glow plugs

Post by **el sketcho** » 18 Sep 2008, 12:41

The glow plug light on the dash of my van seems to take forever to go off, even if I've been driving it for a while. Do I need to replace them? Is it an easy job?
Also when I've been on a long drive like on the motorway, when I come off and pull away from a set of lights the van tends to judder quite a lot in first. I don't know what would be causing this. Does anybody have any ideas?

Andy

Post by **lambrettalee** » 18 Sep 2008, 13:57

re the judder, has it had a fuel filter change recently, if not it may help to do so ....

Post by **"WEAZLECHIN"** » 18 Sep 2008, 19:19

if it starts OK easy, the heater plugs are good.
as for a judder, that sounds like a clutch thing.
someone bought me a metro once with a "judder", they had replaced everything to cure it

except the engine mounting rubbers, the fools

Post by **el sketcho** » 18 Sep 2008, 20:04

cheers for the replies. It starts fine but it takes forever for the light to go out and I'm a bit cautious of starting it before it's gone out.

God I hope it's the fuel filter and not the clutch

Post by **oldiguana** » 18 Sep 2008, 20:23

yep the glowy lights on marladys van take an eon to go out....but never had a prob startin tho

Post by **Andy syncro-nutz** » 18 Sep 2008, 22:56

Glow Plug Temp sender perhaps???

Post by **HarryMann** » 18 Sep 2008, 23:03

What engine is it?
NA or TD?

To help you when adding a technical question to this forum please make sure you give whatever is relevant of the following information:

Year of manufacture
Engine size
Engine code if applicable
left or right hand drive
transmission type: auto/manual
Fuel type: lpg/diesel/petrol

if a camper question then conversion type usually helps with interior queries

In the long run giving this type of information can save time and help you more!

Post by **el sketcho** » 19 Sep 2008, 07:00

It's a 1991, 17D NA, right hand drive.
Sorry about that

Post by **Syncro G** » 23 Sep 2008, 23:24

The temp sender for the heaterplugs is the same type as the one for the dash guage - swap the plugs over, if nothing changes its likely to be the relay or wireing (full heating happens if the temp sender is disconected).

Mine had a dodgy relay, usally heated for 12sec regardless of temp - I'm used to driving an old diesel with manual heaterplugs so I just ignored the light if I didn't think it needed heat, if it didn't fire instantly I turned the key off and had another go waiting a bit. The relay knows when you run the starter so can detect if your being impatient.

My new relay seems to vary delay acording to coolent temp, as it should, but to my mind doesn't heat long enough when cold as it doesn't fire quite as quick. I'm wondering if its the right relay, its number "102" which I got off a 2.4D T4 in the scrappy - same relay as my van had but acording to ETKA they probubly should be different? What number is on the end of your relay? I suspect the later the vehicle the flaster the relay as heaterplugs have got better, but they are interchangerble - Sadly I didn't take any notice to the age of the T4 I got the relay from, looks like some had the same relay as a T3 untill 1995. Will have to keep looking at vans in the scrappy (where relays cost a quid instead of alot).

Post by **HarryMann** » 23 Sep 2008, 23:54

Nice synopsis Glenn!

I used to have light come on for ages and take a guess at it just like you... !
New glows (not sure that makes a diff), sender and clean relay connections, amber light time is now very dependent on engine temp. From cold in summer, maybe 7~10 secs, after a couple of miles wouldn't come on for more than a second or two even after resting for 15 minutes, therafter not at all. Starts lovely but everything's new(ish) so shoud do.

What age/state are your glows?

Post by **Syncro G** » 24 Sep 2008, 00:27

HarryMann wrote:What age/state are your glows?

They looked alright when I swapped the head, busbar is past its best though - broken at one plug so the plug has to hold the two halfs together - probubly means 2 cyls might not get as much amps as possable - its something to fix one day, probubly when a plug burns out.

Just seems like it could do with an extra second or two when cold, feels quicker than the old relay but I haven't timed it (I've only started it a handful of times on the new relay as the van isn't on the road, infact its 100 miles away - both great as I broke the landy this afternoon - thats me walking again!).

What numbers on the end of your relay and whats the part number? Think mines now got a 191911261C "102", same as what came out, but the proper one doesn't have a suffix letter (on ETKA) so maybe mines got a later relay that doesn't run so long? There seems to be alteast 3 types, all externaly simular so its got to be the delay or sender charictoristis that makes the different.

Post by **el sketcho** » 24 Sep 2008, 08:25

Cheers for the replies. Syncro G is the relay you are talking about the one in the rear by the engine in the black box?
Sorry for the dopey question.

Post by **HarryMann** » 24 Sep 2008, 10:02

Yes el, it will be that one he means...

All a bit tight in there isn't it? In fact, due to the large currents used by the glow system and the tight space that area can be a bit of a fire hazard.

There's a 50~55 Amp fusible link in that box - first make sure it hasn't been replaced by a length of copper wire! If it's blown, GSF do them I believe.

I'll be taking a look at my relay today for the markings unless someone chirps up in the meantime, with a relay code/number.

Post by **el sketcho** » 24 Sep 2008, 10:16

actually I changed that relay a while back when the van wouldn't start, later found out it was a flat battery

The old relay has NAGARES TPPSS/7-12 12V on it's side and on the top >PA^-GF15<

Where abouts is the sender?

Post by **HarryMann** » 24 Sep 2008, 11:19

In the back of the head, on the water heater outlet stub, usually... I think it's dual purpose and feeds the water temp gauge too... (same part is possibly used as an oil temp gauge on some engines )

Temp Sender 049 919 501 (0~125 C) 1 pin, Black

... as opposed to the Temp 'Switch' 251 919 521 (104 C) 1 pin, Grey - that fits into the coolant stub exiting side of engine around cyl. No. 3 going to water pump, amongst others