diesel overheating when driving down motorway?
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diesel overheating when driving down motorway?
my van starts overheating when driving hard down motorway and starts to cool down again when i slow down, i have purchased a coolant pressure testing kit, i have the pump on the expansion bottle now, i am leaving it pumped at 13 pound for about 1 hour, the needle drops very slightly maybe about 1 mm,and then stops where it is. is this usual for a pressure pump to do this?
i cant see any visable leaks.
i have no instructions with this pump im just getting the jist of how you do it by looking at articles on the net.
also would it be a good idea to take out thermostat and pump it up again?
any advice appreciated
thanks.
i cant see any visable leaks.
i have no instructions with this pump im just getting the jist of how you do it by looking at articles on the net.
also would it be a good idea to take out thermostat and pump it up again?
any advice appreciated
thanks.
pressure test
i found a slight leak on the heater matrix pipe where the jubilee clip had cut into pipe, i have fixed that and repumped the needle has hardly moved in about 10 mins.
anyone got any instructions for using this pressure tester as im just guestimating most of how its used.
thanks
John
anyone got any instructions for using this pressure tester as im just guestimating most of how its used.
thanks
John
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Hey
What engine do you have? i assume from your other post its a 1.6 n/a D?
When you say driving hard. how hard? my 4 speed 1.6n/a D can do 70mph but doing so causes the heat gage to rise fast and the fuel gage to fall even faster.
Maybe you have some air in the system as well?
let us know
Jon
What engine do you have? i assume from your other post its a 1.6 n/a D?
When you say driving hard. how hard? my 4 speed 1.6n/a D can do 70mph but doing so causes the heat gage to rise fast and the fuel gage to fall even faster.
Maybe you have some air in the system as well?
let us know
Jon
Its big, Its Blue, Its mine!
I have no idea what you're doing with this pump or what the desired effect is supposed to be ...
But ...driving "hard" on the motorway in a T25 diesel is a surefire way to kill it. Regardless of whether it's turbo or not ...if its' a diesel, 60-65 mph is your max. motorway speed.
Anything above that is a death sentence by overheating.
Best to stick with the lorries in the slow lane.
But ...driving "hard" on the motorway in a T25 diesel is a surefire way to kill it. Regardless of whether it's turbo or not ...if its' a diesel, 60-65 mph is your max. motorway speed.
Anything above that is a death sentence by overheating.
Best to stick with the lorries in the slow lane.
diesel
ok first of all its a 1.9 n/a polo engine that i recently fitted.
the only reason i drove it hard for about 10 mins was to see if it would start overheating.
which it did.
but my old 1.6d never used to overheat like this, not as far as i can remember anyway.
so i assumed air was getting in the system, i have bled the rad a few times.
so i aquired a used coolant pressure pump from ebay but it came with no instructions.
you pump in air and see if the system holds pressure, if not you look for leaks if you cant see any them it could be a cracked head or head gasket.
but i want to know how long the coolant pressure pump stays under pressure for and the tolerences in the gauge when losing pressure.
ie is it usual for it to drop slightly even if there is no leak or should it not move at all not even a fraction?
and over which period of time? ie 5 mins 10mins ?
i have found a couple of leaks so far.
which i have repaired.
so any help on this would be appreciated.
the only reason i drove it hard for about 10 mins was to see if it would start overheating.
which it did.
but my old 1.6d never used to overheat like this, not as far as i can remember anyway.
so i assumed air was getting in the system, i have bled the rad a few times.
so i aquired a used coolant pressure pump from ebay but it came with no instructions.
you pump in air and see if the system holds pressure, if not you look for leaks if you cant see any them it could be a cracked head or head gasket.
but i want to know how long the coolant pressure pump stays under pressure for and the tolerences in the gauge when losing pressure.
ie is it usual for it to drop slightly even if there is no leak or should it not move at all not even a fraction?
and over which period of time? ie 5 mins 10mins ?
i have found a couple of leaks so far.
which i have repaired.
so any help on this would be appreciated.
- Westy.Club.Joker
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Does the cooling system hold pressure overnight ? ie, if you have a look in the morning when it`s cooled overnight, if you undo the pressure cap on the coolant header tank (NOT the expansion tank behind the number-plate flap) does it release pressure as you undo it and the coolant level rise a bit? If you have pressure here then your cooling system should be OK, as it`s holding pressure.
