General Technical Questions and Answers last answered over 1 year ago.
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Finally got my bus running last week (after much blood, tears and cash), ran like a dream for a week but now seems to be having hot flushes!
Now when its running (even worse when on tickover) the temp gauge is showing 3/4 of the way and fan only seems to kick in for a min then cuts out- am i just being over dramatic?is this normal?
Thermostats tested ok, ive put a permanent live to the fan and it runs for a few seconds befor shutting off, bled the system through millions of times so i dont think ive got a air lock, wierd thing is the rad dont seem to be getting that hot?
Im pretty new to T25 ownership so any advise would be brill.
when you bled the thing, did you follow the bleeding instructions on wiki? If its a petrol engine, the nose MUST be higher than the engine to bleed properly....
We used Mocki's instructions interpreted as below:
PLEASE IF ANYONE OUT THERE THINKS WE HAVE DONE IT WRONG - PLEASE LET US KNOW!!!!!!
Its a good game - took us a couple of attempts to get it right, but we have now found a hill that does it brill. We found it works best with two - one to rev it, the other to top up the expansion tank (one with pressure cap, not one behind number plate).
Every time we revved it, the level in the tank fell, top up with water. Hubby then held the revs on the accelerator in the engine bay, whilst I watched the bleed screw on rad....when water was coming out, I would rev engine again, while John topped up, then screw lid on BEFORE we dropped the revs. Learnt this after depositing alot of coolant on the floor by dropping revs before putting cap on....
We then did up screw on rad, and let it sit for 5 mins to cool. Then went back and cracked rad screw....air would come out. So back to beginning with the rev and top up routine. keep going till no more air from rad....then go for a drive. Parked up back on hill, cracked screw on rad to see if there was any air....
We have an a reg 2.1. The needle rests just below half way when working, and drops when not underload, with air rushing over rad (nice long downhill stretch)
If you have a diesel, then none of the above is relevant!
Good luck,
Emma
2.1 DJ 1990 Caravelle (died and gone to heaven)
2.0 AGG (1997 ish) 1984 transporter LPG
You shouldnt open any part of the system when its cooling.. it will draw air IN...
after an inital fill and run to remove "gross" air, allow to cool.. then bring back up to temperature before opening anything, this will generate good pressure int he system, then you can crack the rad bleed and the bleed bypass int he engine bay.. make sure the heater matrix is on hot too...
make sure the top up tank has plenty of coolant in it and then allow to cool..
Do this again after a few days running around...
But.. fan coming on means there is hot water at the fan sensor.. so would assume the rad is blocked or airlocked.. is it hot near the sensor? (thats in the lower grill)
, iv tried a new thermostat in and its exactly the same
