1st time service - any useful tips

[Nathanb]

Hi All,

I'm going to attempt my first full service this weekend. Last year I had my garage do it as I also had them put a new exhaust on.

Anyhow I've read up enough to feel comfortable doing it but just wondered if anyone had any handy tips, the kind of stuff that isn't written in the manuals but comes from experience.

My list of jobs for the weekend are:
Change oil
Oil filter
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Ignition leads
Distributor cap
Rotor Arm

Thanks
Nathan

[kevtherev]

Well if your all read up then you know not to over tighten the sump bolt
Use a nice warm engine to empty the oil.
And don't be to embarrassed to ask here when you put the leads back on wrong

[pandp38]

Don't forget to change the gearbox oil also - Make sure you can unscrew the filler plug before draining the oil.

[Bubble Meister]

I'd say you've got it about spot on. I'd take picture of the ht leads before you remove them. As said, you could go the extra and change the gearbox oil - bet it's pretty old now. Make sure you have the correct engine oil - mineral none of that modern synthetic fancy stuff. GL4 for the gearbox.

[itchyfeet]

I'd take picture of the ht leads before you remove them.

yep photograph everything before you touch it and as you remove bits so you can refer to photos if it goes wrong.

post some engine bay pics up and we can comment on anything that obviously needs attention.

Oh and if it's not broke and you don't know what you are doing don't try to fix it

torque wrench on spark plugs and sump plug, don't have one then buy one, need a low range one.

[California Dreamin]

There are so many additional inspection tasks that may lead to necessary repairs, for example i.e.

Strip, examine, clean, re-assemble and adjustment of front/rear brakes...this may not have been done for a few years, so it will be necessary to ensure the brake pads haven't seized into callipers, sliding bolts/pistons are free and wheel cylinders aren't leaking. It's also an ideal time to correctly adjust rear shoe to drum clearance so you have a nice high pedal with the minimum of travel.
Two yearly brake fluid change...absolute must..this should also include bleeding the clutch.
The inspection of hard metal and flexible brake lines.
Engine? if diesel then it will need it's tappet clearances checking and the necessary shim changes to attain; 0.20 - 0.30mm (inlet) 0.40 - 0.50mm (exhaust valves) checked warm.
Wiper blade condition
Battery top-up (if you have removable tops) these have almost gone now.
Fan belt check & replace if necessary
Coolant change (every two years if Blue/Green) or 5 if orange/Pink/Purple long life.
Gear oil (if unknown should be changed)
Cam belt on diesel engines (inspect and if at all suspect, change)
Front wheel bearings...again if unknown, may benefit from a strip/clean (in petrol) re-pack (note taper roller type so do not load)
Checking of rubber fuel lines (it is very common to have dangerous/perished hoses but also check the many overflow sections going to the under wheel arch plastic tanks (8 or so short rubber sections)
Petrol tank inspection (they rot from the top)
Age of your tyres (look for a date stamp and change if 8 years or older)
Front top wishbone rubbers (very prone and should be checked annually) and of course all bushes and ball joints (track rod ends/bottom & top ball joints)
Engine mountings (again very commonly split if older than 6 - 7 years) the rubber to metal bond basically gives way (be careful with your checking as the weight of the engine can often fool the untrained eye into believing that they are intact when they are not)
All bulbs....perhaps need a physical check to see if any have gone black/or silvered.
Blower operation...again common to find a squeeling/churping noise indicating partial seize (something to monitor)
Sliding door bearings...indeed the runner itself that may need cleaning out and re-greasing.
Earth straps, particularly the one on the gearbox nose cone...these disappear to dust as does the short copper braided wire that goes from the starter motors solenoid to the starter body.
Whilst looking at the starter also check the solenoid feed wire (normally a push on spade connector that often goes bad (corrodes) as does the wire itself.
Plus the standard service parts; oil filter (with copper sump washer) Oil (mineral or semi synth 15W40) petrol filter, plugs, air filter, screen wash fluid.
If diesel then Diesel specific oil, diesel filter (oil/fuel/air) cam cover gasket and seals (for when you do the shims)

Martin

[Nathanb]

First off gents, thanks so much for all of the responses. This forum contains so much great knowledge and more importantly people are willing to take time out to respond, even if it is to answer very basic questions that have most likely been asked a number of times before. So thanks once again.

