After changing push rod tube seals....

Post by **T25rc** » 04 Sep 2008, 14:33

Do i have to adjust the valves or somthing? With the stuff all bolted back in, or can i just shove the rocker cover back on and drive?

I've found a couple of guides how to do the seals, but none on how to adjust stuff once fitted.

Would anyone care to give me a guide?

Thanks alot, and sorry for the lack of knowledge - this will be my first Aircooled engine work.

Post by **Therunner** » 04 Sep 2008, 16:13

Just swapped one cylinder head on our Aircooled and didn't make any adjustments to the valves

Melvin

Post by **T25rc** » 04 Sep 2008, 19:21

Thats good news, Is it tappets you have to adjust then?

Post by **Therunner** » 04 Sep 2008, 19:54

Same thing

I'm not an expert, but since no one has corrected me, it must not be necessary. May be worth checking your Haynes manual tho.
I went on the assumption that since nothing within the engine had been moved (ie engine not rotated) then all would be the same once everything was reassembled. It ran better than it did before anyway

(see our thread with the photo of the melted head that we took off!

).

Melvin

Post by **Therunner** » 04 Sep 2008, 19:58

However, there may be better advice coming here;

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40070

Melvin

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 04 Sep 2008, 20:47

Quite honestly as long as everything went back to the place from whence it came, you won't need to adjust tappets. Its when you swap stuff around that you need to recheck. Only you know that cos you stripped it

Post by **T25rc** » 04 Sep 2008, 21:26

Awesome, i'll be careful then. Cheers guys

Post by **Laurie** » 05 Sep 2008, 08:02

If you put the push rods back in as they came out, there is no need (really) to adjust.

However.... Its the ideal time to check that the adjustment is as it should be. Valve seats settle, bits wear, and you have the thing open anyway.

Turn the engine until the rotor arm is facing no.1 plug lead and take a look at no.1. Pull the top of the tappet towards you, if it moves, that is 'sprung clearance'. You then back the tappet off until you can feel 'un sprung clearance' Turn the tappet until it touches the valve (The unsprung clearance goes but it may still be possible to pull the tappet back against the sprung clearance) and tighten 1 and 1/2 turns. Don't worry if you can still pull the tappet back against the 'sprung clearance'.

Turn the engine 1/2 turn BACKWARDS and do number 2, 1/2 turn backwards and do number 3, 1/2 turn backwards and do number 4.

When re-fitting rocker covers on the 2 litre, manipulating the clip can be a sod. So.. Tie a piece of rag round the clip, hold the cover in place with one hand, pull outwards on the clip and then upwards so it is best part of the way to its notch. then finish carefully with a screwdriver or whatever.

Post by **joshb** » 05 Sep 2008, 09:36

so if i understand correctly the correct hydraulic adjustment is 1 1/2 turns (360deg +180deg) tight from when the tappet is just touching the valve head after you have slackened the tappet off then gently screwed it back up to touch the valve... is that right?

Post by **Laurie** » 05 Sep 2008, 16:04

Works better than the 2 and 1/2 in some books.

Post by **joshb** » 05 Sep 2008, 21:09

thanks for that

Post by **T25rc** » 06 Sep 2008, 18:06

I didn't bother trying to set up anything, it all went back in as it came out..

Job's a good'n