Changed the Push rod seals but .....

Post by **Steve P** » 25 Apr 2008, 08:28

I've still got an oil leak from the front offside one. When I took the whole thing apart I noticed that this one was covered in mastic on each end where the seals are. The new seals came from a VW specialist and were black. Should I try another brand, or as there was mastic used before have I got real problems?

Any suggestions as to my next course of action. I didn't replace the tubes because they all look in really good condition.

I've followed Meggles' notes on this to the T.

Bev is saying "sell the bl**dy thing"

Steve

Post by **ermie571** » 25 Apr 2008, 08:49

Bev...you can't be serious!!!!!

keep the faith - you will get there!! You have done far too much to it to give in now!

Em
x

Post by **camper** » 25 Apr 2008, 08:54

There should have been no mastic its just a bodge up.Clean off any mastic on the tubes and where it engages the cylinder head&block.Smear a little grease on the tube ends fit the O rings.Replace the tubes push&turn a little to get a good seating into the block.

Post by **Laurie** » 25 Apr 2008, 09:48

If you look at the original seals, you will see that the seals at the top are red(ish) That is because they are made of different material to the bottom seals. It doesn't get brittle when hot!
Most importers selling seals are just using rubber O rings.

If I were you, I'd try to find a genuine seal for the top.

However, it is possible to nip the seal on the way in, especially with AMC aftermarket heads so I use a 17mm socket on a short extension and gently turn and push to get the seal in nicely.

I never use silicone, but do often use a little kuril K2 to lube it in.

This is assuming that you're talking about a type 4 motor?????

Post by **VWCamperfan** » 25 Apr 2008, 13:21

If using original tubes, give then a little pull to expand them at the 'springy' section, they could have become a little squashed during th time they have been there espicially if some mastic was squashing them further!

Post by **Steve P** » 25 Apr 2008, 16:45

I guess they are the original tubes .... have ordered another set of seals this time from GFS, I think these new ones are going to be OEM ones. Talk about spending out twice. Have also ordered a new tube to replace that leaky one.

I'm tearing my hair out and Bev is giving me grief. Perhaps I should put the old thermostat back in that had been disconnected and leave be because she didn't leak so badly before.

If this new tube and the different seals don't work then what else should I do? Think about saving for a new engine? The burning oil is quite bad.

Steve

Post by **Rozzo** » 25 Apr 2008, 17:36

before you do owt rash,, try twisting the tube a bit,,, may just settle the seal in

Post by **Steve P** » 25 Apr 2008, 17:49

ermie571 wrote:Bev...you can't be serious!!!!!

keep the faith - you will get there!! You have done far too much to it to give in now!

Em
x

She is deadly serious Emma, perhaps you can talk her around.

Rozzo - I was born in Donny, but moved South and become a suvvern softie shandy drinker about 11 years ago. Family still live there though.

Post by **Laurie** » 25 Apr 2008, 18:29

These are the times that I have had with cars through the years. I get fed up, sell them and someone buys them and uses them for years without a problem.

I think you may have nicked a seal on the way in.

Fix it, then sell it and buy my nice Dehler

Not really. Twist and push is all I can say.

Post by **Rozzo** » 25 Apr 2008, 18:58

Laurie wrote:buy my nice Dehler

avin a laff or what

Post by **funbus1** » 26 Apr 2008, 17:30

Hi folks have been following this thread and similar ones, does this easy procces of refitting the old tubes by turning and stretching , apply to the wesserboxer? Rick.

Post by **meggles** » 26 Apr 2008, 19:49

camper wrote:There should have been no mastic its just a bodge up.Clean off any mastic on the tubes and where it engages the cylinder head&block.Smear a little grease on the tube ends fit the O rings.Replace the tubes push&turn a little to get a good seating into the block.

Suppose I agree, technically using silicone etc is a bodge of sorts. But the object of the exercise is to stop an oil leak and so, if the engine no longer leaks oil then it is a succesful job!
Steve & Bev, sorry it didn't work for you. It worked for me. Although, today I was given an advisory on MOT, OIL LEAK. One push rod tube leaking! I am intending to get genuine seals next time but I expect to have to use silicone again. I've yet to see a T25 that is bone dry!
Don't give up.

Post by **Grun** » 27 Apr 2008, 10:04

funbus1 wrote:Hi folks have been following this thread and similar ones, does this easy procces of refitting the old tubes by turning and stretching , apply to the wesserboxer? Rick.

It is a heads off job with the wasserboxers I believe.

Turning and gentle stretching, sounds ok.
Mike

Post by **Grun** » 27 Apr 2008, 10:20

meggles / steve and bev,

How about cleaning up the leaking tube when you have it out, then sealing one end with a bung or something and applying a bit of air pressure to t'other end while immersed in water.
Any little crack or hole should show up with bubbles. If you then reverse the tube and bung you can check the whole length.

Did this one day in a jungle clearing with a suspect stainless steel high pressure fuel line from one of the engines on the Puma helicopter I was flying with that day. Just a thumb over one end and blowing down the other while the tube was in a glass of water, showed up a crack that was invisible to the naked eye. Can still taste the (jet A) fuel now.

Post by **funbus1** » 27 Apr 2008, 10:22

Hi Grun, I think i can just remove the camshaft, pull out pushrods and replace tubes with tellescopic ones. Which are expensive. I really cant see how its possible to re use the old tubes and get a proper seal.

Club 80-90 Forums