Not another headlight question!!!

An alchemy of sparks, copper wire and earth

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hally
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Not another headlight question!!!

Post by hally »

Hi everyone,
After a long while I'm posting again.....Anyway down here in Australia I've got a 1989 2.1 Sunliner conversion. Driving home late the other night Main Beams decided to give up the ghost..

Symptoms
- No main beam
- No Heater fan
- High beams turn on when you hold the flash lever but do not stay on.
- Immobiser does not engage (light correct sequence of lights on dash and allows to start even if you don't hit the remote. However when you turn on high beam engine will cut)
- Heater fan turns on when you hold the flash lever but stops when you release.

Looking at several posts it mentions either Earth issues which I have cleaned and checked. Ignition switch...I have one on order. high beam flash (if this is the issue I'm going to need one in brown (sigh)) or the Load reduction relay.

My first question is if you were using an ohm meter what would should be the continuity be like on the 30,56,56a and 56b terminals on the flasher switch.

My Second quesiton is what position should the load reduction relay be in when 1. ignition is on 2. Engine is running 3. engine is being started (Open or Closed).

I have not checked to see if I have indicators or wipers.....No fuses appear to be blown.

Any help would be really really grateful.

Cheers
Hally[/list]
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syncrosimon
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Post by syncrosimon »

Welcome back, I bet there are a large number of Brits that would disapear of to Oz in the blink of an eye if we had the chance. Bring back the £10 scheme I say!!

First of all I would check with a volt meter that you have 12v on the fuses for the items you list, if you have check forwards to the load, if you do not check backwards towards the switches.

If they were all working, and suddenly stopped, then something has fallen off, moved, or anyway changed to make such a big difference. That is what I would be looking for, had you recently changed or adapted something.

My syncro did a similar thing night before last, lights would not work as they should, low water level light flashing, turned out Louise had knocked the starter battery isolator switch and turned it off with her foot, and somehow the van was running entirely through the two leisure batteries, the lights were working, but dim, and engine would want to stall when switched on high beam.
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hally
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Post by hally »

Well if the $ gets down to the levels they say it will. There will be a lot of very cheap holidays here....That's if you have GBP to spend....

I'll take another look tonight and hope that the ignition switch I orderd turns up.

Cheers
Hally
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Syncro G
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Post by Syncro G »

Humm, Sounds like the X circuit on the ignition switch isn't working properly if all the X powered circuits aren't working. Normally the headlamps are powered direct off the ignition key X feed rather than off the X relay, though that relay is on the same circuit from the same feed. That means if the headlamps don't work aswell as everything else with an X fead its probubly not the relay at fault. Heater fans and heated screens come via the relay. Try checking the wireing to the headlamp switch - there should be an X wire there, Black with yellow probubly. It should be live when the key is in the run position but dead when its in the off or start position. If it doesn't have power in the run position thats your problem - wireing between headlamp SW and ignition SW, or ignition SW itself. If there is power in run position check the relay with "18" on the back and the feed into the heater switch. Personly my money is on the Ign switch or wireing between that and the headlamp switch. The wireing between the headlamp switch and X relay sounds like its working, as does the relay as when you use the flash switch (I'll bet when the headlamp switch is in the on position) its able to power up the X relay from the flasher feed hence your heater works with it - you can do this on any van! The flasher is a seperate feed direct off the battery so always live. Don't try and bodge it to power the headlamps, its a small wire and not designed for headlamp currents for more than a moment.

DOn't have a clue about the emobiliser as they all tend to be wired a bit different and work slightly differently (this is good as if you work out exactly how they work you know how to bypass them!) I suspect you'll find normal service is resumed if you fix the problem above. Its probubly cutting the engine as it thinks some curcuits are powered when they shouldn't be and therefor it must be attempted hotwire. That or the imobiliser itself has failed and is wired so it causes the above fault?

By main beam I'm asuming to you mean proper "headlights" on eather of their beams? If dip still works thats a bit confusing, unless someones fitted relays to the headlamps, in that case it depends how they did it. The position lamps are powered from another feed to the light switch so thats why they still work when the headlamps don't (its also why only the headlamps go out when you turn the key off) All these dipswitches, headlamp switches and X relays are long before you get fuses in the circuits so make sure wireing is good as a fault in these areas will make smoke or worse!
Glen Syncronaut: 113 - 1992 JX Syncro pannel van

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hally
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Post by hally »

Glen,
Than explination is worth a sticky or a wicky! Thanks. I'm going to check this out shortly.

As far as the immob goes it cuts into the starter power and the fuel pump. it also has a connection to ignition, ground, batt 12v and supposedly parking lights (that's the manual, but wiring says different). I will check more closely, but I am wondering if it is hooked to x wire instead of a proper 12v feed..... Either way if I unplug the immob it has no effect......

As I write this is making sense why it cuts if you have not disarmed the immob.

I'm off to check the x on the headlight switch in both key positions

Stay tuned...
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hally
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Post by hally »

There you go....Ignition switch.

So the test is check voltage on black/yellow for 12v in the run position. If nothing then kiss your ignition switch for a replacement.

Now off to pull it out and put everything back to gether.

Thank you

All hail the X circuit explainer Synchro-G. Come to Oz and that's worth a beer or three...ice cold of course.

Cheers
Hally
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hally
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Add ignition switch testing to wiki

Post by hally »

Hmm can't login to wiki to add it in, bummer :(
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lloyd
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Post by lloyd »

PM HarryMann He is the Wiki guru now.
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