Splitting Engine For Auto Box

[maxstu]

Im ready to remove DJ 2.1 engine leaving autobox in place.
Three questions....
1/ Haynes manual reads (solely for autos) to disconnect throttle linkage rod from kickdown lever. Yes or no? Ive removed plenum chamber and supporting throttle body.
2/ Remove transmission fluid dipstick and dipstick tube grommet. Yes or no? Cant see how this impedes lowering engine a few inches.
3/ How should the final drive be supported from below and best procedure to stop torque converter from coming out too?
Regards
Stuart

Throttle body

Auto fluid dipstick

[davidoft1]

You can work around the dipstick and throttle but be careful not to damage them

Unless you’re unlucky the torque converter won’t just fall out , however if you have the gearbox at a steep angle it can slide off, once you’ve undone the 3 bolts you can just push in the torque converter with a screwdriver whilst you’re removing the engine , I usually lace a few zip ties across the torque converter to the holes in the gearbox to stop it sliding out

[maxstu]

Thanks David,

Im going in!

[maxstu]

I usually lace a few zip ties across the torque converter to the holes in the gearbox to stop it sliding out

I used bungee cords around the drive shafts and hooked on to the torque converter fins. Worked a treat.
One issue l had was with the two lower bell housing studs. Being much longer than the originals on the engine l removed. So once mated to bell housing there was no room to fit nut and no threaded bit for mating engine to gearbox. So had to push back replacement engine and remove lower studs. Then fit the studs from original engine. Took me 20 mins. Then l realised the original studs were not fully wound down in the replacement engine!
Live and learn. Live and learn.
Got there in the end. Tomorrow is wiring and plumbing and partial exhaust assembly.
Could be running by 3pm.

[ajsimmo]

Looks like I'm a bit late to the party, but pretty sure I answered most of this earlier...
Did you leave it in park so the gearbox is locked and will support its own weight via torsion in the driveshafts? That way it doesn't drop far enough to need to undo throttle rod or anything else, and torque converter won't fall out. Just don't forget, jump in the cab and move it into neutral (ask me how I know I also use a trolley jack as a JIC).
I use a single cable tie through the TC fins and bellhousing as belt n braces. Quick & easy.
Oh yeah, don't forgot the auto studs are shorter...
Hope it's all going smoothly.

Sent from my moto g(30) using Tapatalk

[maxstu]

Hello Andrew,
Thanks for replying. You most likely did explain procedure earlier. I have a sieve for brains.
For other auto owners'.
Yes keep in park. Raise rear by about one foot to allow for 20 inches of gap between floor and rear valance. Remove plenum, pipes and flexplate bolts. Made easier with a rattle gun. Retain torque converter by one of many methods raised earlier. Relax gearbox bush bolt and drop engine by about 3 inches. Support gearbox. I did this with a piece of 2x2" wood jammed into one rear suspension arm and resting other end on the floor. A good height.

Keeping TC in place with bungee cords around drive shafts.



Brilliant lightweight battery rattle gun. Ideal for small stubborn or rusty nuts and bolts.



And yes, engine to bell housing studs are shorter on an auto.

Which leads me to another question. Will start on another page...

[maxstu]

When the camper blew its coolant, l heard a distinct loud pop and saw in my mirrors a cloud of steam. I thought this came from the water pump bearing (it did too) letting go.
Today l took a look at the distribution coolant tower and found this actually caused the big pop!



Not a problem. I have a spare. Five minutes later. Ta daaa! But its not the same!

New one on the right is late auto 251121438A.
Old one is 251121438B genuine VW.



All the pipework leading to the original tower is from a manual vehicle and not an auto. MY QUESTION IS...
should l buy a new manual tower? Or plug the two unneeded spigots (whatever they do) in the new one l already have?
I can cut this pipe and add to spigots.



Regards
Stuart

[maxstu]

Just read up online. The two small spigots are feed/return for auto transmission cooler. Oh dear!
I need to get under and investigate this one!