clutch master cylinder
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clutch master cylinder
Well mines just gone...just before i wanted to goto my first meetup this weekend!
Has anyone got a exploded fitting, refitting they could scan and send me please, and has anyone got experience of changing one of these, niggles, awkward things etc etc
Im in Sheffield if anyone local can help, use of a manual, or hands on help would be fantastic. Im getting the cylinder on Thur when i get some cash and would love to get it done for Sat morning so i can make it to the weekend
cheers
Jules
Has anyone got a exploded fitting, refitting they could scan and send me please, and has anyone got experience of changing one of these, niggles, awkward things etc etc
Im in Sheffield if anyone local can help, use of a manual, or hands on help would be fantastic. Im getting the cylinder on Thur when i get some cash and would love to get it done for Sat morning so i can make it to the weekend
cheers
Jules
O my god...i lost a o.....im not cool anymore KlEINER FEIGLING..
- T'Onion
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You should be ok for saturday Jules , just leave it alone dont go poking it with a stick , mine weeped all the way back from south of france last year and t'hulley and I fitted one at RTTH's ,
fitting the new one isnt that much of a ball ache , if you get stuck give me a ring , or pop it around to Matts
fitting the new one isnt that much of a ball ache , if you get stuck give me a ring , or pop it around to Matts
victus in mutuo vicis
Ego mori tu mori
Ego mori tu mori
- Ian Hulley
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T'Onion wrote:You should be ok for saturday Jules , just leave it alone dont go poking it with a stick , mine weeped all the way back from south of france last year and t'hulley and I fitted one at RTTH's ,
fitting the new one isnt that much of a ball ache , if you get stuck give me a ring , or pop it around to Matts
I popped it down to Matts earlier, GSF have the part, so was gonna pick it up Thur when i get paid, Matt is very busy he said, but could do it next week at a push, as he said he doesnt want me to be without my wheels
He said it was awkward to get too etc, and having never done one on a camper i didnt want to make a balls of it...
I still want to go Sat, look at vans and meet the peeps, but dont want to get stuck...is anyone else going from Sheffield? be cool to go in convoy...plus with not having a UK speedo, each time i see a speed camera, i come to a crawl






O my god...i lost a o.....im not cool anymore KlEINER FEIGLING..
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Ah also, i removed the front washer bottle and motor unit, as its either not working, or no power getting to it...is the unit standard on any other cars? GSF couldnt help. Matt did warn me, if it was full of water it was quite heavy....well it was full of water, and while laid on my back on the pavement, i was soaked with soapy water...and least now i smell sweet, and luckily, i didnt get my hair wet...i hate it, after spending a hour doing my hair each day, someone or something makes a mess of it!
(its such a cool and funky syle)

