Instrument panel - MoT failure?

[domiles1]

I put my headlights on but the instrument panel lights do not work (I think I need new instr panel and flexible circuit thingy but that's another problem!). Is it a MoT failure? It means not being able to see speedo at night.
Thanks,
Dom.

[andysimpson]

nothing to do with MOT

[jamesc76]

as above!!!!

i drove around for a few weeks with a small torch if i wanted to see wat speed was used the torch!"!!!

[edoh]

have you checked dash light bulbs?

[clartsonly]

try wiggling the wires in the connector under the dash, does you fuel gauge and temp work okay?

otherwise new LEDs in the cluster

[syncrosimon]

For reliable dash operation it is really well worth disconnecting the main wiring loom connector by it's white plastic oblong connector. on my lhd dub you can reach up to it from under the dash, by your right knee, pull it down on its wires enough that you can look at it, then very gently tease open the little grey metal sprung prongs that carry the voltage across to the plastic circuit board. I did this with a watch makers tiny screw driver. The aim is to make a more secure connection so that those prongs grip the board more tightly. on my van this sorted out an intermittent buzzer of doom, and other intermittent dash functions, best 5 minutes i spent fiddling with the van.

[Mocki]

dont go to the mot station in the dark they will never know anyway....

is the light still on in your heater panel?
could be the dimmer on the switch has gone fubar, its a common thing, give the dimmer a good spraying with contact cleaner, and a good lefting and righting and it may come back......the lights in the heater control are controlled off the same dimmer(and maybe the cig lighter surround if you have one) so if they are on its the dash panel , not the switch

[domiles1]

Thanks for all your replies everyone.
The whole instrument panel is basically knackered. The little flange that holds the printed circuit has snapped off so I've just pushed the printed cuircuit flimsily into the white 14-pin connector! And the warning lights work ok! The illumination bulbs are themselves ok but just don't work on the panel, don't know what the problem is, so whether its the printed circuit that's not working.......it looks like its seen better days!
I've got the indicator, high beam, oil light, fuel gauge and temp gauge working, if somewhat hanging by a thread, but hopefully enough for a MoT.

I just need a MoT so I can drive it the 22 miles to move house - otherwise its an expensive trailering job!

Just as an aside - what happens when we can get no more instrument panels/printed circuits? I've tried many scrappers with no success. Someone needs to start re-manufacturing!

Cheers,
Dom.

[Grun]

domiles1 wrote

Just as an aside - what happens when we can get no more instrument panels/printed circuits? I've tried many scrappers with no success. Someone needs to start re-manufacturing!

Could be my old memory playing up, but I think someone bought one new recently. (for about £70 was it?)
Yours sounds in a pretty bad way, but repairs to ones with only the odd break where they plug into the white socket have been made, with a bit of wire soldered across to replace the missing bit of copper foil.

I am sure it would be possible to wire the whole panel (only about a dozen wires) with the real thing. (ehmm wire!) The flexy PCB thingy was probably only used to make manufacture quicker and therefore cheaper.

Just another aside.

Mike

[domiles1]

Been thinking about replacing the printed circuit with wires - shouldn't be too difficult if I plan it carefully and draw it out with a set of felt-tip pens first! I assume one needs to be careful to keep the voltage regulator and various resistors incorporated in the scheme?

[Mocki]

yep, the volyage reg and the resistors are vital.......very vital......

[Ian Hulley]

Been thinking about replacing the printed circuit with wires - shouldn't be too difficult if I plan it carefully and draw it out with a set of felt-tip pens first! I assume one needs to be careful to keep the voltage regulator and various resistors incorporated in the scheme?

Be easier to buy a used pod wouldn't it ? I recently bought a petrol one with rev counter for £70 (from Billy numbers who's in Gloucestershire ) .... one without the bling shouldn't cost the earth.

Ian.