Hello,
Rain at last here, the temperature in the shade was 28 C at 7.30 pm yesterday....
today its :15..
So, I've been looking in my NOS stock boxes,
and my reclaimable cylinder head collection..
The engine was built up using known good Mahler forged T1 pistons and barrels
with CT heads...
HERESY WARNING...
There is nothing special about using beetle pistons/barrels/heads..apart from changing to W7AC plugs..
The CT druids will tell you that you can only use the proper..(elusive and expensive) 20 fin cylinders..as opposed to the 'common or garden'
19 fin Chinese AAA performance parts....for T1 and 2...at 209€ the set..
The net result of this terrible thing is:
it lets you hold the cylinder stud firmly when releasing the head....remember CT's are all 8mm studs, helicoiled into the block..
The only physical difference is that the CT head is deeper, with one fin extra on the cylinder side.. to allow low compression and make the heads more 'burst proof'. around the spark plug , the top dimensions remain unchanged.
So.. I'm going to fit T1 /2 heads..
All those scared of being burnt at the stake can open their eyes now..
First.. deal with the broken stud..
This is another favourite 'old wives' tale'.... ho ho..yes.. you just weld a nut on.. and hey presto it unwinds..
Given that I do weldy stuff for a living..
we wind on a 15x8 unplated nut on..
preheat till cherry red..
and weld at high intensity:
allowing time to cool.. we try the gentle spanner....
and the stud shears off... like always..(unless you can prove otherwise)..
So.. back to old school..
Fix the cylinder head in a good working position..with an 80 grit flapwheel sand down the remains of the stud.. removing any gasket remains and corrosion..Protect your eyes and wear a mask, as aluminium oxide and lungs do not go well together..
then dot punch slightly offset of centre:
Then drill carefully, using a new bit please, 4 mm, then 6mm,
If you get it right, you will have cut into the thread of the bolt, and with a magnetic pointy thing you can winkle out the rest of the thread..
Then tap at M8..ready for your new stud....USE THREAD LOCKING COMPOUND.
On the subject of studs..
I am fortunate as at work I have access to a complete stock of industrial fasteners.
When I have to make a stud, I use Wurth brand 10.1 BZP bolts. cut down and prepared thus:
This is going to be a crankcase stud..
Which when chamfered and the required depth set with 2 locknuts..
The case is prepared:
and here is the result:
Well I hope that was as good for you as it was for me..
Sorry to seem SkillCentre ish..but I am breaking in a new apprentice.. and we are still at the 'I don't need to listen..'cos I know it all' stage..
Supper time..
Bon appetit,
Cordialement,
