Replacing sleeping boards in a hi-top

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bryan2411
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Replacing sleeping boards in a hi-top

Post by bryan2411 »

Dear all,

I have got a t25 transporter hi-top converstion, but the "upstairs sleeping area" board is drooping a little. I would like to replace it with something which will hold 2 adults, and can obviously be topped with foam and covered with fabric.

What is the best board to use that will take the weight, and how do you get the bloomin thing inside in one piece without taking the hi-top off?????

Does anyone also know where to get the ribbed carpet covering??

Many thanks

Bryan
T25 . Water Cooled, I haven't a clue but I'm trying!!

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The Reverend Pimp Daddy
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Post by The Reverend Pimp Daddy »

If your going to Dubfreeze.........Martim will be there......

http://www.martrim.co.uk/

They sell the spray adhesive also

Good luck with the bed

DiscoDave
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Post by DiscoDave »

18mm ply will hold two adults with ease and shouldn't be too heavy! as for getting it in, just try and git it in however posible!

mark206000
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Post by mark206000 »

Been looking for some of this myself and found Carpetright do a ribbed carpet, rubber backed tho. So some seriously sore hands to de-rubberise it all i fear.

speleobod
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Post by speleobod »

Hi,

if you have the standard high top then your ledge to rest the board on will be anything from 20-30 mm deep. Make your board in two strips around 400-500 mm deep, depending on how thin you are in getting up to roof. This will help getting board up there

Make a frame with 300X50 mm timber on edge and cover with 5mm ply. Only cover the underside of the board i.e the bit you see when sitting 'downstairs' with ribbed contract carpet circa £2.99 metre. Spray stick this and staple edges if you wish. Visit your local DIY for plastic 'L' shaped extrusion to cover staples and tidy and edges. Fix a nice piece of ramin or beech strip on the front edge to tidy and prevent getting carpet burns when scrammbling upstairs and minimising wear on carpet edge.

The reason for not upholstering boards on the upside is that your foam mattress will sweat with or without you on it. The mattress can be aired in the house and if the boards are varnished they can be wiped.

hope this helps.
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lloyd
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Post by lloyd »

Like stated before, 18mm ply. I've used 13mm with a 18x50mm edge dado'ed and glued on to strengthen it. IMHO 5mm is too thin.

Good Luck!

bryan2411
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Many thanks

Post by bryan2411 »

Thankyou to everyone who has replied. I will give it a go!! :D
T25 . Water Cooled, I haven't a clue but I'm trying!!

speleobod
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Post by speleobod »

I was meaning make a frame and cover with 5mm ply. The soft wood frame spares the weight and placed approioriately at 300 mm centres can support the 5mm ply with no probs.
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lloyd
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Post by lloyd »

speleobod wrote:I was meaning make a frame and cover with 5mm ply. The soft wood frame spares the weight and placed approioriately at 300 mm centres can support the 5mm ply with no probs.
Frame ends up a bit thicker when slide back because of the frame. I assume you mean 30mm x 50mm, not 300mm :shock: x 50mm frame pieces? 18mm + mattress vs 55mm plus mattress takes up mores space when slide back too. I've built both ways. No offense intended.

I use baltic birch or beech with each ply being less then 1.5mm thick. 6.5mm is 5 ply, 12mm is 9 ply, 18mm is 13 ply.
Link to one source is: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BIRCH-PLYWOOD-GRA ... 0073771806
seller's site is: http://www.indautimber.co.uk/ so can buy other wood too. I've been using this kind of ply for many years. It's not easy to find, but is great for cabinet and furniture building!

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