O my god...i lost a o.....im not cool anymore KlEINER FEIGLING..
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i changed mine last month - along w the slave cylinder -(at the back of the engine) - do the 2 go together? - pretty straightforward -
the reservoir behind the dash -
holds both the clutch n brake fluid -
the brake master cylinder sits under this reservoir -
vehicle on level ground - engine switched off -
(for me - a grey) hose comes down from the side of the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder which is located behind the clutch n brake pedal -
i took off 2 screws and the lower part of the plastic shroud of the steering column - for easier access - small space to work in - but doable -
4 useful tips - uno - dont spare the wd40 - soak the nuts you have to remove some time beforehand - as many times as you can - dos - good to have 13mm spanners that can get into tight spaces - trez (?) - lots of jcloths to soak up the clutch n brake fluid that will inevitably leak as you change cylinders - quatros - whilst performing this piece of work - try and ensure that the reservoir is kept topped up throughout with dot 4 brake n clutch fluid - as you will inevitably lose some of this fluid - will avoid having to bleed brakes as well as clutch - if you manage to keep reservoir reasonably replenished (3 r's) -
pull of hose (as above) from master cylinder end - and plug immediately with an old bolt or rod that will stop the leaking - unscrew the pipe union at the bottom of the cylinder - mine was 17mm - (again - expect some leakage) - and undo the 2 13mm nuts that hold the master cylinder in place - TIP - the new master cylinder comes with small plastic plugs that you have to remove before connecting up with nuts n hoses - these plastic plugs - obviously make ruddy good plugs to stop fluid leaving as you change cylinders -
carefully withdraw the master cylinder - and reconnect the hoses and nuts to the new one - NOTE - on top of the master cylinder is a rubber boot n push rod - the new master cylinder should just push into this rubber boot n push rod mechanism -
av a clear up - make sure everything tightened up nicely -
n onto the bleeding -
phew -
air may have entered the system whilst you have been carrying out this work - will be noticed by clutch/brakes feeling inoperable/stiff/ etc -
at the bottom of the master cylinder you just changed - runs a hose all the way under the van - to the slave cylinder at the back of the engine - on top of the slave cylinder sits the bleed screw for the clutch system - this is a 7mm little screw on top of the slave cylinder - (sometimes - under it's own little dustt cap! - bless!) - if rusted or terry tucked - can be repaced with new ones from JK - GSF - etc for aabout a squid -
again - liberal dose of wd40 for this little screw - if seized - try turning gently in both directions to get some purchase (i love that word) on the screw - just need to release and open the screw a turn or two -
NOTE - keep reservoir topped up THROUGHOUT this bleeding - a pressure bleeding kit to keep reservoir topped up automatically/ and/or a matey is particularly useful for this part of the job - with bleed screw closed and dust cap off - attach a tube to the top of the screw - with the other end of the tube sitting in a clean jar -
unscrew bleed screw one turn - matey steps on pedal - fluid n air flow into the jar - matey keeps holding pedal down - n ensures reservoir stays topped up - you - close bleed screw - matey releases pedal - REPEAT several times - until - the fluid emerging from the screw HAS NO AIR BUBBLES IN IT - may have to do this procedure several times to make sure -
when pedal feels fine - no more air coming through - remove tube - tighten bleed screw GENTLY! - replace dust cap - an av a tidy up -
clutch properly bled? bleed screw nice n tight? master cylinder nice n tight? hoses secure? reservoir topped up to max? check underneath van -any leaks? pedal pressure feels ok? - (if not - BLEED AGAIN - may take several goes) -
if yes to the above - try a safe slow drive on known road - and go through a few gear n clutch changes -
should be smooth -
if any probs - check all connections for security - n BLEED again - took me 3 goes to get just so -
would recommend one of those pressure bleeding kits - good 13mm, 17mm and 7mm spanners - good clutch n brake fluid - lots of cloths for cleaning up - phone number for your local PIRTEK shop (ruddy useful for any hoses should you require replacing any) - new clutch master cylinder - probably - new bleed screw - and some time n patience -
WIKI HERE I COME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the reservoir behind the dash -
holds both the clutch n brake fluid -
the brake master cylinder sits under this reservoir -
vehicle on level ground - engine switched off -
(for me - a grey) hose comes down from the side of the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder which is located behind the clutch n brake pedal -
i took off 2 screws and the lower part of the plastic shroud of the steering column - for easier access - small space to work in - but doable -
4 useful tips - uno - dont spare the wd40 - soak the nuts you have to remove some time beforehand - as many times as you can - dos - good to have 13mm spanners that can get into tight spaces - trez (?) - lots of jcloths to soak up the clutch n brake fluid that will inevitably leak as you change cylinders - quatros - whilst performing this piece of work - try and ensure that the reservoir is kept topped up throughout with dot 4 brake n clutch fluid - as you will inevitably lose some of this fluid - will avoid having to bleed brakes as well as clutch - if you manage to keep reservoir reasonably replenished (3 r's) -
pull of hose (as above) from master cylinder end - and plug immediately with an old bolt or rod that will stop the leaking - unscrew the pipe union at the bottom of the cylinder - mine was 17mm - (again - expect some leakage) - and undo the 2 13mm nuts that hold the master cylinder in place - TIP - the new master cylinder comes with small plastic plugs that you have to remove before connecting up with nuts n hoses - these plastic plugs - obviously make ruddy good plugs to stop fluid leaving as you change cylinders -
carefully withdraw the master cylinder - and reconnect the hoses and nuts to the new one - NOTE - on top of the master cylinder is a rubber boot n push rod - the new master cylinder should just push into this rubber boot n push rod mechanism -
av a clear up - make sure everything tightened up nicely -
n onto the bleeding -
phew -
air may have entered the system whilst you have been carrying out this work - will be noticed by clutch/brakes feeling inoperable/stiff/ etc -
at the bottom of the master cylinder you just changed - runs a hose all the way under the van - to the slave cylinder at the back of the engine - on top of the slave cylinder sits the bleed screw for the clutch system - this is a 7mm little screw on top of the slave cylinder - (sometimes - under it's own little dustt cap! - bless!) - if rusted or terry tucked - can be repaced with new ones from JK - GSF - etc for aabout a squid -
again - liberal dose of wd40 for this little screw - if seized - try turning gently in both directions to get some purchase (i love that word) on the screw - just need to release and open the screw a turn or two -
NOTE - keep reservoir topped up THROUGHOUT this bleeding - a pressure bleeding kit to keep reservoir topped up automatically/ and/or a matey is particularly useful for this part of the job - with bleed screw closed and dust cap off - attach a tube to the top of the screw - with the other end of the tube sitting in a clean jar -
unscrew bleed screw one turn - matey steps on pedal - fluid n air flow into the jar - matey keeps holding pedal down - n ensures reservoir stays topped up - you - close bleed screw - matey releases pedal - REPEAT several times - until - the fluid emerging from the screw HAS NO AIR BUBBLES IN IT - may have to do this procedure several times to make sure -
when pedal feels fine - no more air coming through - remove tube - tighten bleed screw GENTLY! - replace dust cap - an av a tidy up -
clutch properly bled? bleed screw nice n tight? master cylinder nice n tight? hoses secure? reservoir topped up to max? check underneath van -any leaks? pedal pressure feels ok? - (if not - BLEED AGAIN - may take several goes) -
if yes to the above - try a safe slow drive on known road - and go through a few gear n clutch changes -
should be smooth -
if any probs - check all connections for security - n BLEED again - took me 3 goes to get just so -
would recommend one of those pressure bleeding kits - good 13mm, 17mm and 7mm spanners - good clutch n brake fluid - lots of cloths for cleaning up - phone number for your local PIRTEK shop (ruddy useful for any hoses should you require replacing any) - new clutch master cylinder - probably - new bleed screw - and some time n patience -

