On the bellhousing.
Centre bit, clear plastic bit just pulls out.
The bigger green bit will require twattage with a screwdriver and hammer.
There are 3 marks, I presume you are doing the Cambelt?
It's the centre "innie" one you want, thats TDC.
ENGINE TIMING
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Hello
This may be of use to you. I wrote this out when I put my engine in and had to time it as I had changed the diesel pump over from the old engine
Now I am not a mechanic so this may not be explained exactly as it should be - hopefully it can give you some guidance. It was written from an explanation my mechanic gave me so I could get the engine installed and running. There are some tools you need to time the engine properly. I have some pictures pulled from a h@ynes manual for a Mk1 1500D which show you where these tools go if you would like them.
Cam
• Turn the cam pulley until you can see an off horizontal slot in the back of #4 (at rear of engine block). THIS IS TDC #1.
• Insert the cam locking tool into this slot. This tool is handed and can only go in one way round. Also you cannot see the slot if you are 180 degrees out as the slot is off centre.
• Loosen the cam pulley bolt ready for when you put the timing belt on - this will be explained later.
Crank
• Remove the plastic plug from the gearbox.
• Turn crank over until an 'O' or '0' marker can be seen in the plug hole. THIS IS TDC#1.
• If there is no marker! - remove the #1 injector. Note there is a washer at the bottom that prevents fuel blow back - you need to remove this too. Then insert a long screwdriver into the injector hole and rotate the crank until the screwdriver is at its highest point. THIS IS TDC#1.
Fuel Injector Pump
• Line up the small hole in the Fuel pulley with the same size hole on the block/ pump mounting. THIS IS TDC#1.
• Insert the locking bar into this hole.
Now all 3 pulleys are lined up and the Fuel & Cam pulleys are locked at TDC#1.
Timing belt
• Fit the new belt onto the pulleys in this order. Crank - Fuel - Cam - Tensioner (anti-clockwise) - taking care not to move the crank pulley.
• With belt in place you can tighten the tensioner. When you tighten the tensioner the cam pulley is designed to slip. The pulley will slip on its own as the cam is locked in place still. The cam pulley will slip as its on a tapered mount and has no woodruff key. The cam pulley should still be slightly loose.
• This is so that when you tighten the timing tensioner you don't pull the cam timing out - which would happen if the pulley were tightly bolted in place.
• So tighten the tensioner with the tool that resembles an angle-grinder locking tool.
• Check that the crank pulley has not moved.
• Once the tensioner is tight you can then tighten the cam pulley.
Replace the parts you removed and test. Turn over by hand first if you would like to confirm that nothing is wrong!
Hope this is helpful
Lee.
This may be of use to you. I wrote this out when I put my engine in and had to time it as I had changed the diesel pump over from the old engine
Now I am not a mechanic so this may not be explained exactly as it should be - hopefully it can give you some guidance. It was written from an explanation my mechanic gave me so I could get the engine installed and running. There are some tools you need to time the engine properly. I have some pictures pulled from a h@ynes manual for a Mk1 1500D which show you where these tools go if you would like them.
Cam
• Turn the cam pulley until you can see an off horizontal slot in the back of #4 (at rear of engine block). THIS IS TDC #1.
• Insert the cam locking tool into this slot. This tool is handed and can only go in one way round. Also you cannot see the slot if you are 180 degrees out as the slot is off centre.
• Loosen the cam pulley bolt ready for when you put the timing belt on - this will be explained later.
Crank
• Remove the plastic plug from the gearbox.
• Turn crank over until an 'O' or '0' marker can be seen in the plug hole. THIS IS TDC#1.
• If there is no marker! - remove the #1 injector. Note there is a washer at the bottom that prevents fuel blow back - you need to remove this too. Then insert a long screwdriver into the injector hole and rotate the crank until the screwdriver is at its highest point. THIS IS TDC#1.
Fuel Injector Pump
• Line up the small hole in the Fuel pulley with the same size hole on the block/ pump mounting. THIS IS TDC#1.
• Insert the locking bar into this hole.
Now all 3 pulleys are lined up and the Fuel & Cam pulleys are locked at TDC#1.
Timing belt
• Fit the new belt onto the pulleys in this order. Crank - Fuel - Cam - Tensioner (anti-clockwise) - taking care not to move the crank pulley.
• With belt in place you can tighten the tensioner. When you tighten the tensioner the cam pulley is designed to slip. The pulley will slip on its own as the cam is locked in place still. The cam pulley will slip as its on a tapered mount and has no woodruff key. The cam pulley should still be slightly loose.
• This is so that when you tighten the timing tensioner you don't pull the cam timing out - which would happen if the pulley were tightly bolted in place.
• So tighten the tensioner with the tool that resembles an angle-grinder locking tool.
• Check that the crank pulley has not moved.
• Once the tensioner is tight you can then tighten the cam pulley.
Replace the parts you removed and test. Turn over by hand first if you would like to confirm that nothing is wrong!
Hope this is helpful
Lee.
_________________
Club 80 90 #1569
1988 1.6TD Reimo
Club 80 90 #1569
1988 1.6TD Reimo