When you say the temp gauge rises when driving hard on the motorway, does it rise a lot? Mine usually runs with the needle almost central over the red LED in the gauge, it will climb slightly if working hard (came over Shap yesterday working hard, was down to 54 mph by the top) and the needle was just at the top end of the LED. As soon as we got over the top the needle dropped back to normal again.
It does sounds like you may have air in the system, especially if the heater hose wasn`t fully secure. I would give it a thorough bleeding again. I did mine this morning as I wasn`t sure if I had any air in the rad (it`s a long story but I`d lost some coolant from the tank due to the elctric rad fan not cutting in, which is another job on the list). Got a little bit of air out, everything else as it should be so I`m happy.
The idea of the pressure pump type thing you`ve got is just to test the system as you are doing, pump in around 10 psi and see if it holds it, if it doesn`t look for leaks, or possible head trouble. If your system holds pressure overnight as mine does then I can`t see there being a problem there. Maybe try attaching the pump/gauge to the header tank and then run the engine and see if the pressure increases a lot. Not sure what the sytem is supposed to run at, but I wouldn`t think more than about 1 BAR (14 PSI) If it climbs a lot then it looks like a head/gasket problem as the system is getting over pressurised.
When you say the temp gauge rises when driving hard on the motorway, does it rise a lot? Mine usually runs with the needle almost central over the red LED in the gauge, it will climb slightly if working hard (came over Shap yesterday working hard, was down to 54 mph by the top) and the needle was just at the top end of the LED. As soon as we got over the top the needle dropped back to normal again.
It does sounds like you may have air in the system, especially if the heater hose wasn`t fully secure. I would give it a thorough bleeding again. I did mine this morning as I wasn`t sure if I had any air in the rad (it`s a long story but I`d lost some coolant from the tank due to the elctric rad fan not cutting in, which is another job on the list). Got a little bit of air out, everything else as it should be so I`m happy.
The idea of the pressure pump type thing you`ve got is just to test the system as you are doing, pump in around 10 psi and see if it holds it, if it doesn`t look for leaks, or possible head trouble. If your system holds pressure overnight as mine does then I can`t see there being a problem there. Maybe try attaching the pump/gauge to the header tank and then run the engine and see if the pressure increases a lot. Not sure what the sytem is supposed to run at, but I wouldn`t think more than about 1 BAR (14 PSI) If it climbs a lot then it looks like a head/gasket problem as the system is getting over pressurised.
Keep it real.
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pressure
it starts off just to past middle but when i was driving it on motorway it went up to 3/4 then started going higher so i pulled of motorway till it cooled down.
im starting to think that these vans are more trouble than they are worth.
i have had this van for about 6 years and this is the third engine its had and now it looks like this is a crapper too.
which is annoying as i was told by the garage i bought it off that it was a good low mileage unit.
now my welder has just broke, im not having a good day.
im starting to think that these vans are more trouble than they are worth.
i have had this van for about 6 years and this is the third engine its had and now it looks like this is a crapper too.
which is annoying as i was told by the garage i bought it off that it was a good low mileage unit.
now my welder has just broke, im not having a good day.
- Westy.Club.Joker
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After reading through a lot of cooling probs. posts this afternoon, your symptoms may well be a blocked radiator. Would be worth dropping the water out and flushing the rad both ways to see if that helps, someone else posted on this and the rad cured the problem.
Correct bleeding method isn`t always straight-forward either.
Correct bleeding method isn`t always straight-forward either.
Keep it real.
Search first - ask second ;>}
Search first - ask second ;>}
jawal
the rad is brand new.
as i had a similar problem when i put in the second 1.6d engine, with that engine i just ran it for a year with the thermostat out.
but when i put in this new engine i put on a brand new rad incase thats what the problem was, but its still the same.
so its not the rad.
thanks for replying westy i appreciate it.
as i had a similar problem when i put in the second 1.6d engine, with that engine i just ran it for a year with the thermostat out.
but when i put in this new engine i put on a brand new rad incase thats what the problem was, but its still the same.
so its not the rad.
thanks for replying westy i appreciate it.
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