WIKI HERE I COME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Owner of a red T25 fixed hi top campervan - colour - spikey red - petrol - water cooled - 1.9 dg engine rhd - 1990 g reg n still going strong!-
- Ian Hulley
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LOTS of cloths, 13mm spanner, more cloths,7mm spanner, 1 or 2 litres of Dot 4 Brake/Clutch Fluid, cloths, length of narrow rubber hose and jar of fluid or one-way bleeding kit, cloths, capable assistant with IQ over single figures.
Remove instrument pod cover
Remove top of fluid reservoir
Remove steering wheel lower shroud (can't remember doing this bit at RTTH Mark ?)
Carefully pull off flexible hose from reservoir (being prepared for deluge of fluid)
Undo and remove 2 M8 (13mm head) retaining bolts.
Carefully remove cylinder from plunger.
Refit replacement cylinder up onto plunger
loosely fasten retaining bolts
push on flexible hose
Check plunger is IN the piston of the cylinder
tighten retaining bolts (not TOO tight muppet
)
Top up fluid
gently repeatedly press pedal watching bubbles rise into reservoir
Using said assistant bleed clutch slave cylinder (7mm spanner) untill 'pedal' returns i.e. watch the release arm move up and down
top up fluid
Replace covers
Check for air and leaks
Top up again if neccesary
Remove ALL traces of fluid from paintwork
etc etc etc
Not particularly complicated BUT if you don't understand these instructions and/or haven't bled a brake or clutch system before, seek competant help.
Good luck.
Ian.
Remove instrument pod cover
Remove top of fluid reservoir
Remove steering wheel lower shroud (can't remember doing this bit at RTTH Mark ?)
Carefully pull off flexible hose from reservoir (being prepared for deluge of fluid)
Undo and remove 2 M8 (13mm head) retaining bolts.
Carefully remove cylinder from plunger.
Refit replacement cylinder up onto plunger
loosely fasten retaining bolts
push on flexible hose
Check plunger is IN the piston of the cylinder

