hello all,
was wondering if anyone has had this problem?
i have a 2.1 dj syncro velle.
the van sometimes, and getting more frequent, runs really rough while driving along and emits puffs of black smoke, this then clears and the van runs fine, then it'll do it again
i've changed the air filter and was thinking of putting some redex in the tank, could it be a mixture issue?
I think CJ is referring to the coolant temperature sensor, which is located on the nearside of the black plastic thermostat housing and is held in with a wire clip and sealed with an O ring. It sends a signal to the ECU to increase fuelling when engine is cold, reducing the fuelling as the engine warms up.
Two wires to a single plug, white from ECU and brown/blue to earth.
Can't be sure of the part number from the VAG online catalog, but it could be...........
temperature sensor / thermostat housing
2 pin blue 20MM / DJ,MV,SR
N 0138128
Mr. Haynes says
coolant temperature sensor resistance (approximately)
at 50 celsius 800 ohms
at 75 celsius 350 ohms
at 100 celsius 200 ohms
Mike
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
thank very much all. i've suspected a wiring loom issue for a couple of weeks now too, central locking packed in, van stalled then wouldn't start even though it was cranking over.
When you have it idling rough (overrich) from, then waggle the wires from T2 sender and see if it suddenly runs cleaner. Try the wires running to the Idle Stabiliser unit too...
Agree with the above, check all the connectors, and clean them up by making and breaking a few times to get the connectors on to clean metal.
The ECU largely works on resistance changes, from the air flow meter, the temp senders, and any resistance in the system from bad connections will make a DJ run rough. A shorting wire will also change the resistance of the injection system, and cause erratic, unstable running, and could also explain the other issues. Don't forget the big plug that goes into the ECU behind the left hand tail lamp. I keep mine dosed in WD-40 or duck oil or similar.
They are also particular about HT leads, make sure they are firmly in place, as they can work loose over time. If you drop all your plugs, they should all be the same colour, if one is markedly different to the others it suggests a HT lead, problem.
If you get your exhaust pipes well wet, then fire up the engine, if you have a miss-firing cylinder you will see that it does not boil off the water so quickly, should take about 20 seconds to completely dry the headers, if one cylinder is struggling it will take a bit longer.
syncrosimon wrote:*SNIP* They are also particular about HT leads, make sure they are firmly in place, as they can work loose over time.
I'd just like to endorse the above comment. It was an HT lead which lead to ours producing black smoke accompanied and a lack of power when in France. Suffice to say Syncrosimon's comment was the cause of our problem. I won't say what happened afterwards as it's too embarrasing!
Also check all the main earthing points (Chassis to engine, chassis to gearbox) to ensure they are clean, as the ECU depends on good earths.
Also check all the main earthing points (Chassis to engine, chassis to gearbox) to ensure they are clean, as the ECU depends on good earths.
Yes, that's especially a given with an MV. Even take a separate heavy earth lead forward from the alternator body to a good earth bolt on the engine firewall. Remake and seal from corrosion all the star earths on the engine and follow them all to a good earth on the l/h flitch mounted components.
