outer cv joint

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dave friday
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outer cv joint

Post by dave friday »

Morning all, how should the drive shaft be removed from the outer cv joint?
ta.
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1992 1600td [ jx ] syncro panel van[leisuredrive camper ]

Ye Olde Syncrospares
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Post by Ye Olde Syncrospares »

undo big nut on outside of outer cv joint,jack and support side of van,undo front diff to shaft bolts,take top wishbone bolts out and lift wishbone up,remove caliper and cable tie out the way,take off tie rod,remove 17mm nut from anti roll bar link from both ends and push away,totally remove big nut on outer joint and lean suspension upright outwards and wiggle shaft inwards,it will go be forcefull,when shaft is out remove boot and clean grease to find the snap ring that holds it to shaft.open snap ring and clout joint with soft faced hammer,da da its off,cj.
bought some real off roaders!!!!!!!

dave friday
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Post by dave friday »

Thanks for that, one of the top balljoint hex bolts snapped when i undid it so im a bit worried about un-doing the anti roll bar link [i'm changing the inner cv boot and the cv joint while i'm at it] so any more tips/advice wellcome.
Ta.
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1992 1600td [ jx ] syncro panel van[leisuredrive camper ]

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toomanytoys
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Post by toomanytoys »

I managed to get one sie out by just dropping caliper and the top ball joint.. it was a squeeze.. but i think the other side its not possible...

the other way is to drop the front diff unit.. then the suspension doesnt need to come apart..

6 of one, half a dozen of the other....

Its worth changine any worn parts when you do it.. seeming as a lot of things need undoing!!

dave friday
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Post by dave friday »

I managed to undo the bottom balljoint taper and so i only have to undo the axle nut and its off!!.
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1992 1600td [ jx ] syncro panel van[leisuredrive camper ]

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HarryMann
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Post by HarryMann »

I managed to undo the bottom balljoint taper and so i only have to undo the axle nut and its off!!.

OH, shouldn't be the first thing to loosen with the wheel still on, so the load doesn't goes through the shaft?

I think if you wire brush up the drop-link threads well and soak in pen. oil, and loosen and rewind the 17mm in stages it should come off.. or if it shears then a fix is not far away. Drill/tap the drop-link and use s/s studding or weld a bolt on and cut the head off... its not exactly safety critical part.
Re-assemble with copper-slip around the damping rings and plenty on the threads, or use red-rubber grease so it all comes apart next time easily.

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dave friday
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Post by dave friday »

Yes your right Harry i had to reassemble quite a lot, put the wheel back on etc ,i managed to get the shaft off [with the two cv joints] with the drop arm link in place,just removed the track rod end, Puting it back on [the shaft] i just removed the anti-roll bar support,and pushed the drop arm forward, a lot of work just to replace a cv joint!!.
Still i understand the van a bit more now.
I dont think, so I'm not[do I exist?]
1992 1600td [ jx ] syncro panel van[leisuredrive camper ]

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HarryMann
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Post by HarryMann »

Putting it back on [the shaft] i just removed the anti-roll bar support,and pushed the drop arm forward,

Ah, crafty thing you! I did that move once (after first breaking a drop link on the other side) :)

Also have broken one of those hex heads on the top arm fixing , like you... :cry:

Still i understand the van a bit more now.

Nicely put! They aren't Minis, Ford or Fiats are they ?

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dave friday
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Post by dave friday »

The driver's side of the van is a lot more rusty,i tried to undo the bolt on the shock absorber [same side] and a large lump of socket shot off into the distance!! so when/or if i have to replace the shocks i'll have to use plenty of penitrating oil.
I dont think, so I'm not[do I exist?]
1992 1600td [ jx ] syncro panel van[leisuredrive camper ]

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