Idle speed and mixture help 2.0 cu

[diesel11]

Hi all, having fitted a powerspark distributor set the timing 8 degrees btdc vacuum pipe blocked off, as in sarran's video's, right time to sort out the mixture and idle speed, so idling around 1500 /1600 rpm( with throttle linkages off of both carbs) reading and looking through various manuals and videos tried to adjust the idle screw ( left hand carb) right hand side at the top, it's screwed all the way in before I even tried adjusting it, if I wind it out the idle speed increases as I assume it should? I've tried adjusting the other idle screw as the Haynes manual says and it doesn't appear to make much difference? I've looked at the co reading and it's approx 2.5 % at idle which I think is well within spec? I've got a cheap carb balancer which isn't much use but unsure if I've got the carb mixtures right, when I removed the plugs they would indicate that she's running a bit rich,there is a slight hesitation when you blip the throttle but engine seems to rev easily and idle is smooth just fast,any help would be great

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[diesel11]

Oh and all vacuum pipes and elbows on balance pipes are all good no splits or cracks, forgot to mention

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[bigherb]

Check the timing again to see if it is advanced, the Power spark distributors are hit and miss sometimes they are OK others the advance and retard sicks and doesn't return.

[diesel11]

Hey bigherb, I've checked the timing with everything re connected and it's still say 8degrees, btdc? With the vacuum pipe off of the dizzy and blocked off the idle speed is not too far off around 1000 rpm but with it re connected to the dizzy it goes back up again? Any suggestions for the timing I'm tempted to retard it a little bit?

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[bigherb]

You have blanked off the vac pipe to goes to the manifold? Only the vac pipe that goes to the carb is needed.

[diesel11]

Yeah only the vac pipe to the bottom of the left hand carb was blocked off when setting the timing, I know that remote diagnostics are a nightmare sorry

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[davidoft1]

Check all the solenoids are working on the carbs , The one to the left of the idle screw will cause idle issues.

Why did you change the distributor?
Were you using a twin vac can distributor before ?

[diesel11]

Yeah was standard twin vac before, I'd never been happy with the performance especially when pulling up hill or pulling off from a junction, a few people recommended changing it to a power spark one they said that the difference it made is amazing, I wasn't expecting rocket ship power just something a little more useable, which two of the solenoids are you referring to? The rectangular shape one or the one that goes on to the part where the two idle screws are?

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[bigherb]

Not when you are checking the timing. The vac pipe that went from the distributor to the manifold balance pipe needs to be permanently blanked off. Put a picture up off how you have the vac pipes now.

[diesel11]

Ah sorry my mistake you mean the one behind the air filter box? If you do yeah that's blocked off, I'll stick some pictures up tomorrow, cheers guys

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[diesel11]

Hi all, sorry for not getting the pictures up this morning, so you can just make out the vac pipe I have blocked off perminantly,
There is also a picture of the left hand carb, the white arrow is pointing at the idle adjuster screw( if I'm correct?) This was already wound right to the bottom so I can't slow it down anymore than it already is? The purple arrow is also an idle screw( if I'm correct?) This doesn't seem to make any difference at all to the idle speed?
I've also attached two pictures of the left and right carbs, once the choke is fully off should these screws have a gap from the stop, to enable adjustment? Because they don't seem to move from the position they are in?
The only way I can slow the engine speed is to wind the air/fuel mixture screws right in and off about half a turn but this obviously alters my co to way to weak. Hopefully that has made some sort of sense?

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[bigherb]

Something is wrong then, the throttle stops should be touching, remove the ball socket links from each carb so the accelerator linkage is disconnected. If the stops then touch, the problem is the accelerator linkage/cable is holding the throttle open. And do something about that crap wiring those terminals should all be at least insulated.

[diesel11]

I have already removed the throttle linkage completely,as sarran has demonstrated in one of his video's the throttle stops stay where they are wether the choke is on or not, I wasn't sure if they should have a gap when the choke is on then go back to the position they are in now or not? The wiring harness is on my ever growing list of problems to sort out, don't panic

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[bigherb]

Then only the choke linkage can be holding them open or they have been screwed out to mask another problem (air leak in the manifold system). When the chokes are off, there shouldn't be any tension in the choke link.

[diesel11]

Excuse my ignorance, so you are saying there should be a gap on those throttle stops while the choke is "on" then when the engine is up to temp the throttle stops should be in the position they are now?

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