Some great little tips here, which has given me even more confidence to give this a go.

I'll be sure to take lots of reference photos before I tackle each job.
I splashed out on a heavy duty and also a light resistance torque wrenches from Halfords last year, so I'll be sure to go careful on the oil sump plug and spark plugs.

I also made sure to order the sump plug copper washer, when I ordered the oil. I went with Morris Performance Plus 15/40 Multigrade Oil as that's what was used last oil change.

I'm going to read up on the gearbox oil change, as I agree that it wouldn't have been done for a while, so will add this to the list. Good tip about making sure the filler undoes before draining and then finding out I can't fill it again!

Thanks California for the comprehensive job list. I'll definitely complete all of the checks I can. I recently cleaned all of my suspension front and back and at the same time checked all of the bushes etc. which seemed to be in pretty good condition.

The brakes however will need doing. They're braking fine but I'd like to refurb or replace as the back plates are rusting away and the calipers have seen better days.

Thanks
Nathan

[California Dreamin]

Properly adjusted rear brakes (slackening off the hand brake cable till it goes floppy and only then, adjusting the balance bar adjuster until the shoes touch, then reverse adjusting until each drum freely spins) and then finish by taking out the slack in the hand brake cable.
The issue that can arise when: owners/garages, adjust on the cable only (because its easy) which leads to a poor hand brake.

Martin

[Nathanb]

Thanks for the drum brake advice, will keep this in mind when I get around to them.

Here's a picture taken when I was cleaning up the suspension, you can see what I mean about the condition of the front calipers.

[kevtherev]

The outward appearance of the calipers is not an issue at all.
If they do not leak, wear pads unevenly or seize then they are working correctly.
Wire brush them and paint with hammerite if you need them to look tidier.
As the disc gets thinner then under heavy braking the brakes will fade.
So it has a value that you can measure.

[multisi]

Looks like somebody has power washed or steam cleaned the chassis ! NOT GOOD ! That black stuff is the anti corrosion wax thats applied at the factory , not dirt. Also water will have been forced into places that take time to dry out. When its dry get some wax protection back on there ASAP.

[California Dreamin]

As Kev say's, its not so much their external looks you have to worry about as their actual function. It is good practice to annually strip/clean/re-grease/re-assemble front brakes, mainly to ensure that pads/sliding pins and pistons aren't seizing.
Changing your brake fluid should also be a high priority if it wasn't done on that initial service. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water from the moisture in the air) not only does this lead to significantly lowering the brake fluids boiling point (3% contamination lowers the boiling point around 90C) but equally disturbing is the water ingress that promotes piston to caliper corrosion and subsequent seizing.

New DOT 4 boils around 240C, so taking off 90C through contamination reduces this (wet boiling point) to around 150C. Putting this into context; temperatures that cause Vapalock are very easily reached (total loss off brake pedal due to gaseous bubble formation in the fluid)
DOT 4 brake fluid has to be changed every two years regardless of miles travelled.

Martin

[Nathanb]

My list just got longer

I'll tackle my initial service list tomorrow and let you know how I get on.
Next I'll Waxoyl the underneath and then look to clean/tackle the brakes.

[Bubble Meister]

There is lots of advice and it's probably a bit overwhelming. I would carry out the basic service you mentioned and then stagger the others into manageable groups of tasks. You can then start to build up a preventative maintenance plan. (Mine is based on the recommended service plan in Haynes).
I'm a true believer in preventative maintenence. After 16 yrs of owning the van I have had the RAC out only twice. Normally she gives good warning that she's not feeling too well!

[California Dreamin]

Trouble is, MOST of my list (the visual checks, not the actual repair tasks) is/was part of a standard VW main service. 90% of a service is inspection and report,thus spotting developing faults and wear.
Changing: oil/oil filter, air filter, petrol filter and spark plugs ...is what I would class as an engine service only. So don't talk yourself into thinking that's all that's needed.
Be sure to carry out the 'safety checks' to brakes/steering/suspension/lights/fuel system etc as these are really important part of the yearly check.


Martin