Hardwiring Dash Clocks etc

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boatbuilder
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Hardwiring Dash Clocks etc

Post by boatbuilder »

So last year I make up a circuit board for my dashboard using supplies from Maplin - some veroboard and leds.
I used a computer ATX connector to join it to the loom, soldering all of the ends on the wires.

The problem I'm having now is that the wires needed are so tiny that the ends are snapping off where it joins to the veroboard.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to do this in a more robust way? Has anyone done this job without using veroboard? I've had problems with the copper tracks separating from the veroboard as well.
I've already soldered on the green screw clamp connectors onto the board, but it doesn't solve the problem of fragile wires snapping off or coming lose or the tracks coming away from the board...

Thanks! :ok
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slowcoach
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Re: Hardwiring Dash Clocks etc

Post by slowcoach »

Sorry can't help here really, but just wanted to ask if you've replaced the 14pin multi-plug on the 'van side' of the loom with the atx connector?

I need to rewire mine soon, just wondering if people shy from that or not for any reason :-)
Cheers.!
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captain Byrne
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Re: Hardwiring Dash Clocks etc

Post by captain Byrne »

This is a good long term fix if the tracking has gone at the bendy bit on the connecter end.

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bigbadbob76
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Re: Hardwiring Dash Clocks etc

Post by bigbadbob76 »

I've used veroboard a fair bit and always use pcb pins to solder wires to, or pcb screw terminals and bootlace crimp on ferrules for the wires, the crimp ferrule supports the wire by gripping the insulation as well as the wire strands.

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boatbuilder
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Re: Hardwiring Dash Clocks etc

Post by boatbuilder »

Slow coach yes I cut off the old connector and replaced it with an atx connector. I bought an atx connector with wires already attached so I just had to solder each wire to the correct position.

Bigbadbob those ferrules look like a good job. I already have those exact screw terminals on the board.


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Re: Hardwiring Dash Clocks etc

Post by CovKid »

Plug connector to and from clocks all needs to be robust. The smaller runs from each item to the next on a complete clock hardwire are not so subject to vibration. The ATX plug and socket works well and does at least have some colour coding to it which helps no end. It also gives you extra ways in and out of the clocks for extra indicator LEDS etc. Quality of wire used helps too. Solid core shouldn't be used for one. The terminal ends pictured above are great from plug to board.
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