Baptism of Fire (Water Actually)
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Baptism of Fire (Water Actually)
I recently purchased a 1990 Carravelle from a friend. It had a new engine DG about 4,000 miles ago and has recently started throwing water all over the road after a few miles. although this is not every time we take it, just ninety percent of the time. usually the water dumps from the expansion tank. although yesterday it came running of the sump. I have Replaced the Radiator, Checked the thermostat checked the cooling fan, i am now at a loss as to what to do next. i have checked the oil and this is good with no signs of water mix. i have also been bleeding the system as per instructions on tech help page.
has anyone got any ideas.
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has anyone got any ideas.
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Of all the things i've lost, i miss my mind the most.
Re:Baptism of Fire (Water Actually)
Hi Delmumbles,
Welcome to the club, I wonder if you could just be getting an air lock in the system. The 'Mocki' method of bleeding would be first on my list.
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... ing_system
Some peeps say it is not necessary to raise the front of the vehicle, but I would do it if I had your symptoms. The farmer next door to me has a driveway I can borrow that is about 1 in 3 ( thats about 33% in new money I guess !) so ideal for the job.
There will probably be all sorts of ideas along in a minute or three, seems to be recurring theme.
Cheers
Mike
Welcome to the club, I wonder if you could just be getting an air lock in the system. The 'Mocki' method of bleeding would be first on my list.
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... ing_system
Some peeps say it is not necessary to raise the front of the vehicle, but I would do it if I had your symptoms. The farmer next door to me has a driveway I can borrow that is about 1 in 3 ( thats about 33% in new money I guess !) so ideal for the job.
There will probably be all sorts of ideas along in a minute or three, seems to be recurring theme.
Cheers
Mike
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
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- edoh
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u might want to check the search facility at the top of the page - 'coolant leaks' - theres a lot of ideas n experiences to draw from -
eg
http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic ... lant+leaks

eg
http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic ... lant+leaks

Owner of a red T25 fixed hi top campervan - colour - spikey red - petrol - water cooled - 1.9 dg engine rhd - 1990 g reg n still going strong!-
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Have read the thread, Interesting. The expansion tank was replaced days before i bought the vehicle as well as the pressure cap. the old expansion tank had sprung a leak. these items were purchased from JK and others have found them to be a little suspect. i never would have considered these as they are new parts. i will examine them more closely.
Of all the things i've lost, i miss my mind the most.
- edoh
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sounds like it might really be worth rechecking -
like you - i assumed - new part = problem solved -
but checking peoples experiences on the site - new relays/water pumps/starters/ etc etc - which havent functioned as they should -
is it worth trying the putting out the paper at the bottom of the van and leaving overnight - to see where the leak might be dribbling from when van not running?
keep us posted on your progress -
like you - i assumed - new part = problem solved -
but checking peoples experiences on the site - new relays/water pumps/starters/ etc etc - which havent functioned as they should -
is it worth trying the putting out the paper at the bottom of the van and leaving overnight - to see where the leak might be dribbling from when van not running?
keep us posted on your progress -
Owner of a red T25 fixed hi top campervan - colour - spikey red - petrol - water cooled - 1.9 dg engine rhd - 1990 g reg n still going strong!-
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The bleed valve just bypasses the closed thermostat, allowing air and water to move between the flow and return pipes to the radiator. Water will not come out, just loosen it off.
If your motor has had an overheat, then the chances are the head rings have blown. That means you're pushing compression gas into the water system. You MUST run a thermostat. Many aftermarket ones are the wrong temp so watch it!
There is a company on ebay, if you searck Head Tools, that do a diagnosis kit for around 25 quid. It uses a liquid that changes colour if there is compression going into your water system. Well worth buying because it eliminates any doubts.
Bleeding will work at 1500 rpm on the flat. It has done me since 1983, anyway.
If your motor has had an overheat, then the chances are the head rings have blown. That means you're pushing compression gas into the water system. You MUST run a thermostat. Many aftermarket ones are the wrong temp so watch it!
There is a company on ebay, if you searck Head Tools, that do a diagnosis kit for around 25 quid. It uses a liquid that changes colour if there is compression going into your water system. Well worth buying because it eliminates any doubts.
Bleeding will work at 1500 rpm on the flat. It has done me since 1983, anyway.
Laurie Pettitt-Engines.
07824514205
07824514205
Re: Baptism of Fire (Water Actually)
Delmumbles,
IIRC the bleed valve on the top of the thermostat housing just allows any air to escape through a smallish diameter hose to the 'Distribution pipe'
which wends its way around the engine bay opening just below the removable cover.
Can't remember where the distribution pipe finally connects back to the main system, but it just seems to be a route for the air to find its way up from the engine etc. and out through the open expansion tank, during the bleeding process.
Haynes item 16 of 18 (bleeding) 'stop the engine and then close the bleed valve in the engine compartment.'
Can't take a look at mine it is loaded with gear and in my garage resting!!
Laurie beat me to it, I have always bled on the flat too. Good info from Laurie.
Mike
IIRC the bleed valve on the top of the thermostat housing just allows any air to escape through a smallish diameter hose to the 'Distribution pipe'
which wends its way around the engine bay opening just below the removable cover.
Can't remember where the distribution pipe finally connects back to the main system, but it just seems to be a route for the air to find its way up from the engine etc. and out through the open expansion tank, during the bleeding process.
Haynes item 16 of 18 (bleeding) 'stop the engine and then close the bleed valve in the engine compartment.'
Can't take a look at mine it is loaded with gear and in my garage resting!!
Laurie beat me to it, I have always bled on the flat too. Good info from Laurie.
Mike
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
Haynes, schmaynes!
Pressure cap off.... Run engine at 1500 RPM. Loosen bleed screw on t stat. Loosen radiator bleed (13mm) run until a bubble free stream of water comes from the rad bleed. Close the rad bleed, close the thermo bleed, replace pressure cap and drop revs. Job done.
Possible faults are Head studs not renewed and not up[ to the 50NM torque needed to tighten them. Crack between valve seats has run into water gallery. That would usually cause steamy exhaust. Overheat has allowed studs to stretch and blown head rings. Running without thermostat means water doesn't know which way to go and it just stays in the engine and boils.
Head rings will mean that within seconds of starting, the hoses will be rock solid.
Pressure cap off.... Run engine at 1500 RPM. Loosen bleed screw on t stat. Loosen radiator bleed (13mm) run until a bubble free stream of water comes from the rad bleed. Close the rad bleed, close the thermo bleed, replace pressure cap and drop revs. Job done.
Possible faults are Head studs not renewed and not up[ to the 50NM torque needed to tighten them. Crack between valve seats has run into water gallery. That would usually cause steamy exhaust. Overheat has allowed studs to stretch and blown head rings. Running without thermostat means water doesn't know which way to go and it just stays in the engine and boils.
Head rings will mean that within seconds of starting, the hoses will be rock solid.
Laurie Pettitt-Engines.
07824514205
07824514205