** » 12 May 2006, 08:28

Oops, shouldn't we call that a Syed, so Ross, go Badger a breaker

My 'Syed' was not getting the VIN from a Subaru donor vehicle, but then I've got a good 'excuse' for that (oops, isn't that a Syed squared

)

Post by **andylen** » 12 May 2006, 19:12

I have a brain and loom here. If you need one. Drop me a line swanseavw@yahoo.co.uk

Post by **andylen** » 12 May 2006, 19:14

The loom is self contained and only needs 3-4 wires to it. Not from the fusebox it plugs in near the brain. Simple to wire up.

Post by **ROSS** » 28 May 2006, 18:18

ok new question.

the gearbox input shaft.... does it come out without removing the final drive from the box or can you get it with everything in place? I can see a circlip and the new shaft has an internal thread so i'd assume these are the only things that keep it in place? haynes are no help when it comes to gearboxes so if anyone can help i might be able to get my engine mounted next weekend!!