Exhaust replacement, 1.9 watercooled, petrol 1990 (H)

[5iggy]

Hi People,

I'm considering replacing the complete exhaust system on my Holdsworth camper which has lasted best part of 20 years, thing worrying me is the possibility of stripping the engine studs.
Is it just a case of coating the nuts with WD40 over and over to ease these buggers off?

Don't really fancy the prospect of the extra cost after cocking things up!

I purchased a stainless steel system over a year ago (Justkampers) and the time has come to fit the beast - I was considering taking it to a garage to have it done but want to have the ability to fit some of it myself. (She's been part of our family for over 25 years now)

Any tips or advice on this topic would be much appreciated.

Many thanks,

Dave.

[Ian Hulley]

WD40 is a lubricant and Water Dispersant NOT a penetrating oil ... it's better than nothing but only just.

Welcome to the forum

Ian

[jrt]

Afternoon, welcome aboard , only done the silencer and tailpipe on mine, used plenty of plusgas and heat
David

[5iggy]

Thanks Gents,

Did the tailpipe several times over the years and the silincer about 5 years ago, quite easy on mine.

I'd be happy if the local garage would just slacken off the nuts on the studs, but alas, can't really drive it home with the exhaust part disconnected.

Thanks again,

Dave.

[jrt]

Put your location on your posts and someone nearby will recommend somewhere close to you that has experience of changing a full system. As you've already got the replacement I would get someone with experience to fit it and let them worry about any snapped stud problems that may occur. Then again as far as rusted nuts and bolts are concerned I'm a bit of a pessimist. Still if you feel confident, go for it
David

[Ian Hulley]

I'd be happy if the local garage would just slacken off the nuts on the studs, but alas, can't really drive it home with the exhaust part disconnected.

Yes, it would be nice wouldn't it ... Hello my good man, you do all the hard work and here's a shiny shilling for your trouble ... I'll carry on and save myself a fortune

Sadly that's always the part where things turn ugly, snapped off studs, stripped threads, tears before bedtime.

Ian

[5iggy]

Thanks,
Just updated the profile to show the location here.

Hardly a "shiny shilling" these days, more like £49.50 per hour excluding the VAT!

And is loosening a few nuts seen as "hard work" these days?!



Dave.

[Ian Hulley]

And is loosening a few nuts seen as "hard work" these days?!



Dave.

Well Dave, I guess you will be able to answer that for yourself in a few days I hope all goes well

Ian

[Smosh]

Thanks,
Just updated the profile to show the location here.

Hardly a "shiny shilling" these days, more like £49.50 per hour excluding the VAT!

And is loosening a few nuts seen as "hard work" these days?!



Dave.

Haha, if not why aren't u doing it! :p

Welcome to the forum. I am in a Similar place with my exhaust. The way I look at it I would rather have a go, using plenty of plus gas and heat, and if they shear and I can't retrieve them pay for help. Otherwise you are paying regardless! If u have time, give them a knock with a hammer to break the rust bond and spray with penetrating oil daily for a week or two before tackling it!

Welcome to the forum. Got any pics?

[5iggy]

And is loosening a few nuts seen as "hard work" these days?!



Dave.

Well Dave, I guess you will be able to answer that for yourself in a few days I hope all goes well

Ian

Yes most certinly will, but not for £49.50 + VAT, thank you for the 'help'

[Ian Hulley]

Dave, it may be of help to note that it can turn VERY nasty really quickly, snapped off studs, stripped threads, paying someone to drill out studs or insert helicoils, knackering heads, snapped head studs leading to scrapped engines ..... that's the truth.

Hopefully yours won't go that way ... but they can. Try a search of the Forum for 'exhaust stud' or similar and pull up a chair

Cheers, Ian.

[blacky]

It may be advantageous to drill into the nuts on one side just enough to avoid damaging the stud thread ( though a midges dicky wont hurt ) to weaken the wall on one side whereby it may just break through, or a tap with a good quality sharp chisel will possibly persuade it to split then you can run a die nut up the stud if needed and fit new nuts
That way you're not putting any strain on the stud whatsoever. Though I do agree with the earlier post that these jobs can very easily escalate

[dumbo]

its a pain yes....but you should have been spraying exhaust nuts for a few days and then have a go?? like they said crack the rust ie tighten them up first/or tap with hammer good luck mate

[kevtherev]

heat... plus gas
man up.

[Mark Foss]

I am planning to renew my exhaust system sometime this year and it's a task I am dreading! My studs look like rats turds! Hope to make the task easier by removing engine and working on it from a bench. Loads more access and can chop of most of the old system with a grinder. Give the studs a good wire brushing loads of penetrating oils etc get the oxy/acet going and fingers crossed.

Might seem extreme but it's the only way I would tackle it with the state they are in. Whilst it's out I can do loads of other tasks like replace clutch and a few bits of pipework/seals etc

Out of curiosity did your stainless system from JK have a brand like Ernst? Currently looking at Brickwerks and Speedshop systems. Would consider mild steel from GSF with a mega weekend saving as long as my studs where renewed.