Engine cuts out at low revs!

[budbombpipe]

Hi, im havin a problem with my 1.9 watercooled T25 automatic. It starts up after afew turns of the key and runs fine and ticks over. When i have set off, after about a mile the engine cuts out at low revs. When i approach a junction or slow for a parked car the engine just dies. I can restart with the key almost straight away and the engine starts but wont tick over or run at low revs. The carb is a 2E PIERBURG. I have taken the carb off and can find no blockages. Anyone have any ideas to cure the problem? Thanks.

[kevtherev]

your Auto choke may have stopped working.

There is a spring inside the auto coke housing that can and does break.

as the engine warms the choke also decreases. it may be stepping down too soon or not at all (there are three stages)

Do you set the choke before starting from cold, by fully depressing the accelerator pedal, releasing, then turnover the engine?
This sets the choke for cold conditions and also raises the idle speed until the engine reaches a warmer temp

[scamperman]

Hi,
I had exactly the same problem up until recently,would cut out as you slowed down at junctions,traffic etc.Seems to be common Pierberg carb probs.I purchased a carb service kit and a couple of hours of cleaning with compressed air and carb cleaner (float chamber was well gunked up)van runs an absolute treat now.35 quid well spent,also worth changing the fuel filter underneath .Theres a link on the WIKI to Gower and Lee,carb specialists in Watford,all bits on the shelf,service kits,choke pull down etc,really helpful and super-quick delivery.
James

[budbombpipe]

your Auto choke may have stopped working.

There is a spring inside the auto coke housing that can and does break.

as the engine warms the choke also decreases. it may be stepping down too soon or not at all (there are three stages)



Do you set the choke before starting from cold, by fully depressing the accelerator pedal, releasing, then turnover the engine?

I will check the auto choke housing tomorrow.

I normally turn the key and give abit of throttle. I will try your method. Starting has become harder now its colder.

Thanks
Paul

[budbombpipe]

Hi,
I had exactly the same problem up until recently,would cut out as you slowed down at junctions,traffic etc.Seems to be common Pierberg carb probs.I purchased a carb service kit and a couple of hours of cleaning with compressed air and carb cleaner (float chamber was well gunked up)van runs an absolute treat now.35 quid well spent,also worth changing the fuel filter underneath .Theres a link on the WIKI to Gower and Lee,carb specialists in Watford,all bits on the shelf,service kits,choke pull down etc,really helpful and super-quick delivery.
James

The carb seems quite clean inside, jets seem clear. What do you get in the carb service kit?
Thanks
Paul

[Mocki]

check your vac pipes for leaks, they may look ok, but the rubber end bits go porus under the cloth covering.........

[billy739]

check that the wires going to the carb are all live with the ignition on ,with the ignition on , connect and disconnect the wire to the long (gold colour) item screwed into the carb ,it should click.

[budbombpipe]

Bought and fitted a carb rebuild kit. Starts first time now but still cut out when warm. I then tested the gold thing (fuel cut out??) on the front of carb and this was working but when i tested the wire going to it, there was no power. I fed i live wire to it and now all works ok
Thanks for all help & advice.

[woodguru]

Hi, im havin a problem with my 1.9 watercooled T25 automatic. It starts up after afew turns of the key and runs fine and ticks over. When i have set off, after about a mile the engine cuts out at low revs. When i approach a junction or slow for a parked car the engine just dies. I can restart with the key almost straight away and the engine starts but wont tick over or run at low revs. The carb is a 2E PIERBURG. I have taken the carb off and can find no blockages. Anyone have any ideas to cure the problem? Thanks.

Hi, I have been having exactly the same problem with my T25 auto, I only got it just before xmas so am still getting used to it in this freezing weather! I had trouble starting it when cold so I put in new plugs and battery, but I have still found after getting it started, when it has warmed up it feels like it's misfiring and wants to stall at junctions etc, I'm assuming this is because when it's still cold the auto choke is working, this makes the engine idle faster, as soon as the choke cuts out the revs drop making it want to stall. I have been told that replacing all the leads, distributor cap and rotor arm should sort this out, if that doesn't work I'm going to adjust the idle speed very slightly. Another thing to check out is the condition of all the vacuum pipe connections, I found one connector on the back of the carb was made from a piece of household three core cable insulation, having replaced that with some 3 mm diesel hose has made quite a difference. I'm no mechanic but these are all low cost, easy steps to take, anything more technical than that and I take to someone who knows what it's all about especially messing with the carb

[Martin]

other thing to check with this problem isthe vac pipe that works the brake servo.
goes through the left have front of the engine bay bulkhead,
also this pipe should have a one way valve in it.
pull the pipe off you should be able to suck on the pipe but not blow up it.
the tell tale signs that the one way valve isn't working is the engine stall if you pump the brake pedel at tick over.

the most likly cause of poor cold running is the carb freezing.

[woodguru]

Something else I've noticed on this issue is that once the van is going it's fine, but if I stop the engine to pop into shop etc, it seems much likely to stall, even tho it's been running fine, I can remember my old opel manta doing exactly the same, that had an auto choke too, and a lot of people changed them to manual.

I still haven't got around to changing all the leads etc so I'll let ya know if it does the trick