tighten retaining bolts (not TOO tight muppet

Top up fluid
gently repeatedly press pedal watching bubbles rise into reservoir
Using said assistant bleed clutch slave cylinder (7mm spanner) untill 'pedal' returns i.e. watch the release arm move up and down
top up fluid
Replace covers
Check for air and leaks
Top up again if neccesary
Remove ALL traces of fluid from paintwork

etc etc etc
Not particularly complicated BUT if you don't understand these instructions and/or haven't bled a brake or clutch system before, seek competant help.
Good luck.
Ian.
The Hulley's Bus
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
- Syncro G
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sheffieldcoljules wrote:I still want to go Sat, look at vans and meet the peeps, but dont want to get stuck...is anyone else going from Sheffield? be cool to go in convoy...plus with not having a UK speedo, each time i see a speed camera, i come to a crawl![]()
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I'm heading out there from sheffield for Saturday, hopefully I'll get there. Got a UK speedo but I think its slightly optomistic; don't worry about speed cameras though because as it's diesel - when theres a hill, I come to a crawl


Convoy is fine but if your brakes are "feck" I'll want to be folowing.

Electrical stuff I'm not bad at, brake bleeding I understand the theory and methods of but I never seem to manage geting rid of all the air - still if your desperate I could try and be useful.
Glen Syncronaut: 113 - 1992 JX Syncro pannel van
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Syncro G wrote:sheffieldcoljules wrote:I still want to go Sat, look at vans and meet the peeps, but dont want to get stuck...is anyone else going from Sheffield? be cool to go in convoy...plus with not having a UK speedo, each time i see a speed camera, i come to a crawl![]()
![]()
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I'm heading out there from sheffield for Saturday, hopefully I'll get there. Got a UK speedo but I think its slightly optomistic; don't worry about speed cameras though because as it's diesel - when theres a hill, I come to a crawl![]()
Convoy is fine but if your brakes are "feck" I'll want to be folowing.
Electrical stuff I'm not bad at, brake bleeding I understand the theory and methods of but I never seem to manage geting rid of all the air - still if your desperate I could try and be useful.
cool. im just up on the flower, above Firth Park.
Im also so bad at getting lost...
O my god...i lost a o.....im not cool anymore KlEINER FEIGLING..
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[quote="edoh"]i changed mine last month - along w the slave cylinder -(at the back of the engine) - do the 2 go together? - pretty straightforward -
thanks, doesnt look too hard, at least now i know where the master and slave cylinders are
Will have a crack on Thur i think...if someone local has a diagram i can look at, would make me feel more at ease. also as its the brake fluid too, i guess i have to bleed the brake, but which one will it be? i guess its the furthest....er so for a lhd it would be the back right?
thanks, doesnt look too hard, at least now i know where the master and slave cylinders are

Will have a crack on Thur i think...if someone local has a diagram i can look at, would make me feel more at ease. also as its the brake fluid too, i guess i have to bleed the brake, but which one will it be? i guess its the furthest....er so for a lhd it would be the back right?
O my god...i lost a o.....im not cool anymore KlEINER FEIGLING..
- Ian Hulley
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- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 08:08
- 80-90 Mem No: 1323
- Location: Wirksworth, Derbyshire ... or at t'mill
sheffieldcoljules wrote:edoh wrote:i changed mine last month - along w the slave cylinder -(at the back of the engine) - do the 2 go together? - pretty straightforward -
thanks, doesnt look too hard, at least now i know where the master and slave cylinders are
Will have a crack on Thur i think...if someone local has a diagram i can look at, would make me feel more at ease. also as its the brake fluid too, i guess i have to bleed the brake, but which one will it be? i guess its the furthest....er so for a lhd it would be the back right?

Ian
The Hulley's Bus
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter
LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure