AAZ idle adjustment, and a manual.

[Blaizefed]

Hey guys, I have just done an AAZ swap and its idling up around 11-1200. Not the end of the world, but worth correcting. however despite my best efforts I cannot seem to find anyone who can give me a straight answer as to how to adjust it. My throttle linkage is loose at idle, so not pretensioning anything. I have Baxster's linkage fitted, but did not disturb the lower linkage parts when fitting it (as per his instructions). and with the engine running, applying pressure to the throttle arm towards idle, has no effect. That is to say it has a bit of movement (but doesn't actually contact the external idle stop screw), but the idle doesn't change. Seems to me one of the adjustment screws must be an idle screw right? I have heard mention that the "see saw" looking thing on the upper side (as fitted to a t25) of the pump has something to do with it? I haven't tried anything yet, but mine only has a screw on the rear (again as fitted, relative to the bus), mind you thats the side the spring holds it up against. And the electrical solenoid on the lower side, where the cold start valve on a JX pump is, is disconnected, and on the shelf in my garage, but its a timing retard device for emissions right? I did pop the throttle cable off just to be sure its not preloading anything, that made no difference. It idles at about 950 cold, and is up to 1100-1200 within a minute of starting. My pump number is 0 460 494 308 (just in case your reading this Baxster). So any ideas?

And along those lines, is there a Bosch VE pump manual anyone knows of worth owning? I really don't want to buy a haynes manual for a late 90's golf, only to find it tells me to go to the dealer for injection pump adjustments....... Is there a PDF manual anywhere? or a physical book worth owning (I would actually prefer a real book). Anyone know of one?

As ever, thanks for any help

[Oldiebut goodie]

PM me your email address - I have a VE technical instruction manual if you want a copy.
The idle is altered via one of the 2 stops for the cold start mechanism (nothing to do with emissions) - can't remember which one offhand, I think the one furthest away when you are looking at the engine. Nothing to do with the throttle. Put the original cold start cable back on instead of the one that came with the replacement engine (the one that you have put on the shelf) - that is what I did with the cold start on my 1Y.