Heater Control Panel Lights

[crazyhorse]

I decided to do this. It's awful dark in the cab at night. Looked at the wiki

Managed to get panel off, no bulb there, but also no wires going to it. Had a look around nothing. Is there a simple way of running wires to it?? From where to get the feed??

Got the LED kit from CamperVan culture, thats in place, but no wire going to it.

Any help much apprecited

[multisi]

Have a look in your blue haynes manual, look for wiring diagrams page 12.33, its the page for typical lighting switch, the terminal is 58b and the wires are the thin grey/blue wires (gr/bl).

[crazyhorse]

Have a look in your blue haynes manual, look for wiring diagrams page 12.33, its the page for typical lighting switch, the terminal is 58b and the wires are the thin grey/blue wires (gr/bl).

would it be L50 Bulb for air blower switch or L16 fresh air controls light bulb

if its l16 comes from 97, please someone translate, (we all have to start somewhere)

[multisi]

Have a look at the back of the headlight switch, are there any thin blue grey wires ?

[crazyhorse]

Have a look at the back of the headlight switch, are there any thin blue grey wires ?

mmm just had a look. No,

Though the wire from 58b is missing, spade only



would this be the reason??

0.5mm wire 2 female spades, 1 to 58b other to light, and then an earth (brown wire from light to pin no 3 on instrument cluster panel??

[Bubble Meister]

Pretty sure that 58 sidelight output comes out of the light switch and down to a blob with insulation over it. From this blob there is 3 outputs IIRC:
stereo, heater controls and one other which I can't remember. I think it is shown as three adjacent parallel lines in the Haynes manual. The blob is lcoated in the lower steering column cowl, IIRC it has black insulation and is a metallic blob with wires sticking out.

[crazyhorse]

Right,

I got it to work. Quite disappointing after all that effort. Doesnt really make that much difference.

But as a result, my dash lights (well 2 of them) speedo and middle bit dont work. Aaaaarrrgggghhhh. 2 steps forward 2 back. The biggest problem is the pcb is pretty wrecked.

I read somewhere I can bypass pcb for these by getting a feed on the switch itself. Can I do that, What do I need. Will my campervan culture led's work this way. Any advice as always greatfully received



light working (yes I did break handles)



Dash light right working



Dash light left (not working) PCB not in a good way



Middle one... pretty wrecked

[marlinowner]

If one of the lights is working, the easiest fix will be to run wires from that light to the others. If your lights are leds, i assume they are in the right way around, as they will only work in one orientation. I have also had some success with bending the contacts on led lights so they make better contact to the pcb.

[crazyhorse]

If one of the lights is working, the easiest fix will be to run wires from that light to the others. If your lights are leds, i assume they are in the right way around, as they will only work in one orientation. I have also had some success with bending the contacts on led lights so they make better contact to the pcb.

thanks for that.

By doing that, and playing with the one light that works... that one has stopped working now.... why did I bloody bother. Have less light in the dash now than when I started

[marlinowner]

Things always get worse before they get better, i had the instruments out yesterday to look at the speedo and on putting them back the coolant warning light flashed constantly. Eventually fixed by loosening and retightening the nuts which secure the gauge and make contact to the pcb - and they were pretty tight to start with.

[crazyhorse]

Things always get worse before they get better, i had the instruments out yesterday to look at the speedo and on putting them back the coolant warning light flashed constantly. Eventually fixed by loosening and retightening the nuts which secure the gauge and make contact to the pcb - and they were pretty tight to start with.

I hear that.

Faffing about when I should be marking, no joy!!! Bloody hell.

Any suggestions for by passing PCB. All other lights work apart from dash lights.

Can I run a feed from headlight switch, daisy chain, or run 3 separate feeds? Bare in mind as you can imagine I am pretty much a novice as my earlier posts testify

[CovKid]

Ok, I'll chip in as my solution seems to have worked.

Forget the membrane, go buy some 10mm LEDs and 390ohm resistors. You'll find with only a little filing, the LEDs will drop nicely into those holes and since they're not likely to blow in your lifetime you can either leave them as an interference fit or add a small blob of hot glue if you wish. Just tacvk the resistors on and wire them into ignition circuit so they're on all the time when driving (day or night). They only consume milliamps and will illuminate clocks perfectly when you go under tunnels or dark trees. I think the total cost was less than £2.

I opted for green but you can even buy 10mm colour changing LEDs now

[marlinowner]

Just to add that however you end up doing it, connect the three lamps in parallel and you can pick up ignition switched 12v from one of the legs of the voltage regulator on the back of the rev counter / clock (and 0v on another leg).

[crazyhorse]

Ok, I'll chip in as my solution seems to have worked.

Forget the membrane, go buy some 10mm LEDs and 390ohm resistors. You'll find with only a little filing, the LEDs will drop nicely into those holes and since they're not likely to blow in your lifetime you can either leave them as an interference fit or add a small blob of hot glue if you wish. Just tacvk the resistors on and wire them into ignition circuit so they're on all the time when driving (day or night). They only consume milliamps and will illuminate clocks perfectly when you go under tunnels or dark trees. I think the total cost was less than £2.

I opted for green but you can even buy 10mm colour changing LEDs now

ok, thanks for that CovKid

Just to confirm; if I buy 3 10mm LEDS, 3 390 Restitors, do I need to solder them onto leg. (negative or positive??) Place in slot.

Then running wire, I need to go from ignition circuit, where would i do this, would i just run lead from this daisy chaining?? with a spade or solder??

Also what size wire would i get

Sorry want to get it right and the most basic english possible

Thanks again

[CovKid]

The resistor is soldered to longest leg on LED. If it doesn't light, just turn it around and it will. For a feed, I just used a mutimeter on the fusebox until I found one that goes live with key in first position in ignition and wired direct. Not even worth fusing as weakest link will be LEDs anyway. I chose 390ohm because it doesn't over-drive the LED so its lifespan is probably infinite.

I also got rid of dash dimmer (only needed when original bulbs were fitted) and replaced it with a chicken switch for the rad fan

I think for heater control illumination you'll need something like a 3mm or 5mm LED - you'll need to check the room you have. Avoid blue LEDs - they're most unpleasant at night.