T25 CS1600 diesel head gasket procedure

[Paul7502]

Hi, well... New to the forum ...Hello.

The story so far...

I bought a T25 Transporter D in January last year which was perfect timing just after Xmas when everyone is skint and in lockdown, no one bid against me on ebay, it was illegal to go and view it, illegal delivery lockdown included in the price ...perfect.

It spent a year in a mates garden and I did loads of welding and replaced various panels.

It was MOT exempt on January 1st this year and is tax exempt in April.(now taxed)

I insured it and drove it round the village a bit but did not venture onto the main road because the indicator stalk was defective and the LED on the dash didn't work so I didn't know if I was indicating or not.

I got a new stalk and ventured onto the main road and risked going to the shops about 5 miles away.
On the way back it was running lumpy and lacked power.
I looked at the engine and noticed oil all over it, not sure where from but top end and it was hot, oil looks clean.

Next day I tried to start it but no joy, close but not close enough.

I guess it's the head gasket but I'm not certain.

Does that sound like the head gasket?

I have bought a new gasket but can't find the procedure instructions online and the only manual I can find is one from Justkampers, I don't want to buy it if it's crap.
I bought a download manual but I can't open it on my phone, I will try a computer when I can access one.

I read on here that the easiest way to do it is to drop the engine but would prefer to do it with the engine in place because it is on the road not a drive way ect.

Is it possible to do it without taking the engine out?

Do I need new bolts? (I am very poor and prefer not to spend money)
L
Can anyone give me step by step instructions or point me to them?

Thanks in advance ect gurus please help.

[multisi]

The Peter Russek manual is very good for diesel work, someone on here said Just kampers do it now.

[davidoft1]

I would have another good look, it could be a fuel leak causing the mess and lack of starting, clean everything off and inspect for spilt pipes, the small return ( leak off) pipes a very common to leak

The head gasket can be done in with the engine in

Where are you based, pop some engine pictures up too, perhaps we can spot something

[clift_d]

I believe the Bentley manual also covers the N/A diesels. The Russek manual covers both the N/A and TD diesels and, as above, Just Kampers publish a reprint which you can get here.

If you drop me a PM I can also send you a couple of links to download PDF copies of the relevant VW Workshop manuals for the CS/JX/KY diesel engines.

[Paul7502]

Thanks for the replies.

I will take your advice and get the Just Kampers manual.

I will also see if I can get some photos.

I didn't mention earlier that it was smokey on the way back.

I don't want to start the job until I know what I am doing and can be sure to finish it.

I expect the manual will arrive next week.

[Mocki]

Thanks for the replies.



I will also see if I can get some photos.

[davidoft1]

Thanks for the replies.

I will take your advice and get the Just Kampers manual.

I will also see if I can get some photos.

I didn't mention earlier that it was smokey on the way back.

I don't want to
start the job until I know what I am doing and can be sure to finish it.

I expect the manual will arrive next week.

Don’t start any job unless you’re certain you’re fixing the correct fault, it gets very expensive very quickly otherwise

[Paul7502]

I am not certain at all..

I have done a mondeo ààand a few overhead valve engines.

Any advice is welcome.

I wiall need to get stuck in when I get the manual, hopefully the PDF version will arrive via a link hereaa. (Putting off buying the Just Kampers version until Monday ...cos I am very poor and if the PDF version turns up I will save me money).

Another question is what is the relay in the engine bay supposed to do?
It is disconnected and bypassed, I start it by connecting the battery to the solonoid.a

Can I use the same bolts?

Thanks for the replies

[Paul7502]

Hi, the plot thickens...



I bought the JK manual and it seems OK.

I took the cam belt off then looked to see what needed to be done when I noticed the broken injector pipe in the photos.

It sounded like it was running on three when it was last running so I will source a new pipe and see if that works.

Also there is a split in the rubber coolant pipe which goes to the cylinder head.

If anyone has or knows of a source of said pipes I would appreciate ...well ... Negotiable...

Will update in future...

First I will try to get the cam belt back in the same position...

FFS

[mrhutch]

there should be a rubber backed metal clamp on the injector lines - find one of these and fit it otherwise you'll be back in the same position

full set of pipes with clamp here https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... 1-6td.html

clamp only here https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... -pipe.html

single pipes available here https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... m.html?p=2

[Cecil]

These are for turbo diesel. Brickwerks do show a full set for the 1.6 D engine, make sure you order the correct ones!

there should be a rubber backed metal clamp on the injector lines - find one of these and fit it otherwise you'll be back in the same position

full set of pipes with clamp here https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... 1-6td.html

clamp only here https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... -pipe.html

single pipes available here https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... m.html?p=2

[mrhutch]

you're right, I missed the OP has a CS

Cheers @Cecil

[davidoft1]

Are you just pulling the head off without diagnosis?

[mrhutch]

Are you just pulling the head off without diagnosis?

my thoughts exactly, the CS isn't known for blowing HG's

[Paul7502]

Are you just pulling the head off without diagnosis?

No, I took the belt off and marked everything, I had difficulty getting it back on and gave up, I will try again tomorrow.

I am not taking the head off now but was about to do so when I spotted the two problems.
The problems caused overheating, smoke and it was running on 3 ...double whammy.

I am thinking of soldering a bit of tube over the broken injector pipe and soldering it.
Not sure if it will work but worth a try.

I think I can get away with cutting the end off the water pipe and push it on a bit more.

Is there any way to make the special tools required to do the cam timing or do I have to buy the proper ones?

I will try to get it back on iagain in the same position but not sure if I can do it ( I have removed the tensioner and belt but nothing else).
Not sure if the timing will be perfect if I do get it on anyway so might need to do the timing.