Lock barrel sticking
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Lock barrel sticking
Both my cab door triggers have gone in the last month. To keep everything on the same key, I managed to get hold of two handles in good nick but minus their barrels. I've taken mine out of the old handles, given them a clean and fitted them in my 'new' handles.
It's not the smooth transition I was hoping for. The key goes into the barrel but refuses to turn without some serious encouragement (it's feels jammed as if it isn't the right key). When it does turn it's stiff and can feel like it's catching somewhere although there is nothing obvious I can see. Anyone else experienced this when transferring barrels or have any insight? Cheers.
It's not the smooth transition I was hoping for. The key goes into the barrel but refuses to turn without some serious encouragement (it's feels jammed as if it isn't the right key). When it does turn it's stiff and can feel like it's catching somewhere although there is nothing obvious I can see. Anyone else experienced this when transferring barrels or have any insight? Cheers.
1985 Super Viking with Subaru EJ22 (formerly 1.9 petrol DG)
1981 air-cooled 2.0 high top
1981 air-cooled 2.0 high top
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Re: Lock barrel sticking
Take the barrels out and grease the pins from the outside of the barrel put the key in and out to get it work its way in and go for a water proof silicone grease 

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Re: Lock barrel sticking
They will no doubt be gummed up with grime. Youll need to take the barrels out of the handles and give them a clean up and regrease as has been suggested already
1985 LeisureDrive 2.1DJ 5 Speed syncro conversion project.
1979 LT 2.0 CH Westy project
1986 LT 2.4 D24T Reimo
1979 LT 2.0 CH Westy project
1986 LT 2.4 D24T Reimo
Re: Lock barrel sticking
Thanks both. Barrels have been out and thoroughly cleaned. Didn’t grease them before putting them back in so will look at this. At the moment they sometimes move freely and at other times feel jammed, like it’s the wrong key and you have to keep wiggling and turning until it works.
1985 Super Viking with Subaru EJ22 (formerly 1.9 petrol DG)
1981 air-cooled 2.0 high top
1981 air-cooled 2.0 high top
Re: Lock barrel sticking
So I’m at a loss. Both barrels were working fine in old handles. Have been removed, cleaned and placed in new handles, now greased with WD40 silicone and still not working properly. Sometimes they jam and then rotate and sometimes they rotate and jam. I can’t see anything within the mech that is causing this. I’m assuming there is no early/late handle for the cab.
Looks like two new cab handles and another key!
Looks like two new cab handles and another key!
1985 Super Viking with Subaru EJ22 (formerly 1.9 petrol DG)
1981 air-cooled 2.0 high top
1981 air-cooled 2.0 high top
- Mocki
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Re: Lock barrel sticking
Only thing i can think is the old barrels are worn and the new handles are not, maybe give the new handles a bit of a swirl about with Emory cloth or alike in the barrel hole ??
Steve
tel / txt O7947-137911

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1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper
tel / txt O7947-137911
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1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper
Re: Lock barrel sticking
Cheers Mocki. Will give it a try.
1985 Super Viking with Subaru EJ22 (formerly 1.9 petrol DG)
1981 air-cooled 2.0 high top
1981 air-cooled 2.0 high top
Re: Lock barrel sticking
Is a worn key or worn wafers working in a less worn handle bore a likely culprit for this problem?
- Jim San
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Re: Lock barrel sticking
This is what I found, mine mostly due to worn key, I carefully filed tips of wafers to counteract wear, not ideal but otherwise it would mean everything needed renewing- that will ultimately happen
Best lube for locks and barrels is graphite powder, it's dry so is less prone to holding crud
1991 (LHD) Syncro kombi 1.9MTDi 1Z (Landy fuel pump) 215/70/16
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Re: Lock barrel sticking
the slot in the wafers wears from key insertion as they gradually become seized so they no longer line up with the barrel when key is in, but as it is a gradual issue the wafers wear their own path in the handle bore - swapping them means different wear patterns as op has found - new wafers might help