Aftermarket central locking.

[bigbadbob76]

I'm considering my options for aftermarket central locking on my bus.
Has anyone had any success fitting a slave actuator in the sliding door?

From searching posts on here and brickyard it seems like a lot of faff.

other options-
1- manual 2 door CL with master actuator in passengers door and slave in drivers door.
This would mean If I reach in and drop the lock on the sliding door from the passengers door then lock that door then the drivers door will lock too.
Also means I can unlock the drivers door without unlocking anything else, more secure methinks.

2- same as 1 but with remote. reckon I'd forget to lock the sliding door if I used the remote. need an actuator in the sliding door for this one.

3- manual 2 door with 2 slave actuators in front doors and a 2 way switch in the sliding door lock, If I lock the sliding door the fronts would lock too.
sounds like a good option too. especially as I often exit through the sliding door. needs 3 door contacts though, from a t4 maybe?

4- Forget the central locking, drop the snibs on the front doors and exit through the slider, locking it behind me. simples.

[RogerT]

I'd go with option 4. But on reflection my choice is governed by my unique circumstances. I have no key for the passenger door, the slider lock is wayyy stiff and shares a key with drivers door so I DON'T want to break that key, and the slider needs a hell of a good slam to shut. So don't listen to me...

[bigbadbob76]

Do you even lock yours Roger?
Mine came from Stornoway and the locks needed a lot of freeing up to get them working, obviously hadn't been used in a long time.

[RogerT]

I do, always, every door! But never lock the house, and rarely lock our other (much higher value) car.

The reason is the van has loads of tools in it as I've only just started using it as a daily driver, and it's still on a shakedown. The other, more important reason is that I've had two people turn up to the house in the last year looking for a T25 that had been advertised for sale here (or so they said). My fear is they were looking for. Andidates to steal. Possible immobilisation techniques would be useful to learn about.

[bigbadbob76]

Aye, we get them here, poking about on the pretext of wanting to buy or sell you something.
Dirty Wickers.
I've looked more into fitting a slave actuator in the sliding door and it's do-able so I think I'll go that route.
The remote controlled "right click" ones have a wire for connection to a relay to give you an immobiliser.
You can use the relay to either-
Cut the fuel pump supply (diesel)
or
Cut the starter relay supply
or
Cut the ignition coil supply (petrol)

As far as I can tell, you need to click the remote in order to mobilise the vehicle.
There's always steering locks or pedal locks of course but that's a lot of faff every morning if it's your daily driver.

[captain Byrne]

I've got a Right Click paired with a TK103B gps tracker. It works pretty well but the quality of wires on the Right Click gear is atrocious. Very brittle and prone to breaking so be advised to swap out the wiring for some decent stuff. Also, fitting an actuator to the sliding door isn't really that difficult.

[bigbadbob76]

Cheers Capt'n.
I'll use my own wire and figure out an actuator lever for the sliding door lock. might need to weld something in.

[craigy345]

Cheers Capt'n.
I'll use my own wire and figure out an actuator lever for the sliding door lock. might need to weld something in.

Just need something like this for the slider

Unknown.jpeg

I would also recommend the upgrading the wiring.
The wiring on these things are very poor (unless you find a good quality kit? - interested if you do?) tend to work fine initially but then corrode up.
The wiring is so thin and becomes brittle after time, just snaps and nightmare to try to repair.

I plan on ripping mine out and replacing with a decent quality kit - if I can find one - Any Recommendations appreciated?

[bigbadbob76]

Aye, I've ordered the contacts for the sliding door.
I'll be relacing the wiring with decent flexible multistrand stuff from work.
Cheap wire leads to no end of problems.

[bigbadbob76]

I started putting the kit in today.
The wiring is actually not bad quality, maybe they've up graded it on the later models.
I'll have to extend both front door runs by 8" or so.
If anyone else is doing the same-
I mounted my control box above the fuse box and ran the wiring through the steel heating ducts.
I found the taped over hole in the door duct and the one in the main heating duct.
Use some plastic sleeving over the wires and grommets in the holes and leave some slack wire between the door and the A pillar.
I started running the sliding door wiring up and over the passengers door using a 2.5mm pull through wire, using the grab handle mounting holes as a half way point, I got it to come out behind the top of the passengers side B pillar.
I'm having a bit of bother getting it down the B pillar though as my headlining is restricting access, might need a stiffer pull through.

[craigy345]

I started putting the kit in today.
The wiring is actually not bad quality, maybe they've up graded it on the later models.
I'll have to extend both front door runs by 8" or so.
If anyone else is doing the same-
I mounted my control box above the fuse box and ran the wiring through the steel heating ducts.
I found the taped over hole in the door duct and the one in the main heating duct.
Use some plastic sleeving over the wires and grommets in the holes and leave some slack wire between the door and the A pillar.
I started running the sliding door wiring up and over the passengers door using a 2.5mm pull through wire, using the grab handle mounting holes as a half way point, I got it to come out behind the top of the passengers side B pillar.
I'm having a bit of bother getting it down the B pillar though as my headlining is restricting access, might need a stiffer pull through.

BBB,
Details of your system? and cost?
I will probably rip mine out and start again if the quality is much better. - Job for the summer list!!!!
My old wiring runs are already in so just a case of pulling through the new wires using the old ones. - hopefully should be much easier than the pain you are going through?
Thanks

[vwbusbits]

i too would be interested in which kit you have gone for. Mins has the factory central locking but the actuators have had it. Was thinking of using my original wiring but replacing the actuators with the ones from a new kit along with the remote.
Will have to keep my eye on this one.

[bigbadbob76]

Sorry, been away south of the wall, just catching up

Kit is "rightclick" 2door Central Lock / Locking Kit Remote Keyless @£25
I also added an extra 2 wire actuator @ £3.95
and the sliding door contacts @ £4.76
Total= £34 ish.
all from their e-bay page.
I might get some more done this weekend with any luck.

[chewbacca]

Any chance of some pictures of those door contacts fitted please?
It's a job I keep putting off but would like to see it done this spring.

[scottbott]

quite fancied central locking myself but if I saw these kits at those prices I would give them a miss as I reckon they must be cheap and nasty at that price,is it just the usual chinese articles being generally really cheap and I am being a bit biased as it does look pretty cheap for what you get