Hello All.
I've just picked up new my new van. Having previously had Aircooled T25's, I've just picked up my first TD. Really happy with it, but...
After drving at 60 for a while, then slowing down (off motorway, fast A road, onto slower road) I get the buzzer of doom!!
I'm sure the oil pressure is alright, but has anyone had this problem. The van runs great at 60 -70, but she is smoking (white/grey) under load and gearchange. I also know she has too much oil in her, about 10mm over the max. I wil check the turbo tonight and see if there is any play in it.
so..
* can too much oil set off the Buzzer?
* if the turbo is fubarred, where to get a replacement?
* anyone fitted an oil pressure gauge?
thanx
Hutch
1.6 TD JX buzzer of doom...
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1.6 TD JX buzzer of doom...
1981 Vanagon Westy Burning oil as fuel...
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Don't know about too much oil setting off your buzzer - what is that anyway? Does that come on with very low oil pressure I take it?
I've fitted an oil press gauge just as a reassurance factor mainly and it works fine. It was an electrical one so only 3 cables, 1 to negative ground, 1 to 12v positive with ignition on and 1 to the sender.
To fit sender I removed the low oil pressure switch and fitted an adaptor with 2 threaded orifices. I then refitted the switch and the new sender. That way you still keep the pressure light.
Hope this helps a bit.
I've fitted an oil press gauge just as a reassurance factor mainly and it works fine. It was an electrical one so only 3 cables, 1 to negative ground, 1 to 12v positive with ignition on and 1 to the sender.
To fit sender I removed the low oil pressure switch and fitted an adaptor with 2 threaded orifices. I then refitted the switch and the new sender. That way you still keep the pressure light.
Hope this helps a bit.

1986 High-top 1.9 Td called Scooby
Forget the smoke for the moment, many do that, if its a blue haze almost certainly turbo seals/oil level, grey/black then poss. too much fuel for the boost level - come back on that one separately later...
Why is it 10mm too high?
Is the dipstick the correct one and the diptsick tube not messed with?
If the oil level is high, then turbo (being very low, a bad design feature) is not able to drain properly, or as quickly, esp on right hand bends.
This 'may' heat up the oil more, so best to change oil* and calibrate/check the dipstick level. With new filter (and std JX, without an extra oil cooler) put 4.5 litres exactly in, spin it over a bit with pump solenoid wire off, replace and start it up, idle for a minute or two and then let it stand for 10 minutes... then check the oil level on the stick a couple of times. It should be near to max. Note it for future reference. Ensure on level ground!
Try that first...
They do have a tendency to get very hot, being TDs, and you may well be experiencing the results of very hot oil...
So although a check with a temp screw in gauge is in order (oil press. specs. in Wiki, as are the specs of the two press,. senders), an oil temp gauge is probably more of an essential item than an oil pressure gauge.
Get back when you've got your oil levels correct...
PS. High oil level also causes more frothing of the oil at high speed, and its known they are critical on fill level, other engines I know of throw most of their oil out when overfilled
PS2. Has it not run-on, on oil yet on right hand bends?
* I've been using GSF's FUCHS Titan Syn Diesel fully synth for a couplemof oil changes now and certianly seems to hold up at high temps, and only £15-50/5 litres and £3-90/litre... added protection in my opnion for these highly stressed engines.
Why is it 10mm too high?
Is the dipstick the correct one and the diptsick tube not messed with?
If the oil level is high, then turbo (being very low, a bad design feature) is not able to drain properly, or as quickly, esp on right hand bends.
This 'may' heat up the oil more, so best to change oil* and calibrate/check the dipstick level. With new filter (and std JX, without an extra oil cooler) put 4.5 litres exactly in, spin it over a bit with pump solenoid wire off, replace and start it up, idle for a minute or two and then let it stand for 10 minutes... then check the oil level on the stick a couple of times. It should be near to max. Note it for future reference. Ensure on level ground!
Try that first...
They do have a tendency to get very hot, being TDs, and you may well be experiencing the results of very hot oil...
So although a check with a temp screw in gauge is in order (oil press. specs. in Wiki, as are the specs of the two press,. senders), an oil temp gauge is probably more of an essential item than an oil pressure gauge.
Get back when you've got your oil levels correct...
PS. High oil level also causes more frothing of the oil at high speed, and its known they are critical on fill level, other engines I know of throw most of their oil out when overfilled

PS2. Has it not run-on, on oil yet on right hand bends?
* I've been using GSF's FUCHS Titan Syn Diesel fully synth for a couplemof oil changes now and certianly seems to hold up at high temps, and only £15-50/5 litres and £3-90/litre... added protection in my opnion for these highly stressed engines.
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