Well, it’s taken most of the day and a lot of groveling around in a carpark but, thanks to your excellent advice on where to begin and what to test, I’ve finally made some progress
I started at the front-right headlight, like you said, and traced the live feed back towards the fuse box. Just before the fuse, hidden up under the dash, I found a funny little clip connector that pierces the insulation of the headlamp wire and connects a mysterious black wire to it. This black wire was live, which explains why my headlamp stayed on even with the fuses removed.
Tracing the black wire took absolutely ages and provided lots of entertainment for both my girlfriend and the local community, though not for me

It initially went forward through the bulkhead into the area behind the headlights, then down and back under the van, zig-zagging its way to eventually emerge in the engine bay, where it connects to this funny little grey box:
I’m still not 100% sure what this thing is, but it behaves like a relay, so I’m assuming this is what relays used to look like before they became little plastic boxes? I suspect it’s not original (?), but it’s certainly been there for a long time.
I haven’t managed to trace everything from this relay-thingy yet, but it has a feed from the battery, plus a connection to the black wire linked to my headlamps, and then a connection to some part of the circuit for my reversing lights. As far as I can tell, the points/contacts in this relay have stopped working, so all the circuits are permanently on, instead of switching on when required.
After disconnecting this relay, all my lights are suddenly working properly again

The final puzzle is to figure out why the relay is there in the first place, given that it doesn’t seem to do anything! There a signs on my van that there have previously been additional headlights fitted, plus something at the rear that could have been extra reversing lights (though not sure why you’d want them?). My best guess is therefore that an early owner bodged together some additional lights, which were then removed by a subsequent owner, leaving all the dodgy wiring in place.
Either that or the relay circuit is actually crucial, and I’ll discover that loads of things don’t work as soon as we drive away tomorrow
So everything seems to be fixed well enough to continue our travels, and I’ll investigate the rest once we’re back home. Thanks so much for your advice and support - being pointed in the right direction at the beginning was a massive help

1985 Westfalia Joker high top. Petrol 1.9l DJ auto