VC replacement with photos
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VC replacement with photos
Did this on Sunday, thought it might be helpfull to put it here, so any one with more knowledge/experience can E D I T it or add to it then maybe put it in WIKI.
I'm open to criticism so feel free to rip in to me if I've done it all wrong or a*** about face, at the end of the day it seems to have worked so I'm happy.
It can be done with leaving front diff in and, drive shafts connected but probably easier to take the lot out if you have a mate to help you.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/8356/dscf2149ik2.jpg[/img]
here she is up in he air , first thing to do is drop the oil. You can see the drain plug in the centre of the photo
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/554/dscf2152nb9.jpg[/img]
Here is what it looked like, not sure if this is a normal amount of metal particles??? but its not noisy.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/3125/dscf2153qq6.jpg[/img]
This is what came out smelt a bit odd (not just cat wee gear oil smell) so I put that down to it being contaminated wsith silicone fluid from the buggered VC.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/1609/dscf2154bn0.jpg[/img]
prop marked so it goes back in to the same position, don't really think its nessesary to put all the bolts back in the same place, but read some were you should, so i did.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/629/dscf2155zy7.jpg[/img]
tie prop up out of the way, not to the gaurd rail like I did as you might have to move it to get the VC housing out of the way later.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/3056/dscf2157rm2.jpg[/img]
remove these two bolts.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/1197/dscf2158qp3.jpg[/img]
then remove this one at the front, you might have to remove the ones either side of this one that bolt the front support to the subframe, if you do they are in elongated holes to line every thing up so mark them with white spray paint before removal so you can put them back in the same location.(sorry no photos)
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4650/dscf2160ei2.jpg[/img]
then you should be able to pull the front diff down at the back, this will let you remove the cradle it was hanging on, there are two bolts on either side of the cradle, they are in elongated holes at the top so need marking before removal so you can put them back in the same place, bit of white spray paint will help (sorry no photo)
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2370/dscf2163hr4.jpg[/img]
then undo all the 13mm bolts around the VC housing, and the 14mm airvent at the top, tap with a soft face hammer and ease appart, first 5mm or so are a bit tight as it will be on the locating dowls, keep the VC on the input shaft (diff side) and with a bit of wiggling and joggling you should be able to move the VC cover clear over to the side out the way, then remove the VC and joggle that out.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4011/dscf2165od8.jpg[/img]
here it is from the other side bit awkward to move it out the way but with the aid of a transmsion jack and perseverance it can be done, it might help to remove the rubber mount you can see but mine didn't want to play, I also dropped the lhs prop guard rail, to make it easier to get back on
clean the two mating surfaces apply some sealent, ensure spacer ring is correctly located in the VC housing, locate new/rebuilt VC on shaft lubed with a bit of gear oil and reassemble.
I'm open to criticism so feel free to rip in to me if I've done it all wrong or a*** about face, at the end of the day it seems to have worked so I'm happy.
It can be done with leaving front diff in and, drive shafts connected but probably easier to take the lot out if you have a mate to help you.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/8356/dscf2149ik2.jpg[/img]
here she is up in he air , first thing to do is drop the oil. You can see the drain plug in the centre of the photo
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/554/dscf2152nb9.jpg[/img]
Here is what it looked like, not sure if this is a normal amount of metal particles??? but its not noisy.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/3125/dscf2153qq6.jpg[/img]
This is what came out smelt a bit odd (not just cat wee gear oil smell) so I put that down to it being contaminated wsith silicone fluid from the buggered VC.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/1609/dscf2154bn0.jpg[/img]
prop marked so it goes back in to the same position, don't really think its nessesary to put all the bolts back in the same place, but read some were you should, so i did.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/629/dscf2155zy7.jpg[/img]
tie prop up out of the way, not to the gaurd rail like I did as you might have to move it to get the VC housing out of the way later.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/3056/dscf2157rm2.jpg[/img]
remove these two bolts.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/1197/dscf2158qp3.jpg[/img]
then remove this one at the front, you might have to remove the ones either side of this one that bolt the front support to the subframe, if you do they are in elongated holes to line every thing up so mark them with white spray paint before removal so you can put them back in the same location.(sorry no photos)
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4650/dscf2160ei2.jpg[/img]
then you should be able to pull the front diff down at the back, this will let you remove the cradle it was hanging on, there are two bolts on either side of the cradle, they are in elongated holes at the top so need marking before removal so you can put them back in the same place, bit of white spray paint will help (sorry no photo)
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2370/dscf2163hr4.jpg[/img]
then undo all the 13mm bolts around the VC housing, and the 14mm airvent at the top, tap with a soft face hammer and ease appart, first 5mm or so are a bit tight as it will be on the locating dowls, keep the VC on the input shaft (diff side) and with a bit of wiggling and joggling you should be able to move the VC cover clear over to the side out the way, then remove the VC and joggle that out.
[IMG:640:480]http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4011/dscf2165od8.jpg[/img]
here it is from the other side bit awkward to move it out the way but with the aid of a transmsion jack and perseverance it can be done, it might help to remove the rubber mount you can see but mine didn't want to play, I also dropped the lhs prop guard rail, to make it easier to get back on
clean the two mating surfaces apply some sealent, ensure spacer ring is correctly located in the VC housing, locate new/rebuilt VC on shaft lubed with a bit of gear oil and reassemble.
Syncro 16" doka 2.1i
-
- Trader
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- 80-90 Mem No: 1315
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- Trader
- Posts: 836
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 06:36
- 80-90 Mem No: 1315
- Location: deepest devon
- Boltze
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- 80-90 Mem No: 2510
- Location: Fuerth - Germany - Syncronaut 64
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Nice pictures and description. Thanks 

Christoph
Caravelle GL syncro 1985
http://www.syncro-t3.de - http://www.vwpix.org - http://www.ig-syncro16.de
Caravelle GL syncro 1985
http://www.syncro-t3.de - http://www.vwpix.org - http://www.ig-syncro16.de
- Hacksawbob
- Registered user
- Posts: 4444
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 07:11
- 80-90 Mem No: 1168
- Location: Lancs UK member 1168
Hacksawbob wrote:Thanks for the piccys, I may get them wiki'd at some stage, VW do the bolts for about £2.50 each from memory times 8clean looking van!
thanks, its low mileage which is the main reason I bought it, so I wouldn't have any problems!! both head gaskets and a change of VC later I'm thinking low mileage isn't all its cracked up to be!
Syncro 16" doka 2.1i
HarryMann wrote:Images look very good thanks... ideal size. Will prob. transfer them to Wiki database so they're always there and links never get broken, thanks v.much for writing up.
Just done that now Mr Manxman , thanks again...
https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Sy ... d_refiting
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Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1