Dashboard strip

[slowcoach]

I'm in deep with the dash removal, what fun! Didn't take long to actually get the dash itself out, but the heater box is causing some troubles. I have a stripped screw head I'll need to drill out tomorrow, soon as I go and buy an extra long drill bit (obviously it's one of the two that are tucked up tight behind the brake servo).

Mole grips made easy work of the shear bolts, then dropped the column a few inches to help clear the dash when I lifted it up and out.






I used an impact driver (not the electric type) to whack loose all of the big pozi 1 screws, which worked brilliant. Wham!

Not very filthy behind actually, quite happy.





BUT WHY oh WHY did they bury the motor inside the heater box? :'(

[slowcoach]

Finally the tool that's been in the cellar forever comes into use, for drilling out a screw head with tight access it was my dad's, am sure he said he never used it either!

[itchyfeet]

nice write up

keep it coming, my heater motor is fine but the seals have long gone on the flaps ( snigger) and so I always get cold air if I wan't it or not, love to fix it but removing the dash fills me with dread, dunno why I'm happy to take the engine appart

I think it's just a lack of posts detailing this with pixtures that makes it unknown to me.

[nicq]

It's no where near as bad as it looks, but it is a bit time consuming.

[Jim San]

nice write up

keep it coming, my heater motor is fine but the seals have long gone on the flaps ( snigger) and so I always get cold air if I wan't it or not, love to fix it but removing the dash fills me with dread, dunno why I'm happy to take the engine appart

I think it's just a lack of posts detailing this with pixtures that makes it unknown to me.

I didn't take photos but I did mine week before last. As said, time consuming, especially on your own. I didn't have any rtrouble wit stubborn nuts and bolts. If you planning it, plan ahead and get the penetrating fluid out and get squirting the fixings that are behind the grill over a few days.

I tackled:
heater motor change
Cleaned out fan box
Removed, remade and replaced all (but 2) of the flap foam
Cleaned and tested the radiator (as it looked damaged)
Installed variable Fan motor controller
removed and 'repaired' cab matting
sound deadeing to cab floor
insulation to cab floor
greased wiper motor arms
made mountings for dash tidy
wiring - lots of wiring !!! (setting up feeds to CB, spot lights, USB charging points, night heater etc)
removed crimp connections and soldered and heat shrunk as many as I could - mainly radio
REplaced washer jets - didn't do pipes as it should have been done before refitting the heater box (they felt squiggy enough)

Other than wiring (which gives me the heebeegeebees) its basic enough stuff, just time consuming and tiring getting in and out, walking around, in and out a thousand times!!

[Jim San]

Oh carefully label and and take note of where the heater cables are connected and routed. also note how they are connected to the levers.
As many notes and photos as you need, I thought it all looked @easy enough@ but after pulling stuff about and pushing it all around, the cables were not so obvious all of a sudden. They do head off in a general direction to give you a fair idea but if you are not certain then it all looks a bit UHHH??

[slowcoach]

Out! Luckily it had the clips and not glued, so came apart easily.

Yea I've not addressed the flaps yet. What do people use for those, as a 'Diy' solution?





New motor in, the white line is the new draft stripping to seal the edges. Home stuff you can buy from most DIY shops.



I'm doing the pwm motor controller next, so a little rewiring. I've removed the resistor already, and looks like it'll make for simpler wiring actually.

So, the flaps? I know there's a kit on bw, but must be an alternative option too

[irishkeet]

Hi Slowcoach

Im doing the same job myself, also planning on the replacement controller, watching with interest, will also add some pics to my thread when I get a sec...

was gutted the fan housing does not fit in the wife's slim diswasher planning to hose it down on the weekend, like the strip below the fan motor I have the BW foam kit.

irishkeet

[slowcoach]

Hi Slowcoach

Im doing the same job myself, also planning on the replacement controller, watching with interest, will also add some pics to my thread when I get a sec...

was gutted the fan housing does not fit in the wife's slim diswasher planning to hose it down on the weekend, like the strip below the fan motor I have the BW foam kit.

irishkeet

Ah yah , dish washer has many uses we don't have one though, just went for a wipe down.

I've done the earth crowns, greased the wipers, added some wiring so passenger door trips the courtesy light, and cut out some of the dubious past wiring. I was going to do the washer hose, but it looks ok so I'll just leave it. We have a 4 week old baby now so time isn't on my side!



Got some corrosion here I'll brush and waxoyl.

My master cylinder doesn't look great, but again it's a job for another time. Shame while access is so easy though..

[Jim San]

Hi slow coach, re the foam for the flaps. I found micro foam filter is a very very close match and thickness. I got some from local market as part of a deep fat frier filter kit.

Long noise pliers to ease the clips and remove then i had to use a paint scrapper to slice the old foam of. It's fragile but it will come of in mostly one piece which is good enough to use as a pattern. not to technical, just a time consuming faff. You don't have to be millimeter perfect with your foam.

[slowcoach]

Hi slow coach, re the foam for the flaps. I found micro foam filter is a very very close match and thickness. I got some from local market as part of a deep fat frier filter kit.

Long noise pliers to ease the clips and remove then i had to use a paint scrapper to slice the old foam of. It's fragile but it will come of in mostly one piece which is good enough to use as a pattern. not to technical, just a time consuming faff. You don't have to be millimeter perfect with your foam.

Thanks Jim, I think I'm calling time on it though and hope to put the box back in today. I've used the same draft stripping and stuck it onto the leading edge of each flap, where it makes the seal. Looks like it should work, if it stays stuck down. It's sort of clamped by the plastic flap covers so might be ok. In 7 years I've never had a blower, so anything will put a smile to my face once I hit the go button

The heater panel facia is a perfect fit for the control knob however, one job done!

[slowcoach]

Oh while I remember, look what the resistor has done to the plastic! Can not be a bad idea to get it out of that box!

[Oldiebut goodie]

I never understood the logic of putting a whacking great resistor onto plastic, maybe vauxhall followed thier example!

[slowcoach]

Yeah.. think covkid was right to push this alternative. It's so much simpler and safer.

I've reinstalled the heater box now. Those of us who have the walk through heater ducts on the floor means it's a bit of a pig to get it in and out. I did it without removing it, but it was awkward. Though I don't know what it's like on a van without one, maybe same!



I have this unused connector wrapped up. Anyone have any ideas? It's kind of bundled in toward the binnacle side. I also have front fog lights relayed up, but I removed them when I got rid of the bull bar.



A conversation starter on the kitchen floor. Going to spray it before I put it back in

[CovKid]

Makes no sense to me at all why people replace the resistors. They're inefficient and cost more than a PWM controller. Great pics by the way. Keep it going and I'll add them to the WIKI

Remember to supply the controller from an ignition only feed rather than constant live.

The foam around flaps can be replaced with sheet neoprene. I got mine from a pound shop - think there were eight sheets in the pack in various colours including black.