So, I had to call the RAC out today.

[eric]

Blimey, how do I explain this ...... Um, 1/ well I've noticed an intermittant squeaking noise that seems to come from the back of the bus for the last few days.
This morning however:
2/ The red light on the temperature guage come on and stayed on throughout half an hour driving around Caerphilly, (stopping, starting, going up and down dales etc etc) but the indicator did not even go past the little starting block, so I thought `Oh, the engine's not overheating then` and carried on.

3/ Then the CD stopped playing and the engine sort of died, so I pulled in. (I was lucky that a space was right by me). I sat there and contemplated. I remember that the LPG bloke who fixed a gismo (cost £75) who last week also replaced several rubber water hoses due to the fact they were perished and when I picked up the bus, he told me to keep an eye on the coolant.

4/ Anyway, I thought somethings not right so I called out the RAC and the bloke who showed up showed me where the expansion reservoir was (behind the number-plate) which was although low, was not empty and he told me to fill it up with anti-freeze. He then reached down into the engine compatment (on the left of the engine) and fiddled with something, then he turned on the engine and the red light went off! He told me that he's worked on these vehicles before and that he re-set something (I forget the name now). So, Bob's your Uncle and off he when. Great I thought.

5/ Only, bugger me, within 250 yds the bloody red light came on again!!

Any suggestions folks?

I've considered the following: A. Shoot bus
B. Shoot myself
or C. Take it (somehow) to my usual garage.

My big problem is explaining to him what the problem is.

If you guys can understand my drivel, you are a better man then me.

Any info you can give is appreciated. Please bear in mind the lack of my knowledge regarding motor vehicles.

Eric.

[tonytech]

OK....
You probably dont have an air cooled engine!!!! but it would really help if you told us a little more, Dieslel or Petrol, and size if possible,

More than likely the connector is loose on the top of the expansion tank, Not the one behind the No plate.

RED LIGHT MEANS STOP.
If you loose all the cooling water, the light comes on, you have seconds before the engine overheats and CRUNCH.

T

[1664]

but the indicator did not even go past the little starting block, so I thought `Oh, the engine's not overheating then` and carried on.

If there's no water in the system the indicator will show cold. The temperature sensor has to be in contact with the coolent water in order to register it's temperature, If it's surrounded by air it won't register anything. Another bad sign is if you can't get any warm air out of the van heater.

[eric]

Awww, thanks lads for responding.
TONY.
1/ She's a 1987 VW Caravelle GL-Syncro. Duel fuel (LPG/Petrol) watercooled ... 2.1 inj. Prop is off at the moment.
2/ Points you have made .......... taken on board.

1664.
1/ Points you have made ............ taken on board.


OK, so can I fill the radiator (wherever the cap is?) or can I simply fill the expansion chamber up? I wondering why the RAC bloke didn't fill it up mind......... we were next to a pub, so easy access to a source afterall. What do you guys think was the thing he reset?

Coolant = water then?

Don't give up on me just yet ......... please, I'm trying to understand.

Eric.

[1664]

I think I'm correct in saying that these vans don't like tap water because of all the contaminates in it. De-ionised/distilled water is best (apparently).

[tonytech]

Top up tank is behind number plate.
Expansion tank is behind left tail light.
Check the level in the expansion tank.

Check the Wiki (hammer icon ) above right for info on topping up and bleeding these vans.

Coolant is dual purpose, prevents freezing and prevents corrosion of engine inards.

T

[eric]

Right Tony. So, as I understand it, this bus has no normal radiator to top up then. So if I fill up both the plastic reservoirs with anti-freeze that will do the trick then?

BTW, what did the RAC bloke fiddle around with? He definitely said he had `reset` it. Oh, before I forget, he recommended replacement of `The Breather Hose.` He showed me how it was sort of flattened. I guess it was about between 5.53in to 6.87in. Can't be more accurate because I didn't have a rule with me.

Yes, I did have a dekko at WIKI, but apart from the blinking/steady red light info, it didn't help me. One of the reservoirs looked as if it was sort of blueish. ....... coolant or anti-freeze? I don't have to taste it to find out do I?

I can't you guys enough for your patience. Should I ever get to a meeting ........ beers on me.

Look forward to your workings out as to what the hell I'm on about.

Eric.

[tonytech]

The radiator is at the front, 15 feet from the engine. There is a bleed screw at the top, but no means to top it up.

As I said in my first post, on top of the Expansion tank there is a sensor that checks the coolant level. Sometimes the connector comes loose and needs reseating.

T

[Aidan]

Eric, get RAC out again and get them to recover it to your friendly garage, he can call me if he needs anything explaining, but basically fill the expansion tank with water/antifreeze mix (50/50), start engine, remove cap again and keep topping up till it won't take anymore, cap on, then bleed the radiator till no more air comes out, cap off again and top up again, cap on and let it come up to temp and tstat open and rad get hot, check rad hot all the way to top, bleed again if not. Ensure the darlek is connected to top up tank, fill top up tank to max level mark with neat antifreeze and go for a drive up and down some hills, stop and let cool down, then check levels in both tanks, expansion should be at least 9/10 full and top up below max, top up with mix.

[eric]

Dear Tony and Aidan and anyone else,
Thanks for your kind advices.

My first job at 8.30am this morning is to ring Andy, my main man in the garage to ascertain whether he can `fit` the bus into his work schedule for today.
If he says `Yes,` then, bearing in mind he is garage is located about 2.5mls from me (bus is at my home), on a flat route, do you guys think I should take a chance and drive the bus to him?

