Virgin DG1900 Stripdown With Photos. Oooer!

[maxstu]

Gotcha!

Never been this far with a wasserboxer engine before. But needs must as lm between a rock and a hard place. Out of work and living on savings at presents. Hence have plenty of time on my hands..
This engine is an early 1.9 DG with a crank suffering from a huge amount end play and nearly locking on TDC number one cylinder. See previous post:
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=167334" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.

First l purchased a new engine stand off eBay. Cost with delivery £47.00. It does make spannering so much easier. Shame they dont come with wheel locks though. But a size 10 boot works equally well.



All ancillaries were swapped to the 2.1 lm now running in camper. However the 2.1 has developed a compression leak. So l want to strip this engine and see whether its economically rebuildable using as few new parts as possible. Then temporarily swap out 2.1 and fit new seals etc. Hopefully the 1.9 will keep the camper going while l fix the 2.1.

Posting more in 20 mins

[maxstu]

The dreaded head nuts were tackled earlier today. In reverse order to assembly, l treated each nut to a minimum of 2 mins 30 secs (timed) direct heating with a quality blow torch. And after heating, each nut was given a minor whack on its crown using an old extension bar and club hammer. I used a half inch impact deep socket and a torque wrench. However number eight nut (first off) is so close to the head wall for this, l started with 3/8 socket and adaptor up to half inch on wrench firstly. Then reverted for the other seven nuts. Applied same technique to both sides. And two hours later on.





Both heads removed. One liner came away. But not an issue as lm heading further in.



Slight upward hand pressure on the rocker cover clip helps when applying runber mallet abuse to bring off heads. Not for carrying removed heads please.

[maxstu]

As lm heading for the crank l didnt bother removing pistons from conrods. I could do that later with an appropriate size socket and vice.
I used a 250mm wobbly extension bar mated with a 14 mm socket to go behind pistons' skirt and remove conrod nuts. Early DG bolts, lve read somewhere, are reuseable? More on this later.

With the engine stand swiveling through 180% this way isdead easy. And l applied an extending magnet to capture loose nuts each time. But you could let nuts fall through onto floor.
at this.

Three hours' work gave me this

[maxstu]

More later tonight. Happy valentines

[bobajob67]

Great post - looking forward to seeing how you get on. I've feeling I'll be doing something similar at some point.

Hope it goes well and doesn't cost too much

Bob

[maxstu]

Great post - looking forward to seeing how you get on. I've feeling I'll be doing something similar at some point.

Hope it goes well and doesn't cost too much

Bob

Thanks for the kinds words Bob. Good to hear from you

[maxstu]

So here's my first question:
I spent half an hour trying to remove the dizzy shaft. Tried a M6 rawbolt as a puller. But slips off.
Do l need to remove shaft before splitting case? Can oil pump stay in place to?
Regards
Stuart

[maxstu]

So here's my first question:
I spent half an hour trying to remove the dizzy shaft. Tried a M6 rawbolt as a puller. But slips off.
Do l need to remove shaft before splitting case? Can oil pump stay in place to?
Regards
Stuart

[937carrera]

First l purchased a new engine stand off eBay. Cost with delivery £47.00. It does make spannering so much easier. Shame they dont come with wheel locks though. But a size 10 boot works equally well.

Not always... I ended up drilling off some head bolts on one engine a couple of years ago, the torx bit either shattered (cheap good tools) or twisted (expensive snap-on). Sometime you need a bench or wall to lean against too. Anyway enough of my trials and back to yours.

Decent progress there. The distributor drive can be inserted / removed without disassembling the case, so fine for you to leave it in and remove it later. I can't remember what the one in a WBX looks like, but I know I used a carved wooden stick to insert / remove the one on my first engine rebuild many years ago, a VW 412. I think I have lost that special tool over the years

Oil pump can be left too

[maxstu]

Thanks. Oil pump sealant is causing me grief with splitting cases. Just walking back home to pick up puller.
More to come

Talking out of my backside. Just pulled out pump getting my finger nails behind casing and wiggling.

[itchyfeet]

yes you have to remove oil pump because its held with studs, you could hage removed all 4 studs as an alternative..

No you don't need to take dizzy drive out but I'd have it on the lower side and lift off the oposite side.
in fact when reassembling its easier to fit drive gear before closing casesl so ypu don't loose thrust washers.

[Oldiebut goodie]

Ooooeeeerrrrrr!

[maxstu]

Ooooeeeerrrrrr!

Yes. Noted on strip down

Back to that later

[itchyfeet]

^^^^ thats quite common hammered by a bad tappet, I wouldn't worry you are not building a race engine just got to get a runner.

[maxstu]

yes you have to remove oil pump because its held with studs, you could hage removed all 4 studs as an alternative..

No you don't need to take dizzy drive out but I'd have it on the lower side and lift off the oposite side.
in fact when reassembling its easier to fit drive gear before closing casesl so ypu don't loose thrust washers.

Thats where lm going next. Thanks. Should have seen above with new pump in loft