eberspacher sensors?

[lhd]

Took mm D2l out today to replace all the thermo switches and a new glowplug ready for Dubfreeze.....

Here the problem lies....The replacement switches I have got look nothing like the ones currently installed.

The highest one 250-200 cant possibly fit as the conectors go straight up and fowl the casing... can these be bent.......
or are they the wrong ones...?
the values look fine but they just dont look right, I can't even find the third one.
found the overheat and combustion chamber one.
any ideas?

[Mocki]

i would say, and im not familiar with the ebber you have, if the values are correct, then do what you have to to make them fit, as long as you are not "shorting" the wires out, they wont "chafe" and it look safe, go for it

have you read the info in the wiki from David, that i added for him a few weeks ago, i beleive they were the same heater as yours.

if the sensors are the equiv ones they will work, if you can make them fit

[ringo]

I'd have a look at page 11 of the manual and check which ones which - thats how Irish David found out.

Other than that, has anyone else tried ?

Ringo

[lhd]

Ok I checked the wiring diagram and the D2l only has two of the sensors........no coil heating sensor.
A they don't fit right I think I'll leave em just in case.
I just changed the Glowplug in the end.

Is there a way to test the temperature sensor?

[ringo]

Think Irish Dave said he was going to do a write up about it when he gets back from off shore work - it might be worth waiting for that....

Ringo

[lhd]

yes think thats the best bet.
wish it was as easy as yours to remove and fit though.

[jed the spread]

FFS rob. have you ever bought a replacement for anything and it has fitted. best put them in corner of your lounge with the rest of your van stuff

jed

[lhd]

yes the glowplug.......
wheres there an emoticon when you need one.....
Like poking its tounge out and blowing a rasberry......

[jed the spread]

[img:23:25]http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/smileys/smiley37.gif[/img]

jed

[lhd]

class......

[Mocki]

[img:46:26]http://www.club80-90.co.uk/smilies/rasp.gif[/img]

[lhd]

that's the one........

[ringo]

yes think thats the best bet.
wish it was as easy as yours to remove and fit though.

[img:46:26]http://www.club80-90.co.uk/smilies/rasp.gif[/img]

To be fair - it must be easier than yours - but mines still a pain!

Ringo

[irish.david]

Hi,

I seem to remember that at least one of temperature sensors i got from Farnell came with the lugs (connections) pointing upwards instead of to the side. All you need to do is bend them so they come out sideways instead of upwards. The temperature sensors aren't exact eber spares; they're just the only things i could find with the same specs as the eber stuff without having to pay a ridiculous amount for eber branded bit (if you could even find them).

The reason why you have one extra is that my write-up and spare parts list was for the B2L (petrol model). The D2L doesn't have the heating coil sensor cutoff switch that the B2L does. This is cause the B2L has a spark plug and a glow plug in which are controlled separately where the D2L only has a glow plug which is controlled by the temperature switch.

Personally i'd replace the temperature switch (the one on the combustion chamber) and the overheat switch (halfway round the baffle) as these are the ones subjected to the highest temperature and are more likely to break.

Dave

[lhd]

Hi there Dave thanks for the response.
I did not change it as I am not that convinced anything is wrong with it.

If I leave on the battery indicator on the kitchen cabinet whilst starting the Eber the indicator is green before start up then goes down to red when the eber first starts up. After after a minute or two the battery indicator goes back to green, leaving me thinking that the sensor is ok.
what do you think?

The only thing that worries me is that every time the thermostat kicks back in the battery indicator goes back to red and continues this cycle.
I had a 65ah starter new and it would only run the Eber for about eight hours before the battery did not have enough voltage to restart.
I do have a 350w rms sub amp wired to the same battery but very rarely have it on when parked.

The thing I did not like about the replacement sensor is that the original one sat on a ring spacer (not sure if the same on the B2L). And the closest part of the sensor sat in that ring unlike the replacements,and was not sure if the difference in the distance of the sensor base would be a problem.
Was yours held in place with a spring and ceramic spacer?
Does that make sence.
Its still out by the way so I can replace easily.