Snaggs is popping over this evening to help me set up my pump timing / cam timing properly. A couple of quieries.
He has the full kit including the dial gauge you screw in.
Does anyone know the procedure for timing these up? is it on the wiki? cant find it if it is.
My plan was to static time it up again using the pins and plates and then once happy with that do the injector pump timing. - but what is it? 10 degree's BTDC?
And whilst I have the rocker cover off I was going to do the last stretch on the head bolts. Can anyone just reconfirm that. is it 90 degrees cold / warm or hot?
1Y questions
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SplendiferousII
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Cam timing--- locking plate with feeler gauges each side-- flywheel tdc on bell housing marker.
Pump timing
start at TDC, preset dial guage 2.5mm, screw into back of pump
turn engine anticlockwise till dial guage stops moving. Zero dial gauge
turn engine clockwise to TDC check reading on dial gauge. On a 1.6T/D it should be 1mm
is this procedure correct ???
what should pump lift be on a 1.9 1Y engine ??
cheers
Pump timing
start at TDC, preset dial guage 2.5mm, screw into back of pump
turn engine anticlockwise till dial guage stops moving. Zero dial gauge
turn engine clockwise to TDC check reading on dial gauge. On a 1.6T/D it should be 1mm
is this procedure correct ???
what should pump lift be on a 1.9 1Y engine ??
cheers
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SplendiferousII
- Registered user
- Posts: 178
- Joined: 01 Aug 2006, 08:09
- 80-90 Mem No: 2893
- Location: Membership No 2893 Cornwall / Gloucestershire
I rang a man who knows a thing or two about diesels and he quite rightly said - "if the dial gauge shows wrong when the pins and plate are all fitted what are you planning to do about that" Basically he said just go with plate in the cam and the pin in the pump and make sure the crank is on TDC. If you have messed with the pump pulley then yes you might need to dial it up again but if not do not touch it.
As to the final pull on the head bolts - dont bother is what he said. We dont get cars back in after 1000 miles to have them redone and never get issues. As long as the bolts have stretched and gone into yield they are ok. You can wind them and wind them but you wont add any more gasket seating stress by doing so. - I might give them a pull regardless.
Still ok for later snaggs?
As to the final pull on the head bolts - dont bother is what he said. We dont get cars back in after 1000 miles to have them redone and never get issues. As long as the bolts have stretched and gone into yield they are ok. You can wind them and wind them but you wont add any more gasket seating stress by doing so. - I might give them a pull regardless.
Still ok for later snaggs?