choke adjustment

Post by **Hacksawbob** » 15 Nov 2007, 21:35

which way is for winter?

Post by **toomanytoys** » 15 Nov 2007, 21:45

You will prob find its too closed now if you set it up in the summer... readjust on a cold day....

Post by **Hacksawbob** » 15 Nov 2007, 21:52

cheers Si there are two marks on the choke body one near the rear and one forward I am just getting a picture together which mark is the winter one?

Post by **toomanytoys** » 16 Nov 2007, 10:00

Should be set and forget.....
always remember to do one press on the "loud" peddle when starting from cold, this resets the choke mech for starting..

On a cool day you want to adjust it to the correct gap as per haynes..

then see how you get on... as with anything old and tired there will be a best position you may find it holds the choke on for too long, best to find the sweet spot where its just enough to get started and will run ok for a few mins and not cause problems when warming up (Ie too much choke)

Post by **The Reverend Pimp Daddy** » 16 Nov 2007, 10:04

Mine is booked in with Steve toady for just that problem.....Choke stays on for around 20 miles......Not good

Post by **Hacksawbob** » 16 Nov 2007, 19:25

what are the symptoms of too much choke?

Post by **The Reverend Pimp Daddy** » 16 Nov 2007, 19:54

Well mine was running really fast, and backfiring after a while, the choke would stick on for miles sometimes but,......there's always a but

...The left carb choke was jamming , and the right carb was full of dirt....it ran like a bag of old s***e.....Steve sorted it out, and it now runs spot on.......oh and a new air filter as well

Post by **toomanytoys** » 16 Nov 2007, 20:20

Choked....

rich and stalling when partially warm.... if the carb isnt in good condition and clean then you could be fighting other issues and no amount of adjustment will fix it...

Post by **fairwynds** » 18 Nov 2007, 21:31

Hello All
if these pics help at all (1.9DG engine)
various pics taken when I refurbed my choke unit, mainly due to a problem I traced to be a broken heater wire coil inside the unit, which resulted in the choke staying on too long, until the water temp got up and the bi-metal 'spring' turned the choke off.

May be teaching some to suck eggs but:

The system works via this bi-metal spring, which, as engine cools down, operates the choke valve. With a COLD engine the choke is ON. As soon as you turn the ignition key, 12v is sent through the heating element contained within the base of the choke unit, and held safe by two ceramic grips/clamps. Its like a tiny household heater! It heats up and immediately starts to warm the bi-metal spring/coil which is attached to the choke spindle., this starting to turn the choke off slowly.
At the same time coolant is being pumped through the choke body via alloy tubes. The water heats up the spring coil, and KEEPS the choke off whilst the engine is up to temp.

A common fault with these units (given their age) is for the heater coil to break (like a light bulb filament) meaning the choke remains ON until the engine is really up to temp (ie: several miles!) Not good!

Remember there is a little grub screw holding the choke spindle in place, if you need to dismantle it. Also, note the setting of the unit, the whole thing rotates and is held in place by three screws. I cant recal which way it turns to let choke stay on longer or shorter, sorry! (<<<<anyone?)

Rather than try and source a new unit (which I found near impossible) I took my choke housing to a local watchmaker I know. He drilled and tapped a tiny hole and reclamped the filament with a tiny screw and washer - worked a treat!

So, in no particular order.......

[IMG:640:480]http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l261/ ... MG2270.jpg[/img]

[IMG:640:480]http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l261/ ... MG2268.jpg[/img]

[IMG:640:480]http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l261/ ... MG2274.jpg[/img]

[IMG:640:480]http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l261/ ... MG2272.jpg[/img]

[IMG:640:480]http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l261/ ... MG2275.jpg[/img]