okay first run of the year list to fix :(

Big lumps of metals and spanners.

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clartsonly
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okay first run of the year list to fix :(

Post by clartsonly »

1) Water Leak Airlock / Cap
Still struggling with bleeding this system it always seems fine for an age on the drive, but once at the end of an hour and a half journey if the engine is ticking over stationary steam starts to appear from the exhaust. I will get another cap and perhaps try once again with the bleeding. no temperature gauge that is in numbers 9 and 10. ;)

2) Lesuire Battery charging.
I keep having to manually charge this, I need to check whether it is being offered any charge watersoever, a collegue told me a boat lesuire battery needs 24 hours of engine running time to fully charge I most likely didn't even run the engine for much more than that in the whole of last year.

3) Main battery quality / charging.
It starts when it is cold okay, maybe struggling since I mucked about with the timing, but doesn't tunr the engine at 100 mph (if you know what I mean), but after returning home yesterday it didn't start anything but fine again this morning. I remember reading something about the engine not hot starting even with a new starter and new battery, but cannot find the post related to "bypassing something" to get around this problem. also maybe related to point 8

4) Warm up cut out / stall
This van still will not idle between choke going off and running for 15 miles it cuts out at junctions, or even if I coast with my foot on the clutch, I will check vacuum hoses, the winter/summer component (maybe it is stuck) the air filter the carb (again).... and also timing see point 11

5) Exhaust
Got a bit welded.. will not be replacing as it is an engine out, and drill out job.

6) Mixture / oil breather ????
All the spark plugs where sooty black before I changed them, not maybe this is all related to it cutting out. I still get oil in the air intake from the oil breather.. I have cleaned the oil breather several times and it made no difference whatsoever, perhaps even worse. I am assuming the problem with the spark plugs was caused by the oil being mixed with the fuel and water and maybe even related to the cutting out issues..

7) Cosmetics (internal and external)
It is not a rust bucket but does have some rust around the fuel filler and on the back wheel arches I think I need to do another couple of flowers! and also I need to get something for around the hatch. after I recarpeted the upper inside I tried sticking carpet in the hatch but it simply falls back off once someone climbs in.

8) Hot start slow starter motor.
as explained earlier if the van has been running for an hour or so, dont try and start it for at least 30 minutes, the battery will simply flatten.

9) Dashboard electrics
they hardly ever work. the fuel gauge and ignition lights will sometimes flash on for a couple of minutes then off again the temp gauge has never worked see point 10. I will maybe look to replace the dashboard, I did check the circuit and some of the bars on the circuit tape looked a bit corroded. If you fiddle under the dash with the wires whilst driving sometimes you can make the ignition lights and fuel gauge start working briefly. also affected are indicator lamps (in dash) and high beam indicator.

10) Temp gauge
I need to check the sender unit I suppose if the dashboard work does not show up anything.

11) Timing
I adjusted this when the exhaust was cracked so I assume I need to adjust it back now. either way I ended up by adjusting it by ear originally I expect I should try tippexing the mark this time.


so if anyone has any advise especially related to the main battery / hot starting. bleeding / cap replacement, the engine cut out at junctions or exchanging an entire dashboard please do.. I am tempted to just sell it in an honest fashion describing all of these items, at least that way someone will realise that buying a 26 year old van does come with some downs as well as ups.





4)
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..

clartsonly
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Post by clartsonly »

is this starter motor bush possibly related to my hot start problem?

http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic ... sc&start=0

I can understand why people can smell burning and why it might all just get so hot. normally an engine starts in about 2 seconds not a minute.

I will need to remove the starter motor and get my neighbour to take it apart etc. maybe even replace it, I assume the bell housing bush can be easily changed at the same time.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..

clartsonly
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Post by clartsonly »

hmmm does anyone know if diesel clocks will work in a petrol ?????

I can get some but they appear to look a bit different on the rear, placement of the wiring loom mainly.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..

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Nicola&Tony
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Post by Nicola&Tony »

Bliddy hell, that's a big list! Where are you gonna start?!!! For the cooling system, is the cap on the top of the header tank a genuine VW one? If not, ditch it and get a genuine one. Is the wire for your temperature guage connected to the sender (ours wasn't when we bought the van, and I didn't even know where the wire / sender were until shown by some of the good people from 80-90 :wink: ) Is the cooling fan on the back of the radiator working?

My apologies if I'm suggesting things that you already know about!

Tony :)
Looking for: window apertures for side windows, at the back of the van

T25; 1985; RHD; 1.9DG petrol / LPG; white Autosleeper high-top; Looking rusty again!

LT31; 1993; RHD; 2.4L petrol; high-top; diy camper project.

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Nicola&Tony
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Post by Nicola&Tony »

As far as leisure battery is concerned, if it hasn't been charged for a long time then won't it need resurrecting with one of those special battery chargers? Or just replace it with a new battery. I don't think you'll be able to re-charge a flat leisure battery from the alternator / split charger. Is the relay in the split charging system in working order? Again, just thinking about our experience, the relay in ours needed replacing (and it needs to be one with a fuse iirc). If I was you though, I'd forget all about the leisure battery for a while! :wink:

Tony
Looking for: window apertures for side windows, at the back of the van

T25; 1985; RHD; 1.9DG petrol / LPG; white Autosleeper high-top; Looking rusty again!

LT31; 1993; RHD; 2.4L petrol; high-top; diy camper project.

clartsonly
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Post by clartsonly »

thanks for the reply I thought the list was relatively small I missed out the gear selector bush, as the MOT man couldn't find first :)


I will get another new cap + I didn't think there was a fan on the back of the radiator I will need to check that as I reckon that might be the problem. but I think I will need another new coolant sender as the seal may have gone on that too.

