No clutch? Pedal not depressing fully

[T25boy71]

Was driving went to change gear came out of gear wouldn’t go into another gear so so coasted into a layby.
Tried to put it in gear wouldn’t go in clutch pedal doesn’t fully depress managed to start it in gear and drive home without using the clutch
clutch release, bearing has always been noisy 
any ideas what the problem could be for what I need to look at
Many thanks in advance

[Oldiebut goodie]

Clevis pin/pedal worn is one possibility:

[T25boy71]

I did see that post I’m having trouble getting my hand up to the pin, there is a small amount of movement on the clutch pedal and when depressed the slave cylinder has some movement on the arm on the gearbox but not much, i did notice a very slight slip in the clutch like a delayed release then I when to change up a gear pressed the pedal it went down but not as far as normal I pulled it out of gear went to go up a gear and it didn’t go in so I coasted in to a side street, sat there thinking   how long will I have to wait for the rac to get us home, so I tried the gears with out the engine running or pressing the clutch and they went in fine, home was 4 miles with minimal stopping the engine was still warm so I started it in 1st gear and slowly drove drop the revs and gently eased it out of one gear up to the next no Crunching went up to 3rd and stayed it that got home fine 
the gearbox is a dogleg 5 speed on a 1z engine so I don’t know what clutch setup is in there engine fitted 2005 long before I get him 

[Aidan]

If it isn't the pedal end then chances are the clutch fork has either broken or release bearing come off.
Access to see what's going on at the pedal is pants, one of those cheap borescopes that fit your phone would be handy to assess that end. 

Probably time to drop the gearbox and find out what clutch set up you have, it will more than likely be a standard 215mm diesel clutch from that era, not many were doing upgrade to TDi flywheel and clutch or DMF back then, in fact I don't know if anyone did as Yaeger was able to supply a stronger special 215mm clutch back then but Sachs stopped making them for him.

[davidoft1]

check the bolts on the clutch slave, ive had the pushrod pop out and jam, have someone operate the clutch and watch what all the bits do to rule out something quick and simple 

[T25boy71]

check the bolts on the clutch slave, ive had the pushrod pop out and jam, have someone operate the clutch and watch what all the bits do to rule out something quick and simple 

The slave pushes down about 10 to 15 mm on the arm below it 
the pedal moves about 50/60 mm then stops 

if I unbolt/loosen the clutch slave I should be ales to see if I get more pedal and slave movement which could point to the clutch fork/release bearing being the problem 
the gearbox dose leak where the gear Selector enters so will probably have to drop the box.
 

[mioba]

No need to drop the box for the leak. There is a blue spring loaded washer in there. Undo the selector. Pull it out and replace washer.
The nut has a very low torque - dont overdo. you will snap the end.

When was the fluid last changed - bled.

[T25boy71]

No need to drop the box for the leak. There is a blue spring loaded washer in there. Undo the selector. Pull it out and replace washer.
The nut has a very low torque - dont overdo. you will snap the end.

When was the fluid last changed - bled.

I’ve not done a fluid change on the clutch side.

[mioba]

Well you should do it at the same time as your brake fluid.
Hope the cylinder nipple isnt goosed - which they usually are. Cylinder is cheap as chips from GSF, a pain in the ass to change.

[T25boy71]

Just an update 
the pin and hole in pedal have lots of ware and the clevis was jamming on the underside of the pedal.

I did notice the clevis is much wider than the arm 
I’m thinking of packing it out a bit as the same clevis and in is used on the brake pedal and there’s no play it that at all any thoughts 
I also need to get a new pin but BW are out of stock I will be welding this up and re drilling the 8mm hole I may weld a washer each side to pack it out
 

[Oldiebut goodie]

I don't see any need for it to be packed out, weld up, re-drill and new pin is enough. I was wondering about bushing the hole but decided that there wasn't enough meat on the pedal for that. That hole had lasted 30 years so the new one will last quite well enough as it is.
You can see that mine had been adjusted by a previous owner rather than repair hence the total failure. ( at traffic lights of course )

[T25boy71]

Found a new pin From JK have them more pricey than BW but I needed it so what can you do.
I will probably just weld and drill new hole but if Vw had made the pedals the same gauge metal this would not wear out like this

[Aidan]

get a steel tube that the clevis pin will fit inside then cut to length to fit in between the clevis and weld that into the hole and you will have a very long lived and smoother operating pedal with a larger bearing surface, that's what my machine shop did to mine when it wore all the way through the original pedal

[R0B]

You have to remember VW never intended these vans to be on the road this long.

Found a new pin From JK have them more pricey than BW but I needed it so what can you do.
I will probably just weld and drill new hole but if Vw had made the pedals the same gauge metal this would not wear out like this

 

[T25boy71]

Ok so sorted out the pedal side 
I’ve drop the gearbox the clutch release bearing has rotated a bit and jammed the fork there’s a lot of muck in the bell housing most of which has come in from no cover on timing hole and half the flywheel cover plate missing,  the engine is a 1z any idea what flywheel cover plate I can use and what parts I need clutch spigot bearing etc
 Some photos 
any advice very much appreciated