AAZ wont run still - how do i bleed the injectors?

[ringo]

So far i have rechecked the timing and thats spot on. I havent touched the pump so technically it should be running exactly the same as before i took the head off (running fine).

Is there a special way of bleeding injectors? Im clutching at straws now...

Thanks

Ringo

[ELVIS]

as someone is turning engine over , slacken the (17mm?) nut/olive on top of the injectors (one at a time) that clamps the metal fuel line into the top of the injector.
Will be quite obvious when any/all air is purged- be careful for spraying diesel.

[ringo]

as someone is turning engine over , slacken the (17mm?) nut/olive on top of the injectors (one at a time) that clamps the metal fuel line into the top of the injector.
Will be quite obvious when any/all air is purged- be careful for spraying diesel.

Thanks Elvis...

Bugger - i've already done that.

I dont know what to do apart from take the head off again and assemble it.

Should of stuck with the 1Y.....

Ringo

[markscoot]

Dunno how similar they are but there is no way my 1600 diesel would start without the cold start plugs. Maybe check that side of it.
Is there any smoke or sign of firing?
If you have clear fuel lines check for bubles in the line.
Like the other fella said, make sure that you have plenty of fuel coming out of each injector pipe when you undo each one. Also check that you have a good live feed to the fuel cut off solonoid on the pump.

[Fully Loaded Cali']

If you've had the head off the pump would of been off too? Make sure the pump is in the correct pos'n when re-fitted - i replaced a pump on my crappy JX and couldn't get the bugger started, had to play around with the pump position until the engine would fire. Then got the lift set afterwards (acts like a distributor but of fuel and not spark).

You probably know this anyway but it may help.


Ian.

[ringo]

The pump remains in situ as its fitted to the block - so i havent touched it at all.

The engine starts, it just sounds like its running terribly and wont idle, kicks out lots of white and black smoke......

Im going to re-try the timing again. It is possible that the pump timing is a notch out (here's hoping).....

Thanks

Ringo

[Russel]

When doing any work on timing belt your pump will not be exactly the same as it was before. You will need to reset it with a dial guage to get it spot on.
Russel

[Fully Loaded Cali']

Yeh, sounds like a timing problem to me.

OR...

You aven't gone an put petrol init???

[ringo]

Sounds like i need to buy a dial gauge then...

Thanks guys

Ringo

[Grumpy Midget]

sorry to here your woes ringo been following your thread,had the same problems with my 1Y when i first installed my conversion, my pump was the problem, sounded like it was running on 3 cyl,
You need to take the pump off and take it to a diesel specialist and have it setup on a bench they will check it out and reset it up and i also asked the technician to set it up to fire on No 1 cylinder, and to indicate with a marker which was No 1, on the pump, then the firing order would correspond with my injector pipes to cylinders. 1-4-3-2, this only cost me £20.
Have you slackened or taken off the pump pully completely???, reason is if that big nut in the centre of the pulley was removed you have lost your timing, there is 3 outer nuts (13mm spanner size) I think ? these are the ones you remove to take the pump pulley off. the pulley can go back on in any possition. Did you lock the pump pulley when you first ligned up all your timing marks before removing the head,
When i took my head off I did remove exaust box, inlet and exaust manifolds, I found the head was a lump never mind with manifolds still attached, to heavy on my own,

[Grumpy Midget]

Hi Ringo.
another thing that could give you erattic running is when you timed it all up prior to fitting the head, did you back off the timming so as to send the pistons down the bore slightly as the pistons if you had noticed before the 3 hole gasket goes on the piston is higher than the cylinder bore, and I think its the exhaust valve is open on No1 and No3 so when tightning down the head these are putting exessive pressure on piston crowns, ie damaging the valve stems and seals, in the head,
Timming on the 1Y AND AAZ has got to be spot on as there is very little clearance between piston and valves,
I think you have not had the pump pulley locked when you have fitted the timming belt, if it was anything like mine it was a tw-t to get the belt on and when adjusting the belt tensioner I had to lock up the flywheel, I did remove my pump when fitting my Head 2 twice

[ringo]

Thanks for the help guys.

When i said "the timing is spot on" i was completely wrong. The pump timing was a notch out.

I have rectified this and the van is now running really well. I am very relieved!

Ringo

[ringo]

when adjusting the belt tensioner I had to lock up the flywheel,

How did you lock your flywheel?

Ringo

[jamesc76]

when adjusting the belt tensioner I had to lock up the flywheel,

How did you lock your flywheel?

Ringo

Glad you got it sorted mate chuffed for you, to lock it up i find jam a srew driver in the teath of the flywheel is easiest way!!!!

[HarryMann]

Glad you got it sorted mate chuffed for you, to lock it up i find jam a srew driver in the teath of the flywheel is easiest way!!!!

Be careful though

I broke a very big (and nice) screwdriver and have heard you can break starter ring gear teeth that way..

So I put screwdriver across bolt heads of... or through (holes in) the clutch housing