I am not that worried about the lesuire battery, I charge it seperately out the van anyway, I will test the circuit by checking the volts accross the battery with engine not running and when it is running.

----

I tested the temperature regulator by joining the vaccum hoses together and then removing them from it, you are supposed to hear the flap shut when you remove the hose I did not hear anything and the engine seemed to run much better without the hose connected for example it was relaxed, I wonder whether there is a problem with that, as when I purchased the van I noticed it was not connected, it still did cut out though but not nearly as easily, and it seemed to start better too.

-----


I am sure the hot starting is related to the starter motor, maybe the bush which is quite often replaced expands when it gets hot and make the starter moe difficult to turn. I will test another battery on it, to see whether the battery struggles when the engine is hot instead.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..

clartsonly
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Post by clartsonly »

okay update and a request for some knowledge related to starters and spare wheel retainers.

so on the list for this weekend was

1) Timing
Done I think but incorrectly eg was running at about 1500 rpm and timed to about 11 o'clock. need to check on idle.

2) Cooling/Overheating
Tested radiator fan does not spin fuse intact.

In my opinion the radiator, fan and shroud need replacing, the fan doesn't work if I bypass the thermo switch and most of the fins are squished on the rusty radiator the problem I have though regarding this is.
can anyone advise me whether I can hacksaw through the retaining bars joined to the bumber and the hinges of the spare wheel holder as the hinges are rusted solid and I cannot remove the radiator or fan and shroud with the bars in the way?


I think the cap and temp level sensor need replacing again due to overheating.

Temperature gauge not working.. is this near the bleed valve? and if so it looks like I simply pull a hairpin type of clip out and should be able to remove this? I am sure it is not described in the maual this way.


2. vacuum control for winter/summer regulator.
I could not hear any noise when connecting disconnecting the hoses from the regulator but the vacuum hoses were "sucking" but have disconnected and used lubricant inside the regulator it appears to now move easily up and down with my fingers not sure what impact this actually has on running anyway as it is not freezing or baking hot out.

3. starter
Tested main battery starts a diesel ford with no worries and their battery slowly turns my car so the fault must lie with the starting motor/ wires, I have yanked out the bellhousing bush which did look okay actually (doesn't now ;))

I removed the starter apart from a cable, which I have now cut through, I am not sure what this is and found no mention in the haynes manual. it would not come off the starter motor and appears to go directly to the alternator. can anyone please confirm whether this is some sort of alternator "please dont try and charge the battery I am currently starting type of thing?" and if so can I simply get another end to put on the starter / new starter.

this is a picture of the end still left on the starter motor, it has sealant near the solenoid and a hole in the bottom I have sprayed WD 40 into the top as it was grindy and difficult to turn, should I simply replace it?

[img:1024:768]http://sandaweb.co.uk/camper/img_0234.jpg[/img]

[img:1024:768]http://sandaweb.co.uk/camper/img_0233.jpg[/img]


any assitance related to this additional starter motor wire, removal of the spare wheel retainer bars, radiator fan / radiator will be gratefully received.

thanks alot.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..

clartsonly
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Post by clartsonly »

help anyone?

I need to know about the wire from the starter to the alternator that I cut through, GSF do not have a clue about it nor the wiki, is it really required? or shall I just cap it off?
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..

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airhead
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Post by airhead »

That motor looks like its seen better days! Ive never seen a wire like that you describe. I reckon its a bodge that is intended to excite the alternator so that it works. The field windings need to be electrified before it will start generating. Because the main input on the motor has a permanent live feed, a lot of people use the terminal as a positive feed for various accessories etc. My bay had about 5 or 6 wires going to it. Only one is necessary, and that goes straight from the battery. Then a smaller wire attaches to a spade terminal on the motor which is the supply which you activate with the key, which kicks out the solenoid, activates some high powered terminals and spins the motor. Now what I suggest you do is strip the motor completely, give it a damn good clean, and believe me it will need it, grease the bearings, replace the brushes and reassemble it. It should work fine then. Jesus that motor looks awful though!
Ross

1987 1.9td Leisuredrive camper.

clartsonly
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Post by clartsonly »

I may consider simply buying a new one from gsf for £85, I reckon that will work out cheaper, quicker and easier.


Thanks for you input regarding the wire, a bodge it may well be, I will try reconnecting without the wire and see whether or not the alternator is charging the battery, my concern is mainly it must have something under the sealent and it does have a hole in it.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..

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airhead
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Post by airhead »

Ah yeah if you can get a new one for £85, then do that. That motor looks like its had it. Ive never seen one so rusty! I cant imagine its much better inside, and I only spotted the hole in the casing now too.
Ross

1987 1.9td Leisuredrive camper.

clartsonly
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Post by clartsonly »

my neighbour may be able to get one from a beetle I am not sure whether or not that fits okay?

I pulled off the silicon and there is a massive hole in it and what looks like a "burnt" wire going from one bolt to the starter motor and it is still grindy when you try and turn it.

I can see the logic in connecting other engine bay items to the live on the starter as originally the batteries were in the back and they are moved into the front when the battery trays rot through, so there must be a lack of wiring going from front to back.


my next main issue is whether I am wasting my time trying to remove the radiator fan, as I forgot to test whether any electricity was going that far before I removed the battery when I had tested bypassing the thermo switch, the temperature gauge has not been working since I got it, so I am wondering whether or not the temperature sensor also is part of the circuit to the radiator fan.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..

jason k
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Post by jason k »

sorry chap, beetle starter motors are different!!

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Post by jason k »

sorry chap, beetle starter motors are different!!

clartsonly
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Post by clartsonly »

thanks I thought as much, looks like a new starter then :(
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..

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