However, if he says `No go Eric` then I'm going to have to try and do it myself.

Some of my considerations/worries are as follows:
1/ How do I get to the radiator? I know it's located in the front of the bus, but I can't see it anywhere under the dash-board. So, I'm outside, looking at the grill, lights and bumper ....... what do I do next? I don't have any tools. From what I can gather, the radiator does not have a normal screw-top (the one that if you unscrew it when engine is hot, squirts boiling water everywhere), just a `bleeding valve` whatever that looks like. If I can find this valve, do I just turn it and air hisses out of it, signifying there's air in the radiator or something? Oh, by the way, I don't have any tools, apart from a hammer.

2/ Info from WIKI tells me that there are all sorts of different colours of anti-freeze and it seems to be vital that one should not mix them. At least that's the impression I'm getting. The stuff in mine looks blueish, but to other folk it may appear greenish, so I'm nervous about making a mistake because I would have to get taxis here there and everywhere.

Thanks for your continuing help fellas, I am trying my best to understand.

Eric.

[KarlT]

Sounds like the guy who fitted the new hoses didn't bleed the system afterwards.

[ermie571]

Eric,

first things first, I am a girly, so If I can do it, you can.

Second things second...have a go yourself first...even if its only just looking.

Third things third....don't be afraid (ok, be afraid, very afraid)

Fourth things ok, that's enough of that....

Right....if it were me, I would be aproaching the van with courage. I would address van thus (and have recently) "Ok old girl, you are not quite right...lets have a ganders and see what's what. Go gently with me, I'm learning, so don't expect it to be right all at once!"

Van thus addressed, we have stated boundaries. This gives confidence.

1. Put key in boot hatch. Open said hatch. Gain cofidence from said operation going correctly and boot not smacking you on the bonce.
2. Twiddle twidly things that hold engine cover in place and remove cover. If you manage this with a metal cover without smacking sommat in the van, or dropping it on your toes, brilliant! Plastic covers much lighter. Removed successfully? More confidence.
3. Tell the van (it has a name, right?) how lovely the engine is, and that you know how hard he/she tries to stay on the road, and that yo will do your best to get it working properly, and boy do you miss drivbing it - said van feels loved...)
4. You are looking at the van's engine, right? stare down to the LEFT, in the engine bay, but nearest to you. See a plastic container? This is the EXPANSION TANK. (oh, this is the bit that will squiret hot boiling water at you when the engine is warm....its the equivilent of your "normal" radiator cap) It has a blue or black cap. If the engine is cold, you can remove the hose that goes to the cap, tuck it out of the way...BUT POINTING UP, OR WATER/COOLANT WILL DRAIN OUT OF IT FROM YOUR TOP UP TANK.
5. Look at your cap. Is it genuine VW? Any manufacturer markings? Is there a date on top? Just replaced mine as this part failing can cause overheating problems. Mine says 2008 on it. They are about a tenner from VW or from brickwerks.
6. Ok, now look at the coolant level....is is right to the brim....and I mean RIGHT TO THE BRIM?
7. You will see two wires going to the top of the expansion bottle. They are connected to a sensor that lights up that little red light on your dash if the coolant gets too low. That light also flashes if it gets to hot. So if its cold, and the light is flashing, it could be telling you Hey, my coolant is low!! ALWAYS stop, and have a quick check of the EXPANSION bottle to make sure its full (if engine warm, you should be able to see the level of the coolant, or rock the bus to determine level). However, these sensors do go faulty, and return a warning when coolant is fine.
8. If there is water in the system, now is the time to check the water pump. I have a 2.1, and the pump is on the left hand side of the engine, nearest the hatch, at the top of the big metal pipe. I check my pump by leaving the cap of the expansion tank, and getting hubby to start the van. Imeediately, you should see water circulating in the tank. It will be very clear. If your pump has died, you will get no circulation, and therefore overheating.
9. now go to the front of the van. Look at your grill around the lights. This is what you remove to get to the radiator. I need a flat head screwdriver to quarter turn the plastic screws along the top of your grill. Once released, with a bit of wiggling the grill comes away. Voila, there's your rad!! On the left hand side as you look at it, there is a 13mm bolt on the top of the side pipe of the rad. This is where you bleed the rad. I am not writing out instructions as this is well covered on the forums.

having done all those checks, and found the rad, put it all back together, re-assure the van that it done good......and post your findings on here. You will get more advice. And you will feel good in that you know a little more about your van. Members will be able to let you know what to do to top it up, bleed it etc etc.

Me, I can top up and bleed the thing all on my own now (ok, help from hubby required, but at least I have some idea of what I am doing!!)

Good Luck

ps - hope this has helped - not too obvious. Oh, and get youself the following tools....a 13mm ring and open spanner, a set of screw drivers. Others will come along, but start there!!!

Em
x

[Pepperami]

Nice one Emma. I think i could do this now

[tonytech]

Great post Emma.... Get a job writing repair guides for Haynes or Bentley???
T

[Vanagonman]

OK....
You probably dont have an air cooled engine!!!! but it would really help if you told us a little more, Dieslel or Petrol, and size if possible,

More than likely the connector is loose on the top of the expansion tank, Not the one behind the No plate.

RED LIGHT MEANS STOP.
If you loose all the cooling water, the light comes on, you have seconds before the engine overheats and CRUNCH.

T

UHM, he did say "LPG" and "Temp Light" - two items which usually means he is cursed with a WBX engine of some sort.