Here we go again another stupid question
is it possible to weld up the seams on the rear bodywork? im about to replace the rear sides with new and all I read about the seams is that they rot out so why keep them other than for ease of repair due to dings or accidents.
Im sure you guys will be rolling around laughing at this question but hey if you dont know ask !!!!!
So go on fill your boots
Perro
Really stupid question time RE Body seams
Moderators: User administrators, Moderators
- SplendiferousII
- Registered user
- Posts: 178
- Joined: 01 Aug 2006, 08:09
- 80-90 Mem No: 2893
- Location: Membership No 2893 Cornwall / Gloucestershire
- jamesc76
- Registered user
- Posts: 6241
- Joined: 14 Oct 2005, 14:42
- 80-90 Mem No: 1186
- Location: Nottingham
- Contact:
easyily done and y not but do a little bit at a time to avoid distortion and obv. you will need to flap back the welds and smooth up with filler but main reason they rot out is no protection on the back so after you have all your new panels on and sorted spray the back with underseal to help prevent it !!!
DJ at Dubdayz Summerfest
Now cutting about in an LT35 MWB
Now cutting about in an LT35 MWB
- mister smith
- Registered user
- Posts: 76
- Joined: 01 Mar 2007, 17:47
- 80-90 Mem No: 0
- Location: everywhere and nowhere, baby
Seams go because they can be a moisture trap. Are you gonna weld the inner as well just to make sure? (No is the answer
) Fully welded on the outside & left open on the inside is useless.
My point being: no point in welding it anyway, thats just over kill.
By the time you've flatted it back, there won't be much weld there, and all it will be doing is filling a gap. Thats what filler is for
If filling with weld, then flatting back, you will end up removing metal from the new panel to get the weld flush, then it wont be the seam itself that goes through first, it will be the metal right next to the seam!
Im not going to mention all the other issues, like distortion and the join becoming brittle & weak through excess heat, the double heating from flatting back the weld, etc etc.
Short story is welding these seams is overkill, just make sure the seam is sound to start with (remove the black 'holding primer' that absorbs moisture), prep it well & seal it with good filler & good paint. There's a lot to be said for waxing paintwork to look after it too.

My point being: no point in welding it anyway, thats just over kill.
By the time you've flatted it back, there won't be much weld there, and all it will be doing is filling a gap. Thats what filler is for
If filling with weld, then flatting back, you will end up removing metal from the new panel to get the weld flush, then it wont be the seam itself that goes through first, it will be the metal right next to the seam!
Im not going to mention all the other issues, like distortion and the join becoming brittle & weak through excess heat, the double heating from flatting back the weld, etc etc.
Short story is welding these seams is overkill, just make sure the seam is sound to start with (remove the black 'holding primer' that absorbs moisture), prep it well & seal it with good filler & good paint. There's a lot to be said for waxing paintwork to look after it too.
- vanjam
- Registered user
- Posts: 31
- Joined: 25 Feb 2006, 02:54
- 80-90 Mem No: 1966
- Location: shrewsbury, shropshire
I agree with Mister Smith! Those nice 1mm wide grinding discs allow you to cut a fair way into the rusty seam and clean, rust-treat and fill then paint. If you can get to the backside all the better. I'm trying to scrounge some medical intravenous tubing and a suitable syringe to drip rust treatment into 1mm holes drilled at intervals in seams after grinding.
1985 1900DG wc liesuredrive hitop with small amounts of rust