What's the best solution for insulation of panels and floor

Post by **stuartrolfe** » 28 Nov 2008, 10:18

I'm thinking of rockwool or silver coated bubble wrap.
Anybody got any views on the pros and cons of each?

Thanks, in advance

Post by **KarlT** » 28 Nov 2008, 10:40

No, but interested in responses.

The main worry I can think of is condensation. Trapping water.

Post by **gsmoke** » 28 Nov 2008, 10:50

If you do a search for insulation, there's loads of good info on here.
I've just done mine with the silver foil bubble wrap and I'm well pleased. I wouldn't use rockwool as it holds moisture and will result in rust.

Post by **ringo** » 28 Nov 2008, 11:17

Thermowrap is the stuff i used which came recommended off here...

Ringo

Post by **Nicola&Tony** » 28 Nov 2008, 13:16

Thermawrap has been used by a few people on here.

http://www.thermawrap.co.uk/gp_wrap.html

Quite often on offer at B&Q, which means £15 per role instead of £30!

Tony

Post by **Steve P** » 28 Nov 2008, 16:48

Yep after researching it on here I've gone the thermawrap route too. Irish Keet had posted a good thread on the subject with a link to his photos.

Steve

Post by **lloyd** » 28 Nov 2008, 17:23

Remember that Thermawrap instructions say have a minimum of 25mm airspace on each side of it to get their specified insulation rating.. That's 25mm from van skin to Thermawrap, and 25mm from Thermawrap to panels.

Mind I don't know of anything else that's as good. Am planning to use it in our camper and won't have the 25mm spacing in topper. Think I can do it in side panels and doors with spacer strips to keep it center.

Website · Post by **syncrosimon** » 28 Nov 2008, 19:11

I used stick on bitumen flashing tape on the panels for sound deadening, then spray liberally with waxoil, then fill voids with blocks of rockwool, in slabs. Pack the places you cant reach with the slab rockwool with normal loose insulation so that every last recess is filled. Then so long as there is insulation touching metalwork you will have no condensation.

On my army ambulance it survived 15 Finnish years with rockwool type insulation on bare vw metalwork with no probs, and that with a heated interior, cold exterior which should be perfect for rot, but was not.

Post by **fraggers** » 28 Nov 2008, 19:55

i used
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Polystyrene-She ... nvt/210823

[img:161:161]http://www.wickes.co.uk/content/ebiz/wi ... medium.jpg[/img]

This was cut up and jammed into the cavity then taped up with silver gaffer tape then covered the cavity hole with the thermo foil

http://www.wickes.co.uk/FOIL-INSULATION ... nvt/210022
[img:161:161]http://www.wickes.co.uk/content/ebiz/wi ... medium.jpg[/img]

however i am now a little concerned about the condensation forming behind the ploystrene.. I will have to have look.

Post by **mike the van** » 29 Nov 2008, 10:01

I went for the silver bubble wrap, as it fits into narrow spaces and can be doubled up to give the added performance, suppose if the bus is non leaky then the fibre glass route is fine.

Spoke to a building regs mate who reckoned OK that if sealed on the inside from the moist air, something to do with dew point ! That s why sometimes too much insulation in a roof can lead to damp problems, coz the cold point is within the thickness insulation and the insulation gets damp,
Keeping it dry is essential

Mike

2.0 A/C not so air cold !

Post by **lloyd** » 29 Nov 2008, 10:33

using a vapor barrier behind panels keeps condensation caused by dewpoint from happening.

Ideal would be a one way barrier that breaths into van but stops moisture fron getting in. Tyvek might work. It is used for outside of outside wall before siding on frame construction. Have not seen it used on inside between room/plasterboard and insulation. Have used rolls of plastic between plasterboard and insulation to keep moisture out of insulation, but outside of insulation is tyvek over plywood under siding, so will breath moisture out, but not let it in. Problem is sealed area if it ever does get a leak and let moisture in... once in it can never get out.

Post by **dugcati** » 30 Nov 2008, 21:45

With a vapour barrier in placec between the insulation and the vehicle interior - would drilling a few well chosen breather holes not help with the old moisture issue?

Post by **lloyd** » 30 Nov 2008, 22:03

dugcati wrote:With a vapour barrier in placec between the insulation and the vehicle interior - would drilling a few well chosen breather holes not help with the old moisture issue?

Possibly, but if any moisture gets in through holes, the only way out is as vapor out the top.. If it can't get out the top it will condense and run back down.

Kinda a catch 22.

Dewpoint and all.. warm air hold more moisture then cool/cold air. warm air goes in through holes and bingo.. dewpoint .. condenses. To get it out it must be warmed up to at least the temp it was before it condenses and then be moved out.

Winter camping is worst as our breathing and cooking release lots of moisture in warm space. If this warm moist air gets behind panels... or moisture condenses on windows or metal and leaks behind panels it's very hard to get it out again.

I don't know the solution, only the potential problems... so not a big helps .. Sorry

Post by **ajp** » 01 Dec 2008, 19:23

I'm glad this topic has come up as it is something I'm considering doing next year.
I have an Idea and would be interested to what other opions on it are...

Very basic really as its highly likley that condensation will ocour how about sealing all the inside of the panels with either underseal or good old fashioned hammerite to prevent the moisture from getting to the metal?

Post by **ajp** » 16 Dec 2008, 22:45

I've been thinking about this again... Thermowrap attached to the skin of the van with contact adehsive? No gap between insulation and metal means you can't get condensation between them but would you get condensation then on the inside of